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| Meta Title | Valentino Garavani, Couturier to the Stars, Has Died at 93 | Vogue |
| Meta Description | Valentino Garavani, the Roman couturier who launched his label in 1960 and found worldwide fame dressing European royals, American first ladies, and celebrities, has died. He was 93. |
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| Boilerpipe Text | Valentino Garavani, the Roman couturier who launched his label in 1960 and found worldwide fame dressing European royals, American first ladies, and stars of the day, has died at his home in Rome. He was 93.
With his exacting pattern-making, signature hue of
poppy red
, and eye for feminine details like bows, ruffles, lace, and embroideries, Valentino was one of the key architects of late 20th century glamour. Valâs Gals, as his coterie was often called, included Elizabeth Taylor,
Audrey Hepburn
, and Sophia Loren. Jackie Kennedy wore a white gown of Valentinoâs creation for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis, and decades later the designer interpreted a mint green gown he had made for the former first lady in 1967 for Jennifer Lopezâs appearance at the 2003 Oscars. In 2001 Julia Roberts accepted her Best Actress award for
Erin Brokovich
in a vintage black and white Valentino gown.
In 2009, The designer was the subject of the Matt Tyrnauer-directed
documentary
,
Valentino: The Last Emperor
, which followed the designer, his career-long business partner Giancarlo Giammetti, and his entourage in the two years leading up to his retirement. In the film, Valentino tells a reporter: âI know what women want, they want to be beautiful,â a 10-word summation of the aesthetic that had turned him into a multimillionaire.
In the years after his retirement in 2008, which was feted with a three-day extravaganza in Rome, Valentino hardly faded from public view. He could be found many seasons sitting in the front row of Parisâs Hotel de Rothschild, taking in the latest collection from creative directors Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, the latter of whom
decamped for Christian Dior
in 2016. Valentino was so moved by Piccioliâs haute couture collection for
fall 2018
that he stood for an ovation, tears rolling down his tanned cheeks.
When he wasnât cheering on the designers who inherited his label, Garavani could often be seen on Instagram, hosting glamorous parties at his French estate Wideville or on his yacht TM Blue One, rarely without his brood of pugs in tow.
âMy last memory of Valentino is watching him delighting in Alessandro Micheleâs first collection for Valentino,â says Anna Wintour, Global Chief Content Officer and Artistic Director at CondĂ© Nast and Global Editorial Director of
Vogue
. âThis was over FaceTime on Giancarlo Giammettiâs phone. Delight is a word I associate so completely with Valentino. He was always the best company, always a perfect host. He adored his extraordinary clients and led the life they didâand so he totally understood their needs. His manners were impeccable. He was breathtakingly polite, admiring, and generous. Yes, he was of a certain world, but not boxed in by it. His clothes were effortless, feminine, and delightful (that word again). And in all things he was guided, protected, and adored by his lifelong friend and partner, Giancarloâa true keeper of the flame.â
Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani was born in Voghera, Italy, on May 11, 1932. He decided on design as his mĂ©tier early on and enrolled at the Accademia dellâArte in Milan where he studied fashion and French. Pursuing his ambition, at 17 Garavani moved to Paris to attend the Ăcole des Beaux Arts and the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Post-studies, he assisted Jean DessĂ©s, a Greek designer known for his pleated evening dresses, and Guy Laroche, a Frenchman with a sportier aesthetic.
After a year spent working alongside the noted beauty Princess Irene Galitzine, who popularized elegant evening pajamas, Garavani set out on his own with the backing of his father and a family friend, establishing his maison, circa 1959, on Romeâs Via Condotti. âIt was
une maison de couture,
â explained Giammettiâwho met Garavani soon afterâin an interview with
Vanity Fair.
âI say it in French because it was very much on the line of what he had seen in Paris⊠Everything was very grand already. Models flew from Paris for his first show. Italian fashion was very limited at the time. There were a few good designers, but just a few.â
With Giammetti at his side, Valentino became one of the very best, despite the fact that within a year he was facing bankruptcy. He blamed his âchampagne tastes,â and the pair soon vacated Via Condotti and moved to a smaller space in a 16th-century palazzo on the Via Gregoriana.
The press, initially interested in Valentino as a budding talent and handsome new face, soon had more incentive to pay attention to this young designer: his celebrity pull. In 1961, the violet-eyed Elizabeth Taylor, in town to shoot
Cleopatra
, chose a white haute couture column by Valentino to wear to the premiere of
Spartacus.
