🕷️ Crawler Inspector

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Raw Queries and Responses

1. Shard Calculation

Query:

Response:

Calculated Shard: 39 (from laksa001)

2. Crawled Status Check

Query:

curl -X POST \
  'http://laksa039.int.ahrefs:8124/' \
  -H 'Content-Type: text/plain' \
  -H 'X-ClickHouse-Database: crawler3' \
  -H 'Authorization: Basic YXBpOg==' \
  -d 'SELECT getAhrefsURLFromUnparsed(src_unparsed) AS found_url, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(download_stamp), 0) AS crawl_time, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(props_url_first_seen), 0) AS first_indexed_time, download_http_code AS http_code, src_unparsed AS src_unparsed, src_root_hash AS src_root_hash, history_drop_reason AS history_drop_reason, meta_title AS meta_title, meta_descriptions AS meta_descriptions, attrs_boilerpipe_text AS attrs_boilerpipe_text, attrs_markdown AS attrs_markdown, attrs_readable_markdown AS attrs_readable_markdown, meta_canonical AS meta_canonical FROM crawler3.page_info_local FINAL PREWHERE (src_root_hash, src_unparsed) IN ((getAhrefsRootHashFromUnparsed(getAhrefsUnparsedNoserviceFromURL(\'https://www.networx.com/article/how-to-fix-a-leaky-faucet\')), getAhrefsUnparsedNoserviceFromURL(\'https://www.networx.com/article/how-to-fix-a-leaky-faucet\'))) FORMAT JSONEachRow'

Response:

