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| Meta Title | Plants & Trees Planting Guides | The Tree Center™ |
| Meta Description | Our informative, well-illustrated guides will help novice gardeners learn the skills to plant any tree or shrub. Learn from the pros today. |
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| Boilerpipe Text | 1. Choose a Location
If you haven't already done so, take a few minutes to choose where you plant your new tree. Consider the general needs for sun or shade and soil moisture. Here are some do's and don'ts:
Check the description for your tree to find out what its particular needs are for sun, drainage, clearance from buildings and wind protection.
Place your tree where it will get the amount of sun or shade it needs. Most trees will do best in a sunny spot, but some trees need shade, especially from hot afternoon summer sun.
Think about drainage. Some plants need well-drained soil and should not be planted in low-lying spots which can be too damp a lot of the time.
Plant far enough away from buildings and walls. Your young tree may be pretty small right now, but it will soon grow and it should have enough space around it to develop properly. You should allow at least 6 feet from buildings and for trees that will grow larger 12 or 15 feet may not be too much.
Look up and don't plant under utility lines. Always plant well away from utilities like electricity and telephone lines. If your tree starts to get close to wires your utility company will come and chop the top off – they do a good job but you may not like how your tree looks after they are finished, so avoid the problem and plant well away from lines.
Don't plant right against a swimming pool or on top of water and sewage lines or a septic bed.
Keep inside your property line and plant back from the actual survey line. 6 feet is a good general rule, although it may vary depending on your city. Sometimes you may not be allowed to have trees over a certain height if they are too close to the boundary.
Think of the view. What will your tree be in front of when it is grown? Maybe you want to block something ugly, but you may want to keep a nice view too, so consider that.
Is your tree going to throw shade where you don’t want it? The shadow of your tree is going to be on the south and west side for most of the day. Maybe you want that shade or maybe you don’t.
2. Prepare the Soil
Your tree is going to be in its new home for a long time, so it is worth spending a little time digging over the planting area and removing weeds and large stones bigger than your clenched fist. Add some organic material – compost, manure, rotted leaves, grass clippings or peat-moss are all good materials to use. Some bone-meal, superphosphate or tree-starter food is great too – remember to use the recommended quantities as 'a little extra' is often a bad idea.
3. Dig the Hole
Your planting hole should be at least twice the width of the pot your tree is in and three times the width is even better. Dig your hole the same depth as the pot and put the soil on one side.
4. Prepare Your Tree
Unwrap the tree completely, place it in a shady spot and water it really well the night before planting. When you are ready to plant carefully slide the tree out of its pot.
If your tree is still dormant and has no leaves at all, shake off some of the soil so that the roots are spread out instead of tightly wrapped around the root-ball.
If your tree is a deciduous type of tree and has leaves on it, take a sharp knife and cut one inch deep at three or four spots around the root-ball, from top to bottom. This will encourage the roots to spread out and prevent them eventually growing around the trunk and injuring your tree.
If your tree is an evergreen needle-tree (a conifer) the roots are finer and should not be disturbed. Palms and other exotic trees should also not be disturbed when planting.
5. Put Your Tree in the Hole
Place your tree in the center of the hole so that it will be the same depth as it was in the pot. A good way to do this is to place a stick across the hole and then add or remove soil underneath until your tree is at the proper depth. The soil underneath the tree should be firmed down and not soft or you tree will sink after planting.
6. Put Back the Soil
First, put about two-thirds of the soil back around the roots, pressing it down gently so you don’t leave any air-spaces.
Then fill the hole to the top with water. Let all the water drain away and now replace the rest of the soil. Don’t pile any extra around the trunk – keep the top of the root-ball less than one inch below the final soil level.
Build a low 'wall' of soil two inches high in a circle around the tree twice the distance from the trunk as the pot was wide. This will help keep water around the roots.
7. Apply Mulch
Mulch the area with organic mulch like compost, manure, leaves, pine-needles, bark or chopped leaves 2 to 4 inches deep. This is better than gravel or stones – unless that is a feature of your garden design. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk.