The designerâs All White couture collection of 1968 is the one that set him solidly in the firmature of Italian design.
Vogue
declared it âthe talk of Europe,â and waxed lyrical about âthe cleanliness and distinction of his crisp whites, his lacy whites, his soft and creamy whites, all shown together white on white. And all triumphs for the thirty-five-year-old designer who, pouring out all this beauty, romance, and perfection, has become the idol of the young, a new symbol of modern luxury.â Some of these marvels were photographed by the magazine in Cy Twomblyâs Roman apartment on Marisa Berenson, who, as a granddaughter of Elsa Schiaparelli, qualified as fashion royalty.
Despite the white collectionâs historical importance, the designer will forever be associated with the color red, and not just any shade, but a sparkling crisp Valentino red that speaks of Italy, passion, religion, lust, and love.
âEverything,â he once said, âis made to attract, seduce, entrance.â As alluring a woman wearing Valentino might be, however, she was above all and unmistakably a lady.
There is a certain polish and formality to Valentinoâs work that speaks to an earlier age of glamour and the beginnings of the jet set, which is now a thing of the past. The
dream
of the good life never gets old, however, and the lure of the brand was, in part, its link to the lives of âthe rich and famous,â an A-list crowd of which Valentino was a member. It should be noted that formality is not synonymous with modesty; evening dresses with lingerie touches were a part of Garavaniâs repertoire, and he appreciated a lovely decolletage. Also abs: dresses with tastefully placed cut-outs were another specialty that appealed to the fit and fabulous.
Casual was always a relative term in Valentinoâs worldâthe designer even looked put-together in that famous paparazzi pic taken in Capri in 1970 with a barefoot Jackie O. His signature look was a perfect coif, a rich tan, and a suit. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who joined the house in 2008 (and who dared to wear flip-flops to the office) remembers that the air conditioning was on full blast in the offices all summer so that the staff could wear suits. âI was happy that I arrived there when I was all grown up,â Piccioli told
Vogue
in 2019. âValentino was formalâvery, very formal. There was a ritual, and I liked that.â
Although Valentino was producing ready-to-wear from the categoryâs earliest days in the 1960s it was elevated rather than laid-back. âIf anyone can approximate haute couture detailing in ready-to-wear, it is he,
Vogue
critic Sarah Mower noted decades on.
Though Garavani has expressed his dislike for 1980s fashions,
Vogue
wrote that the business soared at the time; reporting that âin 1986, Valentino was Italyâs top fashion exporter, shipping some $385 million that year.â If the Valentino aesthetic was the polar opposite of grunge that dominated so much of the â90s, it was extremely relevant to the celebrity culture that started to take off in that decade. This shift benefited âVa-Vaâ greatly, and he racked up major red-carpet credits.
Like the celebrities he dressed, Garavani was himself a star. As Piccioli once put it: âValentino was the brand himself.â And the designer lived the life he designed for. Long after his retirement, Garavani remained an arbiter of taste and decorum and a paradigm of success. He lived his life in pursuit of beauty. âI loved working with him,â Piccioli told
Vogue.
âI loved to hear him talking about his dreams of a dress drawn with one line.â Long may his dreams live.
The lying in state will be held at PM23 in Piazza Mignanelli 23 in Rome on January 21 and 22, and a funeral will take place on January 23 at the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, in Piazza della Repubblica 8 in Rome, at 11 am.
âIncisively black-and-white with a crunch of jet and strass-fumĂ©e embroideryâ is how
Vogue
described Valentinoâs zebra-stamped calfskin blazer.
Photographed by Leombruno-Bodi ,
Vogue,
March 15, 1963
Princess Luciana Pignatelli wears an âevening coat
folie
in white ostrich, white minkâmost glorious way to arrive at a party since sedan-chairs went out. By Valentino, it opens over his long bias-cut white crepe dress.â
Photographed by Henry Clarke,
Vogue,
November 15, 1964
Valentino's âArt Nouveau pyjamasâ photographed against the tapestries in Marchesa Valeria Littaâs apartment in Rome.
Photographed by David Bailey,
Vogue,
April 1965
Marisa Berenson takes in the view of Capri from the rooftop of Veneiro Colasanti and John Mooreâs Studio wearing a stunning Valentino look: âwhite silk branching out into a thousand red leaves and unleashing a great panel train over red crepe pants.â
Photographed by Arnaud de Rosnay,
Vogue,
January 1, 1968
Photographed in Cy Twomblyâs apartment in Rome, âValentinoâs whiteâthe talk of Europe. The cleanliness and distinction of his crisp white, his lacy whites, his soft and creamy whites, all shown together white on white. And all, trimumphs,â reported
Vogue,
âfor the thirty-five-year-old designer who, pouring out all this beauty, romance, and perfection, has become an idol of the young, a new symbol of modern luxuryâŠ.â
Photographed by Henry Clarke,
Vogue,
March 15, 1968
