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| Meta Title | From Russia, With Thrusters - The New York Times |
| Meta Description | As another Soyuz space rocket prepares to send a new batch of astronauts to the International Space Station, a photographer takes us inside the world’s oldest and largest spaceport. |
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| Boilerpipe Text | As another Soyuz space rocket prepares to send a new batch of astronauts to the International Space Station, a photographer takes us inside the world’s oldest and largest spaceport.
Credit...
March 11, 2019
BAIKONUR, Kazakhstan — More than a half-century ago, the launch site here became the first place to send humans into space. It is still our main route to the heavens, at least for now.
As these photos suggest, time has since put a wrinkle or two or three on the massive Baikonur Cosmodrome, some 1,300 miles southeast of Moscow.
It was at Baikonur that the Soviets launched Sputnik in 1957, shocking America and beginning the space race in earnest. The United States worked furiously to catch up to, and eventually surpass, the Soviet program. In 1961, Yuri Gagarin left Baikonur for a single orbit of the Earth.
Today, Russians, Americans and travelers from other nations team up on missions launched from the Baikonur site, described by Vladimir V. Putin six years ago as “physically aged.” Besides all the liftoffs, Baikonur serves as a tourist draw, offering a museum, tours and even an opportunity to take a zero gravity flight.
[
Sign up to get reminders for space and astronomy events on your calendar
.]
On Dec. 3, the crew of Soyuz MS-11 — with Anne McClain of the United States, Oleg Kononenko of Russia and David Saint-Jacques of Canada — took off for the International Space Station. On Thursday, two more Americans and a Russian will travel there. One of the Americans on that trip, Christina Koch, plans to join Ms. McClain in the first all-female spacewalk.
Since the final space shuttle flight in 2011, American astronauts have had to hitch rides on Russian ships to get to the space station. NASA’s current strategy is to use private companies — Elon Musk’s SpaceX and Boeing — to carry Americans into space. Mr. Musk, fresh from
a successful uncrewed
launch this month, hopes this year to end Baikonur’s status as the exclusive provider of human travel to the space station.
Image
A hall at the Baikonur cosmodrome dedicated to the International Space Station.
Image
In the Museum of the Baikonur Cosmodrome, a mannequin used in rocket testing and a painting of Moscow.
Image
Rockets, planes, kites and other flying objects at the cosmodrome's International Space School.
Image
One of the cosmodrome's launch complexes.
Credit...
Maxim Babenko for The New York Times
Image
Kazakh culture on display in the City Museum of Baikonur.
Image
A performance in the City Palace of Culture of Baikonur.
Image
At the space school, a small rocket was successfully launched.
Image
A model of Baikonur’s various launch complexes.
Image
The Buran spacecraft, a Soviet shuttle that completed only one uncrewed flight in 1988.
Image
Security at the site of the rocket, two days before lift-off.
Image
The rocket being towed to the launch site.
Image
The crew of Soyuz MS-11, including flight engineer Ann McClain of NASA, left, and commander Oleg Kononenko of Roscosmos, en route to the launch pad. The third crew member, flight engineer David Saint-Jacques, is with the Canadian Space Agency.
Image
Commander Kononenko shared a moment with the crowd before being bused to the launch pad.
Image
Seconds into the launch.
Image
Spectators saw off the three newest visitors to the International Space Station.
Image
After Soyuz’s initial liftoff, the audience was ushered to a tent to continue watching the rocket’s progress into space.
Image
Pants belonging to Anousheh Ansari, the first privately funded female space tourist to the International Space Station.
Image
A monument to the Nedelin disaster of 1960, which killed dozens when a missile prototype being prepared for a test flight exploded.
Image
A bust of Yuri Gagarin, the first human in space, in the courtyard of the cosmodrome museum.
A version of this article appears in print on
March 12, 2019
, Section D, Page 2 of the New York edition with the headline: From Russia, With Thruster: 62 Years After Sputnik, Still Looking Skyward
.
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# From Russia, With Thrusters
As another Soyuz space rocket prepares to send a new batch of astronauts to the International Space Station, a photographer takes us inside the world’s oldest and largest spaceport.
Credit...
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Photographs by Maxim Babenko
Text by Steve Bell
- March 11, 2019
[Leer en español](https://www.nytimes.com/es/2019/03/14/estacion-espacial-baikonur-soyuz/ "Read in Spanish")
BAIKONUR, Kazakhstan — More than a half-century ago, the launch site here became the first place to send humans into space. It is still our main route to the heavens, at least for now.
As these photos suggest, time has since put a wrinkle or two or three on the massive Baikonur Cosmodrome, some 1,300 miles southeast of Moscow.
It was at Baikonur that the Soviets launched Sputnik in 1957, shocking America and beginning the space race in earnest. The United States worked furiously to catch up to, and eventually surpass, the Soviet program. In 1961, Yuri Gagarin left Baikonur for a single orbit of the Earth.
Today, Russians, Americans and travelers from other nations team up on missions launched from the Baikonur site, described by Vladimir V. Putin six years ago as “physically aged.” Besides all the liftoffs, Baikonur serves as a tourist draw, offering a museum, tours and even an opportunity to take a zero gravity flight.
***\[*****[*Sign up to get reminders for space and astronomy events on your calendar*](https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/science/astronomy-space-calendar.html)*****.\]***
On Dec. 3, the crew of Soyuz MS-11 — with Anne McClain of the United States, Oleg Kononenko of Russia and David Saint-Jacques of Canada — took off for the International Space Station. On Thursday, two more Americans and a Russian will travel there. One of the Americans on that trip, Christina Koch, plans to join Ms. McClain in the first all-female spacewalk.
Since the final space shuttle flight in 2011, American astronauts have had to hitch rides on Russian ships to get to the space station. NASA’s current strategy is to use private companies — Elon Musk’s SpaceX and Boeing — to carry Americans into space. Mr. Musk, fresh from [a successful uncrewed](https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/01/science/spacex-crew-dragon-launch.html) launch this month, hopes this year to end Baikonur’s status as the exclusive provider of human travel to the space station.
Image
A hall at the Baikonur cosmodrome dedicated to the International Space Station.
Image