8. Aftercare
Water your new tree well every week, or even more if you are planting during hot weather or you have very sandy soil. Do this for all of the first growing season. Always water thoroughly over the area right around the tree until the soil is wet deep down. 2 to 4 gallons of water is usually about right. |
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## Guides To Help You
Instructional how-to’s for the novice to expert gardener. Let us guide you to plant nirvana.
- [Planting Guides](https://www.thetreecenter.com/ttc_guide_categories/planting-guides/ "Planting Guides")
[ Planting Guides General Planting Guide For the first month, give your tree a good soaking twice per week. Set your hose to a small trickle and allow your water-holding basin to fill up with roughly 30 minutes worth…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/general-planting-guide/)
[ Planting Guides How To Plant Rhododendrons, Azaleas and Camellias A whole group of plants have developed to live in acid soil conditions where other plants will not do so well. Top of the list for gardeners are Rhododendrons and Azaleas, closely followed…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-rhododendrons-azaleas-camellias/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Deciduous Hedges Hedges are one of the major features of many gardens. Besides providing privacy and protection for your garden, they make the perfect backdrop for ornamental and flowering shrubs and plants. The plants you…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-deciduous-hedges/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Deciduous Trees Deciduous trees lose their foliage during winter, bursting to life with new growth once spring arrives. Many types of deciduous trees bring color to an otherwise dull landscape in fall with their brilliant…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-deciduous-trees/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Boxwoods Boxwood bushes are great plants for making small or medium-sized hedges and also as specimens in the garden. They are often used as part of the planting around the house, as they can…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-boxwoods/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Evergreen Hedges Hedges are one of the major features of many gardens. Besides providing privacy and protection for your garden, they make the perfect backdrop for ornamental and flowering shrubs and plants. The plants you…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-evergreen-hedges/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Garden Shrubs Gardeners have an almost endless selection of different varieties of garden shrubs. Whether you desire evergreens, flowering types, those producing colorful foliage or that grow tall or short, there is a shrub meeting…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-garden-shrubs/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Evergreen Trees The moment has arrived – your new trees have been delivered and you are about to plant them in your garden. These trees are going to be with you for many years to…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-evergreen-trees/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Bare Root Trees The moment has arrived and your new trees are here. They will give you years of beauty and usefulness, shade or privacy protection, flowers, fruit or whatever your particular trees have to offer….](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-bare-root-trees/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Japanese Maples With their large diversity in sizes, leaf forms, shapes and eye-catching fall colors in a range of robust hues, Japanese maple trees are sure to be the stars of the garden, adding interest…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-japanese-maples/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Crape Myrtle Trees Crape Myrtles are one of the best trees for summer flowering. They come in a wide variety of colors and heights, but they all have very much the same needs when it comes…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-crape-myrtle-trees/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Hydrangeas Hydrangeas are among the most popular plants for shady parts of the garden. They flower late, after many other plants are finished blooming, they last for weeks and weeks in bloom, slowly changing…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-hydrangeas/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Apple and Pear Trees You have decided to grow some fruit trees and the moment has arrived – your new trees are here. Growing fruit trees is not difficult and the fun of growing your own fruit,…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-apple-pear-trees/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Roses Roses are very popular flowering shrubs that can be grown in many different garden situations. Modern varieties flower continuously from spring to fall and provide color in the garden all season long. With…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-roses/)
[ Planting Guides How to Plant Citrus Trees Citrus trees include oranges, lemons, limes, tangerines, mandarins, satsumas and kumquats. This guide will help you plant any kind of citrus tree. If you live in a warm area these are great trees…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-citrus-trees/)
[ Planting Guides How To Plant a Privacy Screen Privacy is a major consideration for many gardens, but you are about to solve that problem in your own yard. The plants you chose for your screen have arrived and now it’s time…](https://www.thetreecenter.com/guides/plant-privacy-screen/)
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# General Planting Guide
1. ## 1\. Choose a Location
If you haven't already done so, take a few minutes to choose where you plant your new tree. Consider the general needs for sun or shade and soil moisture. Here are some do's and don'ts:
Check the description for your tree to find out what its particular needs are for sun, drainage, clearance from buildings and wind protection.