Photographed in the Palazzo Borghese apartment of Agnese Bruguier big evening looks by Valentino. At left, Madame Philippe Leroy and Jean Claude de Luca in black velvet, and at right, the designerâs âDelft porcelain showstoppers âŠsensational in their silk luxuriousness.â
Photographed by Henry Clarke,
Vogue,
September 15, 1968
Ann Turkel wears Valentinoâs âutterly feminine dressâŠa long black drift of gazarâfull of movementâbordered with white organdie flamenco flounces.â
Photographed by Gianni Penati,
Vogue,
March 15, 1969
Claudia Cardinale in Valentinoâs âtiers and tiers of clean white organza floating over languorous coral-silk pants.â
Photographed by Gianni Penati,
Vogue,
April 1, 1969
The sun sets in the Piazza di San Giorgio al Velabro and Verushcka is ready for the eveningâs festivities in Valentinoâs sashed blue-and-white jumpsuit .
Photographed by Franco Rubartelli,
Vogue,
April 1, 1969
âValentino does it againâand again! One great lookâone great ponchoâafter another, Like this long, belted beige wool with flings of lynx and a short charmeuse-collared wool dress underneath.â
Photographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri,
Vogue,
September 15, 1969
Photographed by the Arch of Constantine, âone of the most beautiful coats you could own: double-faced wool printed in navy-and-white Positano foulard designs, the scarf patterns laid side by side and row upon row with absolute perfection. Belted in navy, buttoned in navy, and everything else in navy to matchâthe large straw hat, the stockings, the shoes.â
Photographed by Henry Clarke,
Vogue,
March 15, 1970
Tailoring, with panache, from Valentino.
Photographed by Helmut Newton,
Vogue,
September 15, 1971
Richard Burton with Elizabeth Taylor âin black taffeta and lace by Valentino, a coiffure by Alexandre, and a mintâs worth of diamonds and emeralds.â
Photographed by Cecil Beaton,
Vogue,
January 15, 1972
âAt Valentinoâclothes drenched in feminine nuances.... A cascade of luscious pink pearls on a ravishing ivory chiffon-and-lace chemise; right, a fluttery pink silk rose at the waist of a daring black chiffon dress.â
Photographed by Helmut Newton,
Vogue,
Match 15, 1972
Paulina Porizkova makes a splash in in Valentinoâs maillot-inspired body-con dresses.
Photographed by Irving Penn,
Vogue,
March 1985
In white velvet and rhinestones Carolyn Murphy, in Valentino Haute Couture, displays a âdaring dĂ©colletage.â
Photographed by Steven Mesiel ,
Vogue,
October 1998
Maggie Rizer vamps in an inky look from a Valentino Haute Couture collection that was âall about temptation.â Embroidered lace top and double organza skirt with ostrich fringe.
Photographed by Craig McDean,
Vogue,
October 2002
Gisele BĂŒndchen in goddess mode, the Valentino way: Chiffon top, pants, and shorts.
Photographed by Steven Klein,
Vogue,
March 2003
Cameron Diaz gets carried away in a taffeta Valentino Haute Couture gown with corset bodice.
Photographed by Annie Leibovitz,
Vogue,
May 2003
Nicole Kidman in a vintage Valentino cape over a white beaded tulle dress from the designerâs 2004 Haute Couture collection.
Photographed by Irving Penn,
Vogue,
May 2004
Jennie Runk in Valentino red.
Photographed by Steven Meisel,
Vogue,
April 2005
Liya Kebede in Valentinoâs black silk and white lace dress.
Photographed by Arthur Elgort,
Vogue,
March 2006
Caroline Trentini in âValentinoâs Goya-esque 1985 dress with a feathered lace back, shirred velvet waist, gathered duchesse satin skirt, and tulle train is âonly about making a woman look and feel beautiful.â â
Photographed by Irving Penn,
Vogue,
March 2007
Valentino Garavani.
Photographed by Horst P. Horst,
Vogue,
April 15, 1970
Gwyneth Paltrow and Valentino Garavani at the Venice Film Festival, 2002.
 Photo: Pascal Le Segretain / Getty Images
Marie-Chantal Miller with Valentino Garavani at the Costume Institute Gala, 2001.
Photo: Evan Agostini / Getty Images
Halle Berry in Valentino at the Golden Globe Awards, 2002.
Photo: Vince Bucci / Getty Images
Valentino Garavani and and Oprah Winfrey, 1996.
Photo: Richard Corkery / NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images
Valentino Garavani, 1970.
Photo: Ron Galella / Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images
Oscar winner Cate Blanchett in Valentino, 2005.
Photo: Kevin Winter / Getty Images
Anne Hathaway and Valentino Garavani at the Oscars, 2011.
Photo: John Shearer / Getty Images
Oscar-winner Julia Roberts in Valentino, 2001.
Photo: Frank Trapper / Corbis via Getty ImagesÂ
Jennifer Lopez, in Valentino, with Ben Affleck at the Academy Awards, 2003.
Photo: Frank Trapper / Corbis via Getty Images
Valentino Garavani and Jacqueline Kennedy, 1970.
Photo: Bettmann
Valentino Garavani and pugs, 1990s.
Photo: Archivio APG / Mondadori via Getty Images
Valentino Garavani in Rome, 1991.
Photo: Gianni Giansanti / Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Golden Globe winner Halle Berry in Valentino, 2000.
Photo: Ron Galella / Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images |
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# Valentino Garavani, Couturier to the Stars, Has Died at 93
By [Laird Borrelli-Persson](https://www.vogue.com/contributor/laird-borrelli-persson)
January 19, 2026

