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1. Shard Calculation

Query:

Response:

Calculated Shard: 31 (from laksa068)

2. Crawled Status Check

Query:

curl -X POST \
  'http://laksa031.int.ahrefs:8124/' \
  -H 'Content-Type: text/plain' \
  -H 'X-ClickHouse-Database: crawler3' \
  -H 'Authorization: Basic YXBpOg==' \
  -d 'SELECT getAhrefsURLFromUnparsed(src_unparsed) AS found_url, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(download_stamp), 0) AS crawl_time, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(props_url_first_seen), 0) AS first_indexed_time, download_http_code AS http_code, src_unparsed AS src_unparsed, src_root_hash AS src_root_hash, history_drop_reason AS history_drop_reason, meta_title AS meta_title, meta_descriptions AS meta_descriptions, attrs_boilerpipe_text AS attrs_boilerpipe_text, attrs_markdown AS attrs_markdown, attrs_readable_markdown AS attrs_readable_markdown, meta_canonical AS meta_canonical FROM crawler3.page_info_local FINAL PREWHERE (src_root_hash, src_unparsed) IN ((getAhrefsRootHashFromUnparsed(getAhrefsUnparsedNoserviceFromURL(\'https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/techniques-tools-articles/tree-planting-8741\')), getAhrefsUnparsedNoserviceFromURL(\'https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/techniques-tools-articles/tree-planting-8741\'))) FORMAT JSONEachRow'

Response:

{"found_url":"https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles\/tree-planting-8741","crawl_time":1775745181,"first_indexed_time":1759361445,"http_code":200,"src_unparsed":"com,gardeners!www,\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles\/tree-planting-8741 s443","src_root_hash":"4734183668786225031","history_drop_reason":null,"meta_title":"How to Plant a Tree or Shrub, Tree-Planting, Bushes | Gardener's Supply","meta_descriptions":["Planting trees and shrubs too deep is the No. 1 reason that they die in landscapes. Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth."],"attrs_boilerpipe_text":"Written By\nGardener's Supply Co.\nMar 27, 2025\n5 min read\nTrees shade and cool our streets, provide habitat for our wildlife, add beauty to our neighborhoods and yards, and\nremove tons of carbon dioxide\nfrom the atmosphere. The simple act of planting a tree in your yard, neighborhood, school, or watershed will do wonders for the health of our planet and\nourselves\n.\nProper planting is critical to their survival and long-term success.\nDigging the Hole\nPlanting too deep is the top reason that trees and shrubs die. Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth for both balled-and-burlapped (B&B) and potted trees.\nLocate the point at which the trunk flares out to join the roots. On B&B trees, remove the twine and burlap at the base of the trunk. If necessary, gently push the soil away from the base of the trunk to find the flare.\nMeasure the distance from the bottom of the root mass to the trunk flare. Dig the hole no deeper than this; you want the root mass to sit on undisturbed soil. When planting is complete, the trunk flare should be slightly above the existing soil grade.\nDig the hole two to three times the diameter of the root ball or container, sloping the sides gently outward to the existing soil grade.\nPlanting\nWhen moving your plant into the planting hole, disturb the rootball as little as possible. Lift B&B trees and shrubs by using the rope, burlap or wire cage on the rootball. Lift potted plants by grasping the container. Don't lift plants by the trunk, stems or branches. Don't allow the root system to dry out before or during planting.\nThe thinking on backfill has changed in recent years. Although it was once common to modify the backfill soil with amendments — such as compost, peat moss, aged manure and other ingredients — it is now considered best practice to leave the backfill unaltered or add minimal amendments. This encourages roots to spread out into the native soil, rather than staying within the confines of the planting hole.\nWe do recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi to the backfill. Mycorrhizal fungi form associations with plant roots and help them extract and absorb minerals and water from the soil. Trees and shrubs with mycorrhizal-enhanced root systems adapt better and are more tolerant of stressful environments. Bone meal provides essential minerals that promote sturdy root systems and stimulate plant growth.\nB&B trees and shrubs\nPlace the tree in the center of the hole. If necessary, straighten or stabilize the tree by adjusting or filling beneath the root ball with the backfill mix.\nCut away any twine or burlap from the base of the trunk and remove any burlap that is on the top of the rootball. Remove excess soil from the top of the rootball to expose the trunk flare, if needed.\nUse bolt cutters to remove as much of the wire basket as possible. Don't try to remove the entire wire basket. The plant will thrive even if there is some of the basket left in the hole. Remove all the rope and twine from the rootball, as well as any nails holding the burlap together. Pull back the burlap and cut away any loose material. It's OK to leave some burlap in the hole to decompose. However, remove all plastic or treated burlap.\nPotted trees and shrubs\nTip the container on its side and slide the plant from the container. Place the plant in the hole by lifting the root mass, not the plant itself. If the plant has become pot-bound, it may be necessary to cut the container before the plant can be removed.