In the Museum of the Baikonur Cosmodrome, a mannequin used in rocket testing and a painting of Moscow.
Image

Rockets, planes, kites and other flying objects at the cosmodrome's International Space School.
Image

One of the cosmodrome's launch complexes.Credit...Maxim Babenko for The New York Times
Image

Kazakh culture on display in the City Museum of Baikonur.
Image

A performance in the City Palace of Culture of Baikonur.
Image

At the space school, a small rocket was successfully launched.
Image

A model of Baikonur’s various launch complexes.
Image

The Buran spacecraft, a Soviet shuttle that completed only one uncrewed flight in 1988.
Image

Security at the site of the rocket, two days before lift-off.
Image

The rocket being towed to the launch site.
Image

The crew of Soyuz MS-11, including flight engineer Ann McClain of NASA, left, and commander Oleg Kononenko of Roscosmos, en route to the launch pad. The third crew member, flight engineer David Saint-Jacques, is with the Canadian Space Agency.
Image

Commander Kononenko shared a moment with the crowd before being bused to the launch pad.
Image

Seconds into the launch.
Image

Spectators saw off the three newest visitors to the International Space Station.
Image

After Soyuz’s initial liftoff, the audience was ushered to a tent to continue watching the rocket’s progress into space.
Image

Pants belonging to Anousheh Ansari, the first privately funded female space tourist to the International Space Station.
Image

A monument to the Nedelin disaster of 1960, which killed dozens when a missile prototype being prepared for a test flight exploded.
Image

A bust of Yuri Gagarin, the first human in space, in the courtyard of the cosmodrome museum.
A version of this article appears in print on March 12, 2019, Section D, Page 2 of the New York edition with the headline: From Russia, With Thruster: 62 Years After Sputnik, Still Looking Skyward. [Order Reprints](https://nytimes.wrightsmedia.com/) \| [Today’s Paper](https://www.nytimes.com/section/todayspaper) \| [Subscribe](https://www.nytimes.com/subscriptions/Multiproduct/lp8HYKU.html?campaignId=48JQY)
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