Marie-Chantal Miller with Valentino Garavani at the Costume Institute Gala, 2001.Photo: Evan Agostini / Getty Images
Save this story
Save this story
Valentino Garavani, the Roman couturier who launched his label in 1960 and found worldwide fame dressing European royals, American first ladies, and stars of the day, has died at his home in Rome. He was 93.
With his exacting pattern-making, signature hue of [poppy red](https://www.vogue.com/article/happy-90-birthday-valentino-garavani-a-red-dress-celebration), and eye for feminine details like bows, ruffles, lace, and embroideries, Valentino was one of the key architects of late 20th century glamour. Valâs Gals, as his coterie was often called, included Elizabeth Taylor, [Audrey Hepburn](https://www.vogue.com/tag/celebrity/audrey-hepburn), and Sophia Loren. Jackie Kennedy wore a white gown of Valentinoâs creation for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis, and decades later the designer interpreted a mint green gown he had made for the former first lady in 1967 for Jennifer Lopezâs appearance at the 2003 Oscars. In 2001 Julia Roberts accepted her Best Actress award for *Erin Brokovich* in a vintage black and white Valentino gown.
In 2009, The designer was the subject of the Matt Tyrnauer-directed [documentary](https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/best-fashion-documentaries), *Valentino: The Last Emperor*, which followed the designer, his career-long business partner Giancarlo Giammetti, and his entourage in the two years leading up to his retirement. In the film, Valentino tells a reporter: âI know what women want, they want to be beautiful,â a 10-word summation of the aesthetic that had turned him into a multimillionaire.
In the years after his retirement in 2008, which was feted with a three-day extravaganza in Rome, Valentino hardly faded from public view. He could be found many seasons sitting in the front row of Parisâs Hotel de Rothschild, taking in the latest collection from creative directors Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, the latter of whom [decamped for Christian Dior](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/christian-dior) in 2016. Valentino was so moved by Piccioliâs haute couture collection for [fall 2018](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-couture/valentino) that he stood for an ovation, tears rolling down his tanned cheeks.
When he wasnât cheering on the designers who inherited his label, Garavani could often be seen on Instagram, hosting glamorous parties at his French estate Wideville or on his yacht TM Blue One, rarely without his brood of pugs in tow.
âMy last memory of Valentino is watching him delighting in Alessandro Micheleâs first collection for Valentino,â says Anna Wintour, Global Chief Content Officer and Artistic Director at CondĂ© Nast and Global Editorial Director of *Vogue*. âThis was over FaceTime on Giancarlo Giammettiâs phone. Delight is a word I associate so completely with Valentino. He was always the best company, always a perfect host. He adored his extraordinary clients and led the life they didâand so he totally understood their needs. His manners were impeccable. He was breathtakingly polite, admiring, and generous. Yes, he was of a certain world, but not boxed in by it. His clothes were effortless, feminine, and delightful (that word again). And in all things he was guided, protected, and adored by his lifelong friend and partner, Giancarloâa true keeper of the flame.â
Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani was born in Voghera, Italy, on May 11, 1932. He decided on design as his mĂ©tier early on and enrolled at the Accademia dellâArte in Milan where he studied fashion and French. Pursuing his ambition, at 17 Garavani moved to Paris to attend the Ăcole des Beaux Arts and the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Post-studies, he assisted Jean DessĂ©s, a Greek designer known for his pleated evening dresses, and Guy Laroche, a Frenchman with a sportier aesthetic.
After a year spent working alongside the noted beauty Princess Irene Galitzine, who popularized elegant evening pajamas, Garavani set out on his own with the backing of his father and a family friend, establishing his maison, circa 1959, on Romeâs Via Condotti. âIt was *une maison de couture,*â explained Giammettiâwho met Garavani soon afterâin an interview with *Vanity Fair.* âI say it in French because it was very much on the line of what he had seen in Paris⊠Everything was very grand already. Models flew from Paris for his first show. Italian fashion was very limited at the time. There were a few good designers, but just a few.â
With Giammetti at his side, Valentino became one of the very best, despite the fact that within a year he was facing bankruptcy. He blamed his âchampagne tastes,â and the pair soon vacated Via Condotti and moved to a smaller space in a 16th-century palazzo on the Via Gregoriana.
The press, initially interested in Valentino as a budding talent and handsome new face, soon had more incentive to pay attention to this young designer: his celebrity pull. In 1961, the violet-eyed Elizabeth Taylor, in town to shoot *Cleopatra*, chose a white haute couture column by Valentino to wear to the premiere of *Spartacus.*
The designerâs All White couture collection of 1968 is the one that set him solidly in the firmature of Italian design. *Vogue* declared it âthe talk of Europe,â and waxed lyrical about âthe cleanliness and distinction of his crisp whites, his lacy whites, his soft and creamy whites, all shown together white on white. And all triumphs for the thirty-five-year-old designer who, pouring out all this beauty, romance, and perfection, has become the idol of the young, a new symbol of modern luxury.â Some of these marvels were photographed by the magazine in Cy Twomblyâs Roman apartment on Marisa Berenson, who, as a granddaughter of Elsa Schiaparelli, qualified as fashion royalty.
Despite the white collectionâs historical importance, the designer will forever be associated with the color red, and not just any shade, but a sparkling crisp Valentino red that speaks of Italy, passion, religion, lust, and love.
âEverything,â he once said, âis made to attract, seduce, entrance.â As alluring a woman wearing Valentino might be, however, she was above all and unmistakably a lady.
There is a certain polish and formality to Valentinoâs work that speaks to an earlier age of glamour and the beginnings of the jet set, which is now a thing of the past. The *dream* of the good life never gets old, however, and the lure of the brand was, in part, its link to the lives of âthe rich and famous,â an A-list crowd of which Valentino was a member. It should be noted that formality is not synonymous with modesty; evening dresses with lingerie touches were a part of Garavaniâs repertoire, and he appreciated a lovely decolletage. Also abs: dresses with tastefully placed cut-outs were another specialty that appealed to the fit and fabulous.
Casual was always a relative term in Valentinoâs worldâthe designer even looked put-together in that famous paparazzi pic taken in Capri in 1970 with a barefoot Jackie O. His signature look was a perfect coif, a rich tan, and a suit. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who joined the house in 2008 (and who dared to wear flip-flops to the office) remembers that the air conditioning was on full blast in the offices all summer so that the staff could wear suits. âI was happy that I arrived there when I was all grown up,â Piccioli told *Vogue* in 2019. âValentino was formalâvery, very formal. There was a ritual, and I liked that.â
Although Valentino was producing ready-to-wear from the categoryâs earliest days in the 1960s it was elevated rather than laid-back. âIf anyone can approximate haute couture detailing in ready-to-wear, it is he, *Vogue* critic Sarah Mower noted decades on.
Though Garavani has expressed his dislike for 1980s fashions, *Vogue* wrote that the business soared at the time; reporting that âin 1986, Valentino was Italyâs top fashion exporter, shipping some \$385 million that year.â If the Valentino aesthetic was the polar opposite of grunge that dominated so much of the â90s, it was extremely relevant to the celebrity culture that started to take off in that decade. This shift benefited âVa-Vaâ greatly, and he racked up major red-carpet credits.
Like the celebrities he dressed, Garavani was himself a star. As Piccioli once put it: âValentino was the brand himself.â And the designer lived the life he designed for. Long after his retirement, Garavani remained an arbiter of taste and decorum and a paradigm of success. He lived his life in pursuit of beauty. âI loved working with him,â Piccioli told *Vogue.* âI loved to hear him talking about his dreams of a dress drawn with one line.â Long may his dreams live.
*The lying in state will be held at PM23 in Piazza Mignanelli 23 in Rome on January 21 and 22, and a funeral will take place on January 23 at the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, in Piazza della Repubblica 8 in Rome, at 11 am.*