\nTo encourage root growth, tease the outer roots from the soil. If the roots are tightly matted, use a knife to score the root mass in several places and gently loosen the root ball. This won't harm the plant and will encourage new root growth.\nBackfilling\nAdd backfill soil to your planting hole until it comes about halfway up the root ball. Use your foot or hands to firm the soil and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the trunk is vertical and confirm that the trunk flare will sit slight above soil grade once backfilling is complete. Continue adding backfill and packing it down until you've reached the top of the root ball, taking care not to cover the trunk flare.\nConstruct a 3\" - 4\" high ridge of soil around the outer edge of the planting hole. This berm will create a basin to hold irrigation water and concentrate it over the roots. Use a hose to fill the basin, then allow the water to soak it, repeating several times. Or, let the water run at a trickle for 15 to 30 minutes to ensure that the entire root zone is moist. The goal is to ensure even watering so the soil is drenched and any large air pockets are eliminated.\nRecheck that the trunk flare is completely exposed and the top of the root ball has not been covered with additional soil. Remove any plant tags or labels from the tree.\nMulching\nApply bark mulch or pine straw to a depth of 2\" - 3\" over the entire planting hole. Mulching helps conserve water and prevent weeds. Taper the mulch toward the base of the tree, but do not allow it to touch the tree trunk.\nStaking\nStaking at planting time is not always necessary. Consider the stability of the rootball, trunk size and strength, direction of prevailing winds, canopy size and density when determining whether or not to stake. If in doubt, ask a nursery professional.\nFertilizing\nWe do not recommend fertilizing newly planted trees and shrubs during their first year of growth.\nWatering\nProper moisture is critical to the survival of your young tree or shrub. The roots should never dry out completely, nor should they be waterlogged.\nThe best way to check soil moisture? Use your finger.\nDig down 2\" to 4\" just outside the root mass of the plant and water if the soil feels dry. Newly planted shrubs and trees should be checked and watered every other day for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks, limit watering to once a week if less than 1\" of rain falls during the week. Thorough soakings that moisten the soil to the entire depth of the root mass are better than frequent light waterings.\nA newly-planted, tree-form hydrangea with\nSnip-n-Drip\nsoaker hose for watering.\nUse the chart below as a guideline for the amount of water needed by newly planted trees and shrubs based upon plant size.\nPlant species have varying water requirements. Before watering according to the chart, use your finger to check actual soil moisture and get familiar with the moisture requirements of your plants.\nPlant Size\nAmount of Water per Application\nSmall shrub\n4-5 gal.\nLarge shrub\n7-10 gal.\nSmall trees (<2\" caliper)\n7-10 gal.\nLarge trees (>2\" caliper)\n1020 gallons\nWater measurements can be made using an old 1-gallon plastic milk container. When using a hose, turn on the water at a slow trickle and take note of the setting. Count the amount of time it takes to fill the 1-gallon container. Multiply that amount of time by the number of gallons you need for your plant. That total provides the amount of time you need to run the hose, based on the chart.","attrs_markdown":"**All Orders Over \\$199 Ship Free\\!**\n\n[Skip to content](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles\/tree-planting-8741#main)\n\n[![Gardener's Supply Company](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/GSC_LogoStandard_RGB_Web.webp?v=1754665318&width=320) Gardeners Supply](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/)\n\nSearch…\n\n[Log in](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/account)\n\n[\\$0.00](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cart)\n\n[![Gardener's Supply Company](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/GSC_LogoStandard_RGB_Web.webp?v=1754665318&width=320) Gardeners Supply](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/)\n\nSearch…\n\n[Best Sellers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/best-sellers)\n\n[Gardening Tips](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/advice)\n\nEdible Gardening  [Growing Fruits & Vegetables](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/fruit-vegetable-articles) [Harvest 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Amaryllis & Bulbs](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/waxed-amaryllis-bulbs)\n- [Home & Kitchen](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-living)\n- [Harvest Keeping](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/kitchen-harvest)\n- [Baskets & Buckets](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/baskets-buckets)\n- [Harvest Storage](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/kitchen-harvest)\n- [Herb Drying & Storage](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/herb-drying-storage)\n- [Home Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/home-decorating)\n- [Boot Trays](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/boot-trays)\n- [Indoor\/Outdoor Rugs & Mats](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-rugs-mats)\n- [Indoor Pest Controls](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-pest-controls)\n- [Indoor Insect Controls](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/fruit-flies-bugs)\n- [Kitchen Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/kitchen-tools-prep)\n- [Compost Pails](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/compost-pails)\n- [Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-gardeners)\n- [GIFT CARDS](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/products\/e-gift-card)\n- [Blooming Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/blooming-gifts)\n- [Amaryllis Gift Collection](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/amaryllis-gift-collection)\n- [Gifts by Price](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-by-price)\n- [Gifts under \\$25](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-gifts-under-25)\n- [Gifts \\$25 - \\$49](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-gifts-25-to-49)\n- [Gifts \\$50 - \\$99](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-gifts-50-to-99)\n- [Gifts \\$100-\\$199](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-gifts-100-to-199)\n- [Premium Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/premium-gifts)\n- [Gifts by Gardener](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gardeners-gift-ideas)\n- [Beginner Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-beginner-gardeners)\n- [Flower Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-flower-gardeners)\n- [Indoor Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-gardening-gifts)\n- [Senior Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/adaptive-gardening-gifts)\n- [Gifts by Interest](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-by-interest)\n- [Family Fun](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-family-fun)\n- [Garden Decor Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-decor-gifts)\n- [Kitchen Gear & DIY Food Kits](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-gardeners)\n- [Nature & Birding](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-gardeners)\n- [Gifts by Recipient](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-by-recipient)\n- [Gifts for Grandma](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-grandma)\n- [Gifts for Men](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-men)\n- [Gifts for Women](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-women)\n- [Gifts by Occasion](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-by-occasion)\n- [Gardening Gift Basket](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gardening-gift-basket)\n- [Housewarming Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/housewarming-gifts)\n- [Retirement Gifts for Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/retirement-gifts-for-gardeners)\n- [Sale](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gardeners-supply-outlet)\n\n### Other Articles\n- [Garden Supplies](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gardening)\n  \n  [Garden Tools](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-tools)\n  \n  - [Accessories & Storage](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/accessories-and-storage)\n  - [Garden Kneelers & Pads](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-kneelers-and-pads)\n  - [Hand Tools](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/hand-tools)\n  - [Potting Benches](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/potting-benches)\n  - [Pruners & Loppers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/landscaping-pruners-and-loppers)\n  - [Trugs & Harvest Baskets](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/trugs-harvest-baskets)\n  \n  [Pest & Disease Controls](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/outdoor-pest-controls)\n  \n  - [Animal Controls](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/animal-controls)\n  - [Fences & Barriers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/pest-control-fences)\n  - [Insect Controls](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-insect-controls)\n  \n  [Composters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/composting)\n  \n  - [Compost Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/compost-accessories)\n  - [Compost Bins & Tumblers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/composters)\n  \n  [Season Extenders](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/season-extending)\n  \n  - [Cold Frames](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/cold-frames)\n  - [Greenhouse Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/greenhouse-accessories)\n  - [Greenhouse Kits](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/greenhouse-kits)\n  - [Plant Protectors & Row Covers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-protectors-garden-row-covers)\n  \n  [Soils & Fertilizers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/potting-soil-and-fertilizers)\n  \n  - [Potting Soil Mixes](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/potting-soil-mixes)\n  - [Seed Starting Soils](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/seed-starting-mixes-fertilizers)\n  - [Soil Amendments](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/soil-amendments)\n  - [Seed Starting Supplies](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/seed-starting-supplies)\n  \n  [Watering & Irrigation](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/watering)\n  \n  - [Hose Reels & Organizers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/hose-organizers)\n  - [Hoses](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-hoses)\n  - [Irrigation Systems](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/snip-n-drip-watering)\n  - [Nozzles & Sprayers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/nozzles-and-sprayers)\n  - [Rain Barrels](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/rain-barrels)\n  - [Sprinklers & Timers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/sprinklers-timers)\n  - [Watering Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/watering-accessories)\n  - [Watering Cans](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/watering-cans)\n  \n  [Landscaping Tools & Supplies](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/yard-and-landscaping)\n  \n  - [Edgings & Mulches](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/edging-and-mulches)\n  - [Fences & Privacy Screens](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-fences)\n  - [Lawn Care](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/lawn-care)\n  - [Leaf Collectors](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/yard-clean-up)\n  - [Stepping Stones](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/stepping-stones)\n  - [Weed Mats](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/mulches)\n  - [Wood Chippers & Leaf Shredders](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/chippers-shredders)\n  - [Mosquito Wasp & Tick Controls](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/mosquito-and-wasp-controls)\n- [Planters & Raised Beds](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/planters-and-raised-beds)\n  \n  [Raised Beds](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/raised-bed-gardening-and-garden-boxes)\n  \n  - [Corners & Connectors](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/raised-bed-corners)\n  - [Raised Bed Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/raised-bed-accessories)\n  - [Raised Garden Beds](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/raised-garden-beds)\n  \n  [Elevated Garden Beds](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/elevated-garden-beds)\n  \n  - [Elevated Planters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/elevated-planters)\n  - [VegTrugs®](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/vegtrug-raised-beds)\n  - [Potting Benches](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/potting-benches)\n  - [Elevated Planter Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/elevated-planter-accessories)\n  - [Window Boxes](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/window-boxes)\n  \n  [Plant Stands, Caddies & Trays](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-stands-caddies-and-trays)\n  \n  - [Indoor Plant Stands](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-plant-stands)\n  - [Outdoor Plant Stands](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/outdoor-plant-stands-new)\n  - [Plant Caddies & Planter Trays](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-caddies-and-planter-trays)\n  - [Plant Stands](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-stands)\n  \n  [Pots & Planters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/outdoor-planters)\n  \n  - [Grow Bags](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/grow-bags)\n  - [Hanging Planters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/hanging-planters)\n  - [Indoor Pots & Planters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-planters)\n  - [Patio Planters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/patio-planters)\n  - [Plant Trays & Saucers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-saucers-trays)\n  - [Planter Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/planter-accessories)\n  - [Railing Planters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/railing-planters)\n  - [Self-Watering Planters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/self-watering-planters)\n  - [Tomato Planters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/tomato-planters)\n  - [Window Boxes](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/window-boxes)\n- [Plant Supports](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-supports)\n  \n  [Arches & Arbors](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/arches-and-arbors) [Flower Supports & Trellises](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/flower-supports-and-trellises) [Plant Support Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-support-accessories) [Tomato Cages & Supports](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/tomato-cage-supports) [Vegetable Supports & Trellises](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/vegetable-supports)\n- [Yard & Outdoors](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/outdoor-living)\n  \n  [Backyard Habitat](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/backyard-habitat)\n  \n  - [Bird Feeders](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/bird-feeders)\n  - [Wildlife Shelters](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/bee-and-butterfly-habitat)\n  \n  [Outdoor Living](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/outdoor-furniture)\n  \n  - [Garden Benches & Chairs](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/outdoor-benches)\n  - [Outdoor Kitchen](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/outdoor-kitchen)\n  - [Seating & Cushions](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/seating-and-cushions)\n  \n  [Yard & Garden Decor](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/yard-garden-decor)\n  \n  - [Arches & Arbors](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/arches-and-arbors)\n  - [Chimes](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/chimes)\n  - [Decorative Garden Stakes](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/decorative-garden-stakes)\n  - [Fountains](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-fountains)\n  - [Outdoor Wall Decor](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/outdoor-wall-decor)\n  - [Pond Accents](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/pond-accents)\n  - [Rain Chains](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/weather-tools)\n  - [Spinners & Mobiles](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/spinners-and-mobiles)\n  - [Statues & Sculptures](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/statues-and-sculptures)\n  - [Trellises & Obelisks](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/trellises-and-obelisks)\n  - [Garden Edgings](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-edgings)\n- [Indoor Garden](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-gardening)\n  \n  [Grow Lights & Stands](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/grow-lights-and-stands)\n  \n  - [Bamboo Grow Lights](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/bamboo-led-grow-lights)\n  - [Grow Lamps & Fixtures](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/grow-light-fixtures-bulbs)\n  - [Grow Light Bulbs & Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/grow-light-accessories)\n  - [Grow Lights](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/grow-lights)\n  - [Oslo Grow Lights](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/oslo-grow-lights)\n  - [Sunlite Grow Lights](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/sunlite-grow-lights)\n  - [Tabletop Grow Lights](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/tabletop-grow-lights)\n  - [Seed Starting Supplies](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/seed-starting-supplies)\n  \n  [Houseplant Supplies](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/houseplant-supplies)\n  \n  - [Indoor Pest & Disease Control](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/houseplant-pest-disease-controls)\n  - [Soils & Fertilizers for Houseplants](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/houseplant-soils-fertilizers)\n  - [Watering Cans & Tools](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-watering-cans)\n  - [Plant Stands & Trays](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-stands-trays)\n  - [Plant Caddies & Planter Trays](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-caddies)\n  - [Plant Stands](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/plant-stands)\n  \n  [Amaryllis & Flowers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/amaryllis-flowers)\n  \n  - [Potted Amaryllis](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/potted-amaryllis)\n  - [Waxed Amaryllis & Bulbs](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/waxed-amaryllis-bulbs)\n  \n  [Home & Kitchen](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-living)\n  \n  - [Harvest Keeping](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/kitchen-harvest)\n  - [Baskets & Buckets](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/baskets-buckets)\n  - [Harvest Storage](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/kitchen-harvest)\n  - [Herb Drying & Storage](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/herb-drying-storage)\n  - [Home Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/home-decorating)\n  - [Boot Trays](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/boot-trays)\n  - [Indoor\/Outdoor Rugs & Mats](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-rugs-mats)\n  - [Indoor Pest Controls](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-pest-controls)\n  - [Indoor Insect Controls](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/fruit-flies-bugs)\n  - [Kitchen Accessories](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/kitchen-tools-prep)\n  - [Compost Pails](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/compost-pails)\n- [Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-gardeners)\n  \n  [GIFT CARDS](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/products\/e-gift-card) [Blooming Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/blooming-gifts)\n  \n  [Gifts by Price](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-by-price)\n  \n  - [Gifts under \\$25](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-gifts-under-25)\n  - [Gifts \\$25 - \\$49](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-gifts-25-to-49)\n  - [Gifts \\$50 - \\$99](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-gifts-50-to-99)\n  - [Gifts \\$100-\\$199](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-gifts-100-to-199)\n  - [Premium Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/premium-gifts)\n  \n  [Gifts by Gardener