Place your tree where it will get the amount of sun or shade it needs. Most trees will do best in a sunny spot, but some trees need shade, especially from hot afternoon summer sun.
Think about drainage. Some plants need well-drained soil and should not be planted in low-lying spots which can be too damp a lot of the time.
Plant far enough away from buildings and walls. Your young tree may be pretty small right now, but it will soon grow and it should have enough space around it to develop properly. You should allow at least 6 feet from buildings and for trees that will grow larger 12 or 15 feet may not be too much.
Look up and don't plant under utility lines. Always plant well away from utilities like electricity and telephone lines. If your tree starts to get close to wires your utility company will come and chop the top off – they do a good job but you may not like how your tree looks after they are finished, so avoid the problem and plant well away from lines.
Don't plant right against a swimming pool or on top of water and sewage lines or a septic bed.
Keep inside your property line and plant back from the actual survey line. 6 feet is a good general rule, although it may vary depending on your city. Sometimes you may not be allowed to have trees over a certain height if they are too close to the boundary.
Think of the view. What will your tree be in front of when it is grown? Maybe you want to block something ugly, but you may want to keep a nice view too, so consider that.
Is your tree going to throw shade where you don’t want it? The shadow of your tree is going to be on the south and west side for most of the day. Maybe you want that shade or maybe you don’t.
2. ## 2\. Prepare the Soil
Your tree is going to be in its new home for a long time, so it is worth spending a little time digging over the planting area and removing weeds and large stones bigger than your clenched fist. Add some organic material – compost, manure, rotted leaves, grass clippings or peat-moss are all good materials to use. Some bone-meal, superphosphate or tree-starter food is great too – remember to use the recommended quantities as 'a little extra' is often a bad idea.
3. ## 3\. Dig the Hole
Your planting hole should be at least twice the width of the pot your tree is in and three times the width is even better. Dig your hole the same depth as the pot and put the soil on one side.
4. ## 4\. Prepare Your Tree
Unwrap the tree completely, place it in a shady spot and water it really well the night before planting. When you are ready to plant carefully slide the tree out of its pot.
If your tree is still dormant and has no leaves at all, shake off some of the soil so that the roots are spread out instead of tightly wrapped around the root-ball.
If your tree is a deciduous type of tree and has leaves on it, take a sharp knife and cut one inch deep at three or four spots around the root-ball, from top to bottom. This will encourage the roots to spread out and prevent them eventually growing around the trunk and injuring your tree.
If your tree is an evergreen needle-tree (a conifer) the roots are finer and should not be disturbed. Palms and other exotic trees should also not be disturbed when planting.
5. ## 5\. Put Your Tree in the Hole
Place your tree in the center of the hole so that it will be the same depth as it was in the pot. A good way to do this is to place a stick across the hole and then add or remove soil underneath until your tree is at the proper depth. The soil underneath the tree should be firmed down and not soft or you tree will sink after planting.
6. ## 6\. Put Back the Soil
First, put about two-thirds of the soil back around the roots, pressing it down gently so you don’t leave any air-spaces.
Then fill the hole to the top with water. Let all the water drain away and now replace the rest of the soil. Don’t pile any extra around the trunk – keep the top of the root-ball less than one inch below the final soil level.
Build a low 'wall' of soil two inches high in a circle around the tree twice the distance from the trunk as the pot was wide. This will help keep water around the roots.
7. ## 7\. Apply Mulch
Mulch the area with organic mulch like compost, manure, leaves, pine-needles, bark or chopped leaves 2 to 4 inches deep. This is better than gravel or stones – unless that is a feature of your garden design. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk.
8. ## 8\. Aftercare
Water your new tree well every week, or even more if you are planting during hot weather or you have very sandy soil. Do this for all of the first growing season. Always water thoroughly over the area right around the tree until the soil is wet deep down. 2 to 4 gallons of water is usually about right.