âIncisively black-and-white with a crunch of jet and strass-fumĂ©e embroideryâ is how *Vogue* described Valentinoâs zebra-stamped calfskin blazer.Photographed by Leombruno-Bodi , *Vogue,* March 15, 1963

Princess Luciana Pignatelli wears an âevening coat *folie* in white ostrich, white minkâmost glorious way to arrive at a party since sedan-chairs went out. By Valentino, it opens over his long bias-cut white crepe dress.âPhotographed by Henry Clarke, *Vogue,* November 15, 1964

Valentino's âArt Nouveau pyjamasâ photographed against the tapestries in Marchesa Valeria Littaâs apartment in Rome.Photographed by David Bailey, *Vogue,* April 1965

Marisa Berenson takes in the view of Capri from the rooftop of Veneiro Colasanti and John Mooreâs Studio wearing a stunning Valentino look: âwhite silk branching out into a thousand red leaves and unleashing a great panel train over red crepe pants.âPhotographed by Arnaud de Rosnay, *Vogue,* January 1, 1968

Photographed in Cy Twomblyâs apartment in Rome, âValentinoâs whiteâthe talk of Europe. The cleanliness and distinction of his crisp white, his lacy whites, his soft and creamy whites, all shown together white on white. And all, trimumphs,â reported *Vogue,* âfor the thirty-five-year-old designer who, pouring out all this beauty, romance, and perfection, has become an idol of the young, a new symbol of modern luxuryâŠ.âPhotographed by Henry Clarke, *Vogue,* March 15, 1968

Photographed in the Palazzo Borghese apartment of Agnese Bruguier big evening looks by Valentino. At left, Madame Philippe Leroy and Jean Claude de Luca in black velvet, and at right, the designerâs âDelft porcelain showstoppers âŠsensational in their silk luxuriousness.âPhotographed by Henry Clarke, *Vogue,* September 15, 1968

Ann Turkel wears Valentinoâs âutterly feminine dressâŠa long black drift of gazarâfull of movementâbordered with white organdie flamenco flounces.âPhotographed by Gianni Penati, *Vogue,* March 15, 1969

Claudia Cardinale in Valentinoâs âtiers and tiers of clean white organza floating over languorous coral-silk pants.âPhotographed by Gianni Penati, *Vogue,* April 1, 1969

The sun sets in the Piazza di San Giorgio al Velabro and Verushcka is ready for the eveningâs festivities in Valentinoâs sashed blue-and-white jumpsuit .Photographed by Franco Rubartelli, *Vogue,* April 1, 1969

âValentino does it againâand again! One great lookâone great ponchoâafter another, Like this long, belted beige wool with flings of lynx and a short charmeuse-collared wool dress underneath.âPhotographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri, *Vogue,* September 15, 1969

Photographed by the Arch of Constantine, âone of the most beautiful coats you could own: double-faced wool printed in navy-and-white Positano foulard designs, the scarf patterns laid side by side and row upon row with absolute perfection. Belted in navy, buttoned in navy, and everything else in navy to matchâthe large straw hat, the stockings, the shoes.âPhotographed by Henry Clarke, *Vogue,* March 15, 1970

Tailoring, with panache, from Valentino.Photographed by Helmut Newton, *Vogue,* September 15, 1971

Richard Burton with Elizabeth Taylor âin black taffeta and lace by Valentino, a coiffure by Alexandre, and a mintâs worth of diamonds and emeralds.âPhotographed by Cecil Beaton, *Vogue,* January 15, 1972

âAt Valentinoâclothes drenched in feminine nuances.... A cascade of luscious pink pearls on a ravishing ivory chiffon-and-lace chemise; right, a fluttery pink silk rose at the waist of a daring black chiffon dress.âPhotographed by Helmut Newton, *Vogue,* Match 15, 1972

Paulina Porizkova makes a splash in in Valentinoâs maillot-inspired body-con dresses.Photographed by Irving Penn, *Vogue,* March 1985

In white velvet and rhinestones Carolyn Murphy, in Valentino Haute Couture, displays a âdaring dĂ©colletage.âPhotographed by Steven Mesiel , *Vogue,* October 1998

Maggie Rizer vamps in an inky look from a Valentino Haute Couture collection that was âall about temptation.â Embroidered lace top and double organza skirt with ostrich fringe.Photographed by Craig McDean, *Vogue,* October 2002

Gisele BĂŒndchen in goddess mode, the Valentino way: Chiffon top, pants, and shorts.Photographed by Steven Klein, *Vogue,* March 2003

Cameron Diaz gets carried away in a taffeta Valentino Haute Couture gown with corset bodice.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, *Vogue,* May 2003

Nicole Kidman in a vintage Valentino cape over a white beaded tulle dress from the designerâs 2004 Haute Couture collection.Photographed by Irving Penn, *Vogue,* May 2004

Jennie Runk in Valentino red.Photographed by Steven Meisel, *Vogue,* April 2005

Liya Kebede in Valentinoâs black silk and white lace dress.Photographed by Arthur Elgort, *Vogue,* March 2006

Caroline Trentini in âValentinoâs Goya-esque 1985 dress with a feathered lace back, shirred velvet waist, gathered duchesse satin skirt, and tulle train is âonly about making a woman look and feel beautiful.â âPhotographed by Irving Penn, *Vogue,* March 2007

Valentino Garavani.Photographed by Horst P. Horst, *Vogue,* April 15, 1970

Gwyneth Paltrow and Valentino Garavani at the Venice Film Festival, 2002. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain / Getty Images

Marie-Chantal Miller with Valentino Garavani at the Costume Institute Gala, 2001.Photo: Evan Agostini / Getty Images

Halle Berry in Valentino at the Golden Globe Awards, 2002.Photo: Vince Bucci / Getty Images

Valentino Garavani and and Oprah Winfrey, 1996.Photo: Richard Corkery / NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images

Valentino Garavani, 1970.Photo: Ron Galella / Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images

Oscar winner Cate Blanchett in Valentino, 2005.Photo: Kevin Winter / Getty Images

Anne Hathaway and Valentino Garavani at the Oscars, 2011.Photo: John Shearer / Getty Images

Oscar-winner Julia Roberts in Valentino, 2001.Photo: Frank Trapper / Corbis via Getty Images

Jennifer Lopez, in Valentino, with Ben Affleck at the Academy Awards, 2003.Photo: Frank Trapper / Corbis via Getty Images

Valentino Garavani and Jacqueline Kennedy, 1970.Photo: Bettmann

Valentino Garavani and pugs, 1990s.Photo: Archivio APG / Mondadori via Getty Images