{"found_url":"https:\/\/www.networx.com\/article\/how-to-fix-a-leaky-faucet","crawl_time":1774986827,"first_indexed_time":1516629274,"http_code":200,"src_unparsed":"com,networx!www,\/article\/how-to-fix-a-leaky-faucet s443","src_root_hash":"10245166376623109439","history_drop_reason":null,"meta_title":"How Do You Fix a Leaky Faucet? | Networx","meta_descriptions":["DIY leaky faucet repair -- for when your sink is drip, drip, dripping."],"attrs_boilerpipe_text":"More than 9 times out of 10, a leaky faucet is caused by a little rubber seal inside, such as a washer or O-ring, which has worn out from use. If this is the case, DIY faucet repair is a simple matter of replacing the worn-out seal. Just keep in mind the two most important rules about fixing faucets: 1) use exact replacement parts, and 2) pay attention (and maybe snap a couple of photos) when taking apart the faucet so you can put it back together in the same way. \nFollow these steps for DIY repair of a leaky faucet:\nIdentify the Source of the Leak\nIf water is dripping from the\nfaucet\nspout, the problem is in the faucet handle (or more accurately, the valve the handle controls). Feel the water coming out to see whether it’s hot or cold. If it’s a two-handle faucet, hot water dripping indicates the “hot” handle needs a repair, and cold indicates the “cold” side is bum. You can choose to fix just the one side, but often it’s best to do both, since the other side is likely to be on its last legs anyway. With most single-handle faucets, it doesn’t matter if it leaks just hot or cold; you’ll be accessing both sides at the same time so it makes sense to replace all of the seals.\nIf the leaky faucet has a movable spout, like all kitchen\nfaucets\nhave, and the plumbing leak is at the base of the spout, it’s probably the O-ring(s) sealing it to the faucet body and not a bad handle valve. However, since you have to disassemble the faucet to replace the O-ring(s), you might consider replacing the handle valve parts while you’re at it.\nRemove the Handle and Valve\nVERY IMPORTANT: Turn off the hot\nand\ncold water supply to the\nleaky\nfaucet by closing the shutoff valves under the sink—that is, turn the little football-shaped handles to the right until they stop.\nOpen the faucet handles to release any trapped air or water. Expose each handle screw by prying off any decorative (“H” or “C”) cap with a screwdriver. If there’s no cap, look for a setscrew on the side of the handle. Unscrew the handle, then lift it off and set it aside.\nYour faucet valve will be one of several different types, including a metal spindle (compression type), a plastic cartridge or disc, or a ball covering two holes integrated into the faucet body. In any case, it’s probably held in place by a threaded cap or nut and may be underneath an additional plastic cover or secured farther down on the body by a retaining clip. Take a moment to examine the fastening parts, then remove them using a screwdriver and\/or tongue-and-groove pliers. Remove or disassemble the valve to access all of the seals.\nFind Replacement Parts\nRubber seals, springs and other replaceable valve parts may be sold together as a kit (from the faucet manufacturer or an aftermarket supplier). Identifying the right parts by model number or written description may be difficult, so it’s best to find the part that looks exactly like the one in your hand. This means you have to bring all of the parts with you to the hardware store or home center.\nWashers, O-rings and other rubber seals are also sold individually or in assortment packs. With cartridge and cylinder-type valves, often it’s best to replace the whole cartridge or cylinder, if available, plus any additional seals or springs.\nReassemble the Faucet\nPut the faucet back together in the reverse order of the disassembly. Don’t force anything; if a part doesn’t seem to fit, it’s probably not aligned properly. Cartridges often have a little plastic tab that fits into a notch on the faucet body. For some seals, particularly O-rings that seal spouts, it’s a good idea to coat the rubber with a small amount of waterproof\/heatproof grease to ensure smooth motion.\nWith the faucet completely reassembled, open the handle(s) all the way, then slowly open the shutoff valves on the supply lines. The faucet might sputter as air passes through it, so be prepared for loud noises (this blast of air can damage some faucets, which is why you open the handle valves first). Once the water is flowing, turn off the handles to test the repair.\nIf you'd prefer to skip the DIY,\nhire a reliable, licensed plumber\nto fix that leaky faucet for you.","attrs_markdown":"[Networx](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/)\n\n- [Find a Pro](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/)\n  - [Air Conditioning](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/air-conditioning-service)\n  - [Carpentry](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/carpenters)\n  - [Cleaning](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/cleaning-services)\n  - [Concrete](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/concrete-contractors)\n  - [Drywall](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/drywall-contractors)\n  - [Electrician](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/electrical-contractor)\n  - [Fencing](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/fence-companies)\n  \n  - [Flooring](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/flooring-contractors)\n  - [Garage Door Installation](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/garage-door-installations)\n  - [Garage Door Repair](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/garage-door-repairs)\n  - [Handyman](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/handyman-services)\n  - [Heating & Furnace](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/heating-furnace-repair)\n  - [HVAC Contractors](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/hvac-service)\n  - [Landscaping](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/landscapers)\n  \n  - [Painting](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/painters)\n  - [Pest Control](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/pest-control)\n  - [Plumbing](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers)\n  - [Remodeling](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/remodeling-contractors)\n  - [Roofing](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/roofers)\n  - [Tile](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/tile-contractors)\n- [Blog](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/articles)\n- [Cost Guide](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/cost-guide)\n- [Experiences](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/experiences)\n- Login\n  - [Pros Login](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/login)\n  - [Homeowner Login](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/homeowner-login)\n- [Join As a Pro](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/generate-leads)\n\n- [Home](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/)\n- \\>\n- [Articles](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/articles)\n- \\>\n- [Plumbing](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/articles\/plumbing)\n- \\>\n- Article\n# How Do You Fix a Leaky Faucet?\n![Stephen Davies\/stock.xchng](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/275x210\/drippingfaucet_00348667bf2a72de0f6e8aa73b5585b9.jpg)More than 9 times out of 10, a leaky faucet is caused by a little rubber seal inside, such as a washer or O-ring, which has worn out from use. If this is the case, DIY faucet repair is a simple matter of replacing the worn-out seal. Just keep in mind the two most important rules about fixing faucets: 1) use exact replacement parts, and 2) pay attention (and maybe snap a couple of photos) when taking apart the faucet so you can put it back together in the same way.\n\nFollow these steps for DIY repair of a leaky faucet:\n\n**Identify the Source of the Leak**\n\nIf water is dripping from the [faucet](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/article\/understand-your-faucet) spout, the problem is in the faucet handle (or more accurately, the valve the handle controls). Feel the water coming out to see whether it’s hot or cold. If it’s a two-handle faucet, hot water dripping indicates the “hot” handle needs a repair, and cold indicates the “cold” side is bum. You can choose to fix just the one side, but often it’s best to do both, since the other side is likely to be on its last legs anyway. With most single-handle faucets, it doesn’t matter if it leaks just hot or cold; you’ll be accessing both sides at the same time so it makes sense to replace all of the seals.\n\nIf the leaky faucet has a movable spout, like all kitchen [faucets](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/article\/faucet-tap-or-spigot) have, and the plumbing leak is at the base of the spout, it’s probably the O-ring(s) sealing it to the faucet body and not a bad handle valve. However, since you have to disassemble the faucet to replace the O-ring(s), you might consider replacing the handle valve parts while you’re at it.\n\n**Remove the Handle and Valve**\n\nVERY IMPORTANT: Turn off the hot **and** cold water supply to the [leaky](https:\/\/www.epa.gov\/watersense\/fix-leak-week) faucet by closing the shutoff valves under the sink—that is, turn the little football-shaped handles to the right until they stop.\n\nOpen the faucet handles to release any trapped air or water. Expose each handle screw by prying off any decorative (“H” or “C”) cap with a screwdriver. If there’s no cap, look for a setscrew on the side of the handle. Unscrew the handle, then lift it off and set it aside.\n\nYour faucet valve will be one of several different types, including a metal spindle (compression type), a plastic cartridge or disc, or a ball covering two holes integrated into the faucet body. In any case, it’s probably held in place by a threaded cap or nut and may be underneath an additional plastic cover or secured farther down on the body by a retaining clip. Take a moment to examine the fastening parts, then remove them using a screwdriver and\/or tongue-and-groove pliers. Remove or disassemble the valve to access all of the seals.\n\n**Find Replacement Parts**\n\nRubber seals, springs and other replaceable valve parts may be sold together as a kit (from the faucet manufacturer or an aftermarket supplier). Identifying the right parts by model number or written description may be difficult, so it’s best to find the part that looks exactly like the one in your hand. This means you have to bring all of the parts with you to the hardware store or home center.\n\nWashers, O-rings and other rubber seals are also sold individually or in assortment packs. With cartridge and cylinder-type valves, often it’s best to replace the whole cartridge or cylinder, if available, plus any additional seals or springs.\n\n**Reassemble the Faucet**\n\nPut the faucet back together in the reverse order of the disassembly. Don’t force anything; if a part doesn’t seem to fit, it’s probably not aligned properly. Cartridges often have a little plastic tab that fits into a notch on the faucet body. For some seals, particularly O-rings that seal spouts, it’s a good idea to coat the rubber with a small amount of waterproof\/heatproof grease to ensure smooth motion.\n\nWith the faucet completely reassembled, open the handle(s) all the way, then slowly open the shutoff valves on the supply lines. The faucet might sputter as air passes through it, so be prepared for loud noises (this blast of air can damage some faucets, which is why you open the handle valves first). Once the water is flowing, turn off the handles to test the repair.\n\nIf you'd prefer to skip the DIY, [hire a reliable, licensed plumber](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers) to fix that leaky faucet for you.\n\n24  \n SHARES\n\nLast Updated: Mar 17th 2026\n\n[Philip Schmidt](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/author\/philip-schmidt)\n\n##### Related Articles\n- [![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/90x70\/art_53fc50641a6fd.jpeg) Why Is Roto-Rooter a Go-To for Drain Cleaning?](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/article\/why-roto-rooter-is-a-household-word-for)\n- [![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/90x70\/smokedetector2_09a4db6f50d56701fb8f4139f3e43596.jpg) What Are the Fiery Hazards of Home Heating?](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/article\/the-fiery-hazards-of-home-heating)\n- [![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/90x70\/art_500864e9bfd94.jpeg) How Do You Unclog Your Sink's U-Bend?](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/article\/how-to-unclog-your-sinks-u-bend)\n\nLooking for a Pro? Call us at (866) 441-6648\n\n![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/42x42\/agent_5b7b28bc6047e.png)\n\n### Plumbing Average Costs\n- [Install a Water Heater](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/cost-guide\/install-a-water-heater)  [\\$1,149](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/cost-guide\/install-a-water-heater)\n- [Repair a Clogged Drain](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/cost-guide\/repair-a-clogged-drain)  [\\$246](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/cost-guide\/repair-a-clogged-drain)\n- [Hire a Plumber](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/cost-guide\/hire-a-plumber)  [\\$316](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/cost-guide\/hire-a-plumber)\n\n## Plumbers Experiences\n[![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/110x85\/art_56b1d12d24a85.jpeg) Emergency Plumbing Repair Of Collapsed Sewer Pipe](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/experience\/emergency-plumbing-repair-of-collapsed-s)\n\n[![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/110x85\/art_5828be24306eb.jpeg) Clearing A Bathtub Drain Makes It Run Smoother Than Ever](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/experience\/clearing-a-bathtub-drain-makes-it-run-sm)\n\n[![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/110x85\/art_577c1fb46eb10.jpeg) Garbage Disposal Replacement Just Before New Tenant Arrived](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/experience\/garbage-disposal-replacement-just-before4)\n\n## Top Cities Covered by our Plumbers\n[Austin](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/tx\/austin) \\| [Boston](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/ma\/boston) \\| [Chicago](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/il\/chicago) \\| [Columbus](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/oh\/columbus) \\| [Dallas](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/tx\/dallas) \\| [Denver](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/co\/denver) \\| [Detroit](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/mi\/detroit) \\| [El Paso](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/tx\/el-paso) \\| [Fort Worth](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/tx\/fort-worth) \\| [Houston](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/tx\/houston) \\| [Indianapolis](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/in\/indianapolis) \\| [Jacksonville](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/fl\/jacksonville) \\| [Los Angeles](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/ca\/los-angeles) \\| [Memphis](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/tn\/memphis) \\| [Nashville](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/tn\/nashville) \\| [New York](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/ny\/new-york) \\| [Philadelphia](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/pa\/philadelphia) \\| [Phoenix](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/az\/phoenix) \\| [Portland](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/or\/portland) \\| [San Antonio](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/tx\/san-antonio) \\| [San Diego](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/ca\/san-diego) \\| [San Francisco](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/ca\/san-francisco) \\| [San Jose](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/ca\/san-jose) \\| [Seattle](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/wa\/seattle) \\| [Washington](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers\/dc\/washington)\n\n- [Affiliate Program](https:\/\/affiliates.networx.com\/)\n- [How It Works](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/how-it-works)\n- [Write a Review](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/review\/company)\n- [Networx Pros Blog](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/blog)\n- [Careers](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/careers)\n- [About Us](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/about)\n- [Contact us](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/contact)\n\n## As Advertised On\n- ![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/resources\/images\/networx\/v2\/as-seen_logo_yahoo.png)\n- ![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/resources\/images\/networx\/v2\/as-seen_logo_hte_huf_post.png)\n- ![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/resources\/images\/networx\/v2\/as-seen_logo_philly_com.png)\n- ![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/resources\/images\/networx\/v2\/as-seen_logo_fox.png)\n- ![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/resources\/images\/networx\/v2\/as-seen_logo_mnn.png)\n- ![](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/resources\/images\/networx\/v2\/as-seen_logo_care2.png)\n\nAre you a pro?\n\n[Join us](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/generate-leads)  or  [Sign in](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/login)\n\nJoin us on\n\n- [Terms & Conditions](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/terms-use) \\|[Privacy Policy](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/privacy)\\|[Do Not Sell My Personal Info](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/do-not-sell)\\|[Accessibility Tools]()\n- © Copyright 2026 Networx Systems, Inc. All Rights Reserved","attrs_readable_markdown":"![Stephen Davies\/stock.xchng](https:\/\/cdn.networx.com\/media\/275x210\/drippingfaucet_00348667bf2a72de0f6e8aa73b5585b9.jpg)More than 9 times out of 10, a leaky faucet is caused by a little rubber seal inside, such as a washer or O-ring, which has worn out from use. If this is the case, DIY faucet repair is a simple matter of replacing the worn-out seal. Just keep in mind the two most important rules about fixing faucets: 1) use exact replacement parts, and 2) pay attention (and maybe snap a couple of photos) when taking apart the faucet so you can put it back together in the same way.\n\nFollow these steps for DIY repair of a leaky faucet:\n\n**Identify the Source of the Leak**\n\nIf water is dripping from the [faucet](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/article\/understand-your-faucet) spout, the problem is in the faucet handle (or more accurately, the valve the handle controls). Feel the water coming out to see whether it’s hot or cold. If it’s a two-handle faucet, hot water dripping indicates the “hot” handle needs a repair, and cold indicates the “cold” side is bum. You can choose to fix just the one side, but often it’s best to do both, since the other side is likely to be on its last legs anyway. With most single-handle faucets, it doesn’t matter if it leaks just hot or cold; you’ll be accessing both sides at the same time so it makes sense to replace all of the seals.\n\nIf the leaky faucet has a movable spout, like all kitchen [faucets](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/article\/faucet-tap-or-spigot) have, and the plumbing leak is at the base of the spout, it’s probably the O-ring(s) sealing it to the faucet body and not a bad handle valve. However, since you have to disassemble the faucet to replace the O-ring(s), you might consider replacing the handle valve parts while you’re at it.\n\n**Remove the Handle and Valve**\n\nVERY IMPORTANT: Turn off the hot **and** cold water supply to the [leaky](https:\/\/www.epa.gov\/watersense\/fix-leak-week) faucet by closing the shutoff valves under the sink—that is, turn the little football-shaped handles to the right until they stop.\n\nOpen the faucet handles to release any trapped air or water. Expose each handle screw by prying off any decorative (“H” or “C”) cap with a screwdriver. If there’s no cap, look for a setscrew on the side of the handle. Unscrew the handle, then lift it off and set it aside.\n\nYour faucet valve will be one of several different types, including a metal spindle (compression type), a plastic cartridge or disc, or a ball covering two holes integrated into the faucet body. In any case, it’s probably held in place by a threaded cap or nut and may be underneath an additional plastic cover or secured farther down on the body by a retaining clip. Take a moment to examine the fastening parts, then remove them using a screwdriver and\/or tongue-and-groove pliers. Remove or disassemble the valve to access all of the seals.\n\n**Find Replacement Parts**\n\nRubber seals, springs and other replaceable valve parts may be sold together as a kit (from the faucet manufacturer or an aftermarket supplier). Identifying the right parts by model number or written description may be difficult, so it’s best to find the part that looks exactly like the one in your hand. This means you have to bring all of the parts with you to the hardware store or home center.\n\nWashers, O-rings and other rubber seals are also sold individually or in assortment packs. With cartridge and cylinder-type valves, often it’s best to replace the whole cartridge or cylinder, if available, plus any additional seals or springs.\n\n**Reassemble the Faucet**\n\nPut the faucet back together in the reverse order of the disassembly. Don’t force anything; if a part doesn’t seem to fit, it’s probably not aligned properly. Cartridges often have a little plastic tab that fits into a notch on the faucet body. For some seals, particularly O-rings that seal spouts, it’s a good idea to coat the rubber with a small amount of waterproof\/heatproof grease to ensure smooth motion.\n\nWith the faucet completely reassembled, open the handle(s) all the way, then slowly open the shutoff valves on the supply lines. The faucet might sputter as air passes through it, so be prepared for loud noises (this blast of air can damage some faucets, which is why you open the handle valves first). Once the water is flowing, turn off the handles to test the repair.\n\nIf you'd prefer to skip the DIY, [hire a reliable, licensed plumber](https:\/\/www.networx.com\/plumbers) to fix that leaky faucet for you.","meta_canonical":null}

3. Robots.txt Check

Query:

Response:

4. Spam/Ban Check

Query:

Response:

5. Seen Status Check

ℹ️ Skipped - page is already crawled

📄

INDEXABLE

✅

CRAWLED

7 days ago

🤖

ROBOTS ALLOWED

Page Info Filters

Filter	Status	Condition	Details
HTTP status	PASS	`download_http_code = 200`	HTTP 200
Age cutoff	PASS	`download_stamp > now() - 6 MONTH`	0.3 months ago
History drop	PASS	`isNull(history_drop_reason)`	No drop reason
Spam/ban	PASS	`fh_dont_index != 1 AND ml_spam_score = 0`	ml_spam_score=0
Canonical	PASS	`meta_canonical IS NULL OR = '' OR = src_unparsed`	Not set

Page Details

Property	Value
URL	https://www.networx.com/article/how-to-fix-a-leaky-faucet
Last Crawled	2026-03-31 19:53:47 (7 days ago)
First Indexed	2018-01-22 13:54:34 (8 years ago)
HTTP Status Code	200
Meta Title	How Do You Fix a Leaky Faucet? \| Networx
Meta Description	DIY leaky faucet repair -- for when your sink is drip, drip, dripping.
Meta Canonical	null
Boilerpipe Text	More than 9 times out of 10, a leaky faucet is caused by a little rubber seal inside, such as a washer or O-ring, which has worn out from use. If this is the case, DIY faucet repair is a simple matter of replacing the worn-out seal. Just keep in mind the two most important rules about fixing faucets: 1) use exact replacement parts, and 2) pay attention (and maybe snap a couple of photos) when taking apart the faucet so you can put it back together in the same way. Follow these steps for DIY repair of a leaky faucet: Identify the Source of the Leak If water is dripping from the faucet spout, the problem is in the faucet handle (or more accurately, the valve the handle controls). Feel the water coming out to see whether it’s hot or cold. If it’s a two-handle faucet, hot water dripping indicates the “hot” handle needs a repair, and cold indicates the “cold” side is bum. You can choose to fix just the one side, but often it’s best to do both, since the other side is likely to be on its last legs anyway. With most single-handle faucets, it doesn’t matter if it leaks just hot or cold; you’ll be accessing both sides at the same time so it makes sense to replace all of the seals. If the leaky faucet has a movable spout, like all kitchen faucets have, and the plumbing leak is at the base of the spout, it’s probably the O-ring(s) sealing it to the faucet body and not a bad handle valve. However, since you have to disassemble the faucet to replace the O-ring(s), you might consider replacing the handle valve parts while you’re at it. Remove the Handle and Valve VERY IMPORTANT: Turn off the hot and cold water supply to the leaky faucet by closing the shutoff valves under the sink—that is, turn the little football-shaped handles to the right until they stop. Open the faucet handles to release any trapped air or water. Expose each handle screw by prying off any decorative (“H” or “C”) cap with a screwdriver. If there’s no cap, look for a setscrew on the side of the handle. Unscrew the handle, then lift it off and set it aside. Your faucet valve will be one of several different types, including a metal spindle (compression type), a plastic cartridge or disc, or a ball covering two holes integrated into the faucet body. In any case, it’s probably held in place by a threaded cap or nut and may be underneath an additional plastic cover or secured farther down on the body by a retaining clip. Take a moment to examine the fastening parts, then remove them using a screwdriver and/or tongue-and-groove pliers. Remove or disassemble the valve to access all of the seals. Find Replacement Parts Rubber seals, springs and other replaceable valve parts may be sold together as a kit (from the faucet manufacturer or an aftermarket supplier). Identifying the right parts by model number or written description may be difficult, so it’s best to find the part that looks exactly like the one in your hand. This means you have to bring all of the parts with you to the hardware store or home center. Washers, O-rings and other rubber seals are also sold individually or in assortment packs. With cartridge and cylinder-type valves, often it’s best to replace the whole cartridge or cylinder, if available, plus any additional seals or springs. Reassemble the Faucet Put the faucet back together in the reverse order of the disassembly. Don’t force anything; if a part doesn’t seem to fit, it’s probably not aligned properly. Cartridges often have a little plastic tab that fits into a notch on the faucet body. For some seals, particularly O-rings that seal spouts, it’s a good idea to coat the rubber with a small amount of waterproof/heatproof grease to ensure smooth motion. With the faucet completely reassembled, open the handle(s) all the way, then slowly open the shutoff valves on the supply lines. The faucet might sputter as air passes through it, so be prepared for loud noises (this blast of air can damage some faucets, which is why you open the handle valves first). Once the water is flowing, turn off the handles to test the repair. If you'd prefer to skip the DIY, hire a reliable, licensed plumber to fix that leaky faucet for you.
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If this is the case, DIY faucet repair is a simple matter of replacing the worn-out seal. Just keep in mind the two most important rules about fixing faucets: 1) use exact replacement parts, and 2) pay attention (and maybe snap a couple of photos) when taking apart the faucet so you can put it back together in the same way. Follow these steps for DIY repair of a leaky faucet: Identify the Source of the Leak If water is dripping from the [faucet](https://www.networx.com/article/understand-your-faucet) spout, the problem is in the faucet handle (or more accurately, the valve the handle controls). Feel the water coming out to see whether it’s hot or cold. If it’s a two-handle faucet, hot water dripping indicates the “hot” handle needs a repair, and cold indicates the “cold” side is bum. You can choose to fix just the one side, but often it’s best to do both, since the other side is likely to be on its last legs anyway. With most single-handle faucets, it doesn’t matter if it leaks just hot or cold; you’ll be accessing both sides at the same time so it makes sense to replace all of the seals. If the leaky faucet has a movable spout, like all kitchen [faucets](https://www.networx.com/article/faucet-tap-or-spigot) have, and the plumbing leak is at the base of the spout, it’s probably the O-ring(s) sealing it to the faucet body and not a bad handle valve. However, since you have to disassemble the faucet to replace the O-ring(s), you might consider replacing the handle valve parts while you’re at it. Remove the Handle and Valve VERY IMPORTANT: Turn off the hot and cold water supply to the [leaky](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) faucet by closing the shutoff valves under the sink—that is, turn the little football-shaped handles to the right until they stop. Open the faucet handles to release any trapped air or water. Expose each handle screw by prying off any decorative (“H” or “C”) cap with a screwdriver. If there’s no cap, look for a setscrew on the side of the handle. Unscrew the handle, then lift it off and set it aside. Your faucet valve will be one of several different types, including a metal spindle (compression type), a plastic cartridge or disc, or a ball covering two holes integrated into the faucet body. In any case, it’s probably held in place by a threaded cap or nut and may be underneath an additional plastic cover or secured farther down on the body by a retaining clip. Take a moment to examine the fastening parts, then remove them using a screwdriver and/or tongue-and-groove pliers. Remove or disassemble the valve to access all of the seals. Find Replacement Parts Rubber seals, springs and other replaceable valve parts may be sold together as a kit (from the faucet manufacturer or an aftermarket supplier). Identifying the right parts by model number or written description may be difficult, so it’s best to find the part that looks exactly like the one in your hand. This means you have to bring all of the parts with you to the hardware store or home center. Washers, O-rings and other rubber seals are also sold individually or in assortment packs. With cartridge and cylinder-type valves, often it’s best to replace the whole cartridge or cylinder, if available, plus any additional seals or springs. Reassemble the Faucet Put the faucet back together in the reverse order of the disassembly. Don’t force anything; if a part doesn’t seem to fit, it’s probably not aligned properly. Cartridges often have a little plastic tab that fits into a notch on the faucet body. For some seals, particularly O-rings that seal spouts, it’s a good idea to coat the rubber with a small amount of waterproof/heatproof grease to ensure smooth motion. With the faucet completely reassembled, open the handle(s) all the way, then slowly open the shutoff valves on the supply lines. The faucet might sputter as air passes through it, so be prepared for loud noises (this blast of air can damage some faucets, which is why you open the handle valves first). Once the water is flowing, turn off the handles to test the repair. If you'd prefer to skip the DIY, [hire a reliable, licensed plumber](https://www.networx.com/plumbers) to fix that leaky faucet for you. 24 SHARES Last Updated: Mar 17th 2026 [Philip Schmidt](https://www.networx.com/author/philip-schmidt) ##### Related Articles - [![](https://cdn.networx.com/media/90x70/art_53fc50641a6fd.jpeg) Why Is Roto-Rooter a Go-To for Drain Cleaning?](https://www.networx.com/article/why-roto-rooter-is-a-household-word-for) - [![](https://cdn.networx.com/media/90x70/smokedetector2_09a4db6f50d56701fb8f4139f3e43596.jpg) What Are the Fiery Hazards of Home Heating?](https://www.networx.com/article/the-fiery-hazards-of-home-heating) - [![](https://cdn.networx.com/media/90x70/art_500864e9bfd94.jpeg) How Do You Unclog Your Sink's U-Bend?](https://www.networx.com/article/how-to-unclog-your-sinks-u-bend) Looking for a Pro? 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Readable Markdown	![Stephen Davies/stock.xchng](https://cdn.networx.com/media/275x210/drippingfaucet_00348667bf2a72de0f6e8aa73b5585b9.jpg)More than 9 times out of 10, a leaky faucet is caused by a little rubber seal inside, such as a washer or O-ring, which has worn out from use. If this is the case, DIY faucet repair is a simple matter of replacing the worn-out seal. Just keep in mind the two most important rules about fixing faucets: 1) use exact replacement parts, and 2) pay attention (and maybe snap a couple of photos) when taking apart the faucet so you can put it back together in the same way. Follow these steps for DIY repair of a leaky faucet: Identify the Source of the Leak If water is dripping from the [faucet](https://www.networx.com/article/understand-your-faucet) spout, the problem is in the faucet handle (or more accurately, the valve the handle controls). Feel the water coming out to see whether it’s hot or cold. If it’s a two-handle faucet, hot water dripping indicates the “hot” handle needs a repair, and cold indicates the “cold” side is bum. You can choose to fix just the one side, but often it’s best to do both, since the other side is likely to be on its last legs anyway. With most single-handle faucets, it doesn’t matter if it leaks just hot or cold; you’ll be accessing both sides at the same time so it makes sense to replace all of the seals. If the leaky faucet has a movable spout, like all kitchen [faucets](https://www.networx.com/article/faucet-tap-or-spigot) have, and the plumbing leak is at the base of the spout, it’s probably the O-ring(s) sealing it to the faucet body and not a bad handle valve. However, since you have to disassemble the faucet to replace the O-ring(s), you might consider replacing the handle valve parts while you’re at it. Remove the Handle and Valve VERY IMPORTANT: Turn off the hot and cold water supply to the [leaky](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) faucet by closing the shutoff valves under the sink—that is, turn the little football-shaped handles to the right until they stop. Open the faucet handles to release any trapped air or water. Expose each handle screw by prying off any decorative (“H” or “C”) cap with a screwdriver. If there’s no cap, look for a setscrew on the side of the handle. Unscrew the handle, then lift it off and set it aside. Your faucet valve will be one of several different types, including a metal spindle (compression type), a plastic cartridge or disc, or a ball covering two holes integrated into the faucet body. In any case, it’s probably held in place by a threaded cap or nut and may be underneath an additional plastic cover or secured farther down on the body by a retaining clip. Take a moment to examine the fastening parts, then remove them using a screwdriver and/or tongue-and-groove pliers. Remove or disassemble the valve to access all of the seals. Find Replacement Parts Rubber seals, springs and other replaceable valve parts may be sold together as a kit (from the faucet manufacturer or an aftermarket supplier). Identifying the right parts by model number or written description may be difficult, so it’s best to find the part that looks exactly like the one in your hand. This means you have to bring all of the parts with you to the hardware store or home center. Washers, O-rings and other rubber seals are also sold individually or in assortment packs. With cartridge and cylinder-type valves, often it’s best to replace the whole cartridge or cylinder, if available, plus any additional seals or springs. Reassemble the Faucet Put the faucet back together in the reverse order of the disassembly. Don’t force anything; if a part doesn’t seem to fit, it’s probably not aligned properly. Cartridges often have a little plastic tab that fits into a notch on the faucet body. For some seals, particularly O-rings that seal spouts, it’s a good idea to coat the rubber with a small amount of waterproof/heatproof grease to ensure smooth motion. With the faucet completely reassembled, open the handle(s) all the way, then slowly open the shutoff valves on the supply lines. The faucet might sputter as air passes through it, so be prepared for loud noises (this blast of air can damage some faucets, which is why you open the handle valves first). Once the water is flowing, turn off the handles to test the repair. If you'd prefer to skip the DIY, [hire a reliable, licensed plumber](https://www.networx.com/plumbers) to fix that leaky faucet for you.
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