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| Readable Markdown | 1. ## 1\. Choose a Location
If you haven't already done so, take a few minutes to choose where you plant your new tree. Consider the general needs for sun or shade and soil moisture. Here are some do's and don'ts:
Check the description for your tree to find out what its particular needs are for sun, drainage, clearance from buildings and wind protection.
Place your tree where it will get the amount of sun or shade it needs. Most trees will do best in a sunny spot, but some trees need shade, especially from hot afternoon summer sun.
Think about drainage. Some plants need well-drained soil and should not be planted in low-lying spots which can be too damp a lot of the time.
Plant far enough away from buildings and walls. Your young tree may be pretty small right now, but it will soon grow and it should have enough space around it to develop properly. You should allow at least 6 feet from buildings and for trees that will grow larger 12 or 15 feet may not be too much.
Look up and don't plant under utility lines. Always plant well away from utilities like electricity and telephone lines. If your tree starts to get close to wires your utility company will come and chop the top off – they do a good job but you may not like how your tree looks after they are finished, so avoid the problem and plant well away from lines.
Don't plant right against a swimming pool or on top of water and sewage lines or a septic bed.
Keep inside your property line and plant back from the actual survey line. 6 feet is a good general rule, although it may vary depending on your city. Sometimes you may not be allowed to have trees over a certain height if they are too close to the boundary.
Think of the view. What will your tree be in front of when it is grown? Maybe you want to block something ugly, but you may want to keep a nice view too, so consider that.
Is your tree going to throw shade where you don’t want it? The shadow of your tree is going to be on the south and west side for most of the day. Maybe you want that shade or maybe you don’t.
2. ## 2\. Prepare the Soil
Your tree is going to be in its new home for a long time, so it is worth spending a little time digging over the planting area and removing weeds and large stones bigger than your clenched fist. Add some organic material – compost, manure, rotted leaves, grass clippings or peat-moss are all good materials to use. Some bone-meal, superphosphate or tree-starter food is great too – remember to use the recommended quantities as 'a little extra' is often a bad idea.
3. ## 3\. Dig the Hole
Your planting hole should be at least twice the width of the pot your tree is in and three times the width is even better. Dig your hole the same depth as the pot and put the soil on one side.
4. ## 4\. Prepare Your Tree
Unwrap the tree completely, place it in a shady spot and water it really well the night before planting. When you are ready to plant carefully slide the tree out of its pot.
If your tree is still dormant and has no leaves at all, shake off some of the soil so that the roots are spread out instead of tightly wrapped around the root-ball.
If your tree is a deciduous type of tree and has leaves on it, take a sharp knife and cut one inch deep at three or four spots around the root-ball, from top to bottom. This will encourage the roots to spread out and prevent them eventually growing around the trunk and injuring your tree.
If your tree is an evergreen needle-tree (a conifer) the roots are finer and should not be disturbed. Palms and other exotic trees should also not be disturbed when planting.
5. ## 5\. Put Your Tree in the Hole
Place your tree in the center of the hole so that it will be the same depth as it was in the pot. A good way to do this is to place a stick across the hole and then add or remove soil underneath until your tree is at the proper depth. The soil underneath the tree should be firmed down and not soft or you tree will sink after planting.
6. ## 6\. Put Back the Soil
First, put about two-thirds of the soil back around the roots, pressing it down gently so you don’t leave any air-spaces.
Then fill the hole to the top with water. Let all the water drain away and now replace the rest of the soil. Don’t pile any extra around the trunk – keep the top of the root-ball less than one inch below the final soil level.
Build a low 'wall' of soil two inches high in a circle around the tree twice the distance from the trunk as the pot was wide. This will help keep water around the roots.
7. ## 7\. Apply Mulch
Mulch the area with organic mulch like compost, manure, leaves, pine-needles, bark or chopped leaves 2 to 4 inches deep. This is better than gravel or stones – unless that is a feature of your garden design. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk.
8. ## 8\. Aftercare
Water your new tree well every week, or even more if you are planting during hot weather or you have very sandy soil. Do this for all of the first growing season. Always water thoroughly over the area right around the tree until the soil is wet deep down. 2 to 4 gallons of water is usually about right. |
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