Valentino Garavani in Rome, 1991.Photo: Gianni Giansanti / Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Golden Globe winner Halle Berry in Valentino, 2000.Photo: Ron Galella / Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images
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| Readable Markdown | Valentino Garavani, the Roman couturier who launched his label in 1960 and found worldwide fame dressing European royals, American first ladies, and stars of the day, has died at his home in Rome. He was 93.
With his exacting pattern-making, signature hue of [poppy red](https://www.vogue.com/article/happy-90-birthday-valentino-garavani-a-red-dress-celebration), and eye for feminine details like bows, ruffles, lace, and embroideries, Valentino was one of the key architects of late 20th century glamour. Valâs Gals, as his coterie was often called, included Elizabeth Taylor, [Audrey Hepburn](https://www.vogue.com/tag/celebrity/audrey-hepburn), and Sophia Loren. Jackie Kennedy wore a white gown of Valentinoâs creation for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis, and decades later the designer interpreted a mint green gown he had made for the former first lady in 1967 for Jennifer Lopezâs appearance at the 2003 Oscars. In 2001 Julia Roberts accepted her Best Actress award for *Erin Brokovich* in a vintage black and white Valentino gown.
In 2009, The designer was the subject of the Matt Tyrnauer-directed [documentary](https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/best-fashion-documentaries), *Valentino: The Last Emperor*, which followed the designer, his career-long business partner Giancarlo Giammetti, and his entourage in the two years leading up to his retirement. In the film, Valentino tells a reporter: âI know what women want, they want to be beautiful,â a 10-word summation of the aesthetic that had turned him into a multimillionaire.
In the years after his retirement in 2008, which was feted with a three-day extravaganza in Rome, Valentino hardly faded from public view. He could be found many seasons sitting in the front row of Parisâs Hotel de Rothschild, taking in the latest collection from creative directors Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, the latter of whom [decamped for Christian Dior](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/christian-dior) in 2016. Valentino was so moved by Piccioliâs haute couture collection for [fall 2018](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-couture/valentino) that he stood for an ovation, tears rolling down his tanned cheeks.
When he wasnât cheering on the designers who inherited his label, Garavani could often be seen on Instagram, hosting glamorous parties at his French estate Wideville or on his yacht TM Blue One, rarely without his brood of pugs in tow.
âMy last memory of Valentino is watching him delighting in Alessandro Micheleâs first collection for Valentino,â says Anna Wintour, Global Chief Content Officer and Artistic Director at CondĂ© Nast and Global Editorial Director of *Vogue*. âThis was over FaceTime on Giancarlo Giammettiâs phone. Delight is a word I associate so completely with Valentino. He was always the best company, always a perfect host. He adored his extraordinary clients and led the life they didâand so he totally understood their needs. His manners were impeccable. He was breathtakingly polite, admiring, and generous. Yes, he was of a certain world, but not boxed in by it. His clothes were effortless, feminine, and delightful (that word again). And in all things he was guided, protected, and adored by his lifelong friend and partner, Giancarloâa true keeper of the flame.â
Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani was born in Voghera, Italy, on May 11, 1932. He decided on design as his mĂ©tier early on and enrolled at the Accademia dellâArte in Milan where he studied fashion and French. Pursuing his ambition, at 17 Garavani moved to Paris to attend the Ăcole des Beaux Arts and the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Post-studies, he assisted Jean DessĂ©s, a Greek designer known for his pleated evening dresses, and Guy Laroche, a Frenchman with a sportier aesthetic.
After a year spent working alongside the noted beauty Princess Irene Galitzine, who popularized elegant evening pajamas, Garavani set out on his own with the backing of his father and a family friend, establishing his maison, circa 1959, on Romeâs Via Condotti. âIt was *une maison de couture,*â explained Giammettiâwho met Garavani soon afterâin an interview with *Vanity Fair.* âI say it in French because it was very much on the line of what he had seen in Paris⊠Everything was very grand already. Models flew from Paris for his first show. Italian fashion was very limited at the time. There were a few good designers, but just a few.â
With Giammetti at his side, Valentino became one of the very best, despite the fact that within a year he was facing bankruptcy. He blamed his âchampagne tastes,â and the pair soon vacated Via Condotti and moved to a smaller space in a 16th-century palazzo on the Via Gregoriana.
The press, initially interested in Valentino as a budding talent and handsome new face, soon had more incentive to pay attention to this young designer: his celebrity pull. In 1961, the violet-eyed Elizabeth Taylor, in town to shoot *Cleopatra*, chose a white haute couture column by Valentino to wear to the premiere of *Spartacus.*
The designerâs All White couture collection of 1968 is the one that set him solidly in the firmature of Italian design. *Vogue* declared it âthe talk of Europe,â and waxed lyrical about âthe cleanliness and distinction of his crisp whites, his lacy whites, his soft and creamy whites, all shown together white on white. And all triumphs for the thirty-five-year-old designer who, pouring out all this beauty, romance, and perfection, has become the idol of the young, a new symbol of modern luxury.â Some of these marvels were photographed by the magazine in Cy Twomblyâs Roman apartment on Marisa Berenson, who, as a granddaughter of Elsa Schiaparelli, qualified as fashion royalty.
Despite the white collectionâs historical importance, the designer will forever be associated with the color red, and not just any shade, but a sparkling crisp Valentino red that speaks of Italy, passion, religion, lust, and love.
âEverything,â he once said, âis made to attract, seduce, entrance.â As alluring a woman wearing Valentino might be, however, she was above all and unmistakably a lady.
There is a certain polish and formality to Valentinoâs work that speaks to an earlier age of glamour and the beginnings of the jet set, which is now a thing of the past. The *dream* of the good life never gets old, however, and the lure of the brand was, in part, its link to the lives of âthe rich and famous,â an A-list crowd of which Valentino was a member. It should be noted that formality is not synonymous with modesty; evening dresses with lingerie touches were a part of Garavaniâs repertoire, and he appreciated a lovely decolletage. Also abs: dresses with tastefully placed cut-outs were another specialty that appealed to the fit and fabulous.
Casual was always a relative term in Valentinoâs worldâthe designer even looked put-together in that famous paparazzi pic taken in Capri in 1970 with a barefoot Jackie O. His signature look was a perfect coif, a rich tan, and a suit. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who joined the house in 2008 (and who dared to wear flip-flops to the office) remembers that the air conditioning was on full blast in the offices all summer so that the staff could wear suits. âI was happy that I arrived there when I was all grown up,â Piccioli told *Vogue* in 2019. âValentino was formalâvery, very formal. There was a ritual, and I liked that.â
Although Valentino was producing ready-to-wear from the categoryâs earliest days in the 1960s it was elevated rather than laid-back. âIf anyone can approximate haute couture detailing in ready-to-wear, it is he, *Vogue* critic Sarah Mower noted decades on.
Though Garavani has expressed his dislike for 1980s fashions, *Vogue* wrote that the business soared at the time; reporting that âin 1986, Valentino was Italyâs top fashion exporter, shipping some \$385 million that year.â If the Valentino aesthetic was the polar opposite of grunge that dominated so much of the â90s, it was extremely relevant to the celebrity culture that started to take off in that decade. This shift benefited âVa-Vaâ greatly, and he racked up major red-carpet credits.
Like the celebrities he dressed, Garavani was himself a star. As Piccioli once put it: âValentino was the brand himself.â And the designer lived the life he designed for. Long after his retirement, Garavani remained an arbiter of taste and decorum and a paradigm of success. He lived his life in pursuit of beauty. âI loved working with him,â Piccioli told *Vogue.* âI loved to hear him talking about his dreams of a dress drawn with one line.â Long may his dreams live.
*The lying in state will be held at PM23 in Piazza Mignanelli 23 in Rome on January 21 and 22, and a funeral will take place on January 23 at the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, in Piazza della Repubblica 8 in Rome, at 11 am.*

âIncisively black-and-white with a crunch of jet and strass-fumĂ©e embroideryâ is how *Vogue* described Valentinoâs zebra-stamped calfskin blazer.Photographed by Leombruno-Bodi , *Vogue,* March 15, 1963

Princess Luciana Pignatelli wears an âevening coat *folie* in white ostrich, white minkâmost glorious way to arrive at a party since sedan-chairs went out. By Valentino, it opens over his long bias-cut white crepe dress.âPhotographed by Henry Clarke, *Vogue,* November 15, 1964

Valentino's âArt Nouveau pyjamasâ photographed against the tapestries in Marchesa Valeria Littaâs apartment in Rome.Photographed by David Bailey, *Vogue,* April 1965

Marisa Berenson takes in the view of Capri from the rooftop of Veneiro Colasanti and John Mooreâs Studio wearing a stunning Valentino look: âwhite silk branching out into a thousand red leaves and unleashing a great panel train over red crepe pants.âPhotographed by Arnaud de Rosnay, *Vogue,* January 1, 1968

Photographed in Cy Twomblyâs apartment in Rome, âValentinoâs whiteâthe talk of Europe. The cleanliness and distinction of his crisp white, his lacy whites, his soft and creamy whites, all shown together white on white. And all, trimumphs,â reported *Vogue,* âfor the thirty-five-year-old designer who, pouring out all this beauty, romance, and perfection, has become an idol of the young, a new symbol of modern luxuryâŠ.âPhotographed by Henry Clarke, *Vogue,* March 15, 1968

Photographed in the Palazzo Borghese apartment of Agnese Bruguier big evening looks by Valentino. At left, Madame Philippe Leroy and Jean Claude de Luca in black velvet, and at right, the designerâs âDelft porcelain showstoppers âŠsensational in their silk luxuriousness.âPhotographed by Henry Clarke, *Vogue,* September 15, 1968

Ann Turkel wears Valentinoâs âutterly feminine dressâŠa long black drift of gazarâfull of movementâbordered with white organdie flamenco flounces.âPhotographed by Gianni Penati, *Vogue,* March 15, 1969

Claudia Cardinale in Valentinoâs âtiers and tiers of clean white organza floating over languorous coral-silk pants.âPhotographed by Gianni Penati, *Vogue,* April 1, 1969

The sun sets in the Piazza di San Giorgio al Velabro and Verushcka is ready for the eveningâs festivities in Valentinoâs sashed blue-and-white jumpsuit .Photographed by Franco Rubartelli, *Vogue,* April 1, 1969

âValentino does it againâand again! One great lookâone great ponchoâafter another, Like this long, belted beige wool with flings of lynx and a short charmeuse-collared wool dress underneath.âPhotographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri, *Vogue,* September 15, 1969

Photographed by the Arch of Constantine, âone of the most beautiful coats you could own: double-faced wool printed in navy-and-white Positano foulard designs, the scarf patterns laid side by side and row upon row with absolute perfection. Belted in navy, buttoned in navy, and everything else in navy to matchâthe large straw hat, the stockings, the shoes.âPhotographed by Henry Clarke, *Vogue,* March 15, 1970

Tailoring, with panache, from Valentino.Photographed by Helmut Newton, *Vogue,* September 15, 1971

Richard Burton with Elizabeth Taylor âin black taffeta and lace by Valentino, a coiffure by Alexandre, and a mintâs worth of diamonds and emeralds.âPhotographed by Cecil Beaton, *Vogue,* January 15, 1972

âAt Valentinoâclothes drenched in feminine nuances.... A cascade of luscious pink pearls on a ravishing ivory chiffon-and-lace chemise; right, a fluttery pink silk rose at the waist of a daring black chiffon dress.âPhotographed by Helmut Newton, *Vogue,* Match 15, 1972

Paulina Porizkova makes a splash in in Valentinoâs maillot-inspired body-con dresses.Photographed by Irving Penn, *Vogue,* March 1985

In white velvet and rhinestones Carolyn Murphy, in Valentino Haute Couture, displays a âdaring dĂ©colletage.âPhotographed by Steven Mesiel , *Vogue,* October 1998

Maggie Rizer vamps in an inky look from a Valentino Haute Couture collection that was âall about temptation.â Embroidered lace top and double organza skirt with ostrich fringe.Photographed by Craig McDean, *Vogue,* October 2002

Gisele BĂŒndchen in goddess mode, the Valentino way: Chiffon top, pants, and shorts.Photographed by Steven Klein, *Vogue,* March 2003

Cameron Diaz gets carried away in a taffeta Valentino Haute Couture gown with corset bodice.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, *Vogue,* May 2003

Nicole Kidman in a vintage Valentino cape over a white beaded tulle dress from the designerâs 2004 Haute Couture collection.Photographed by Irving Penn, *Vogue,* May 2004

Jennie Runk in Valentino red.Photographed by Steven Meisel, *Vogue,* April 2005

Liya Kebede in Valentinoâs black silk and white lace dress.Photographed by Arthur Elgort, *Vogue,* March 2006

Caroline Trentini in âValentinoâs Goya-esque 1985 dress with a feathered lace back, shirred velvet waist, gathered duchesse satin skirt, and tulle train is âonly about making a woman look and feel beautiful.â âPhotographed by Irving Penn, *Vogue,* March 2007

Valentino Garavani.Photographed by Horst P. Horst, *Vogue,* April 15, 1970

Gwyneth Paltrow and Valentino Garavani at the Venice Film Festival, 2002. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain / Getty Images

Marie-Chantal Miller with Valentino Garavani at the Costume Institute Gala, 2001.Photo: Evan Agostini / Getty Images

Halle Berry in Valentino at the Golden Globe Awards, 2002.Photo: Vince Bucci / Getty Images

Valentino Garavani and and Oprah Winfrey, 1996.Photo: Richard Corkery / NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images

Valentino Garavani, 1970.Photo: Ron Galella / Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images

Oscar winner Cate Blanchett in Valentino, 2005.Photo: Kevin Winter / Getty Images

Anne Hathaway and Valentino Garavani at the Oscars, 2011.Photo: John Shearer / Getty Images

Oscar-winner Julia Roberts in Valentino, 2001.Photo: Frank Trapper / Corbis via Getty Images

Jennifer Lopez, in Valentino, with Ben Affleck at the Academy Awards, 2003.Photo: Frank Trapper / Corbis via Getty Images

Valentino Garavani and Jacqueline Kennedy, 1970.Photo: Bettmann

Valentino Garavani and pugs, 1990s.Photo: Archivio APG / Mondadori via Getty Images

Valentino Garavani in Rome, 1991.Photo: Gianni Giansanti / Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Golden Globe winner Halle Berry in Valentino, 2000.Photo: Ron Galella / Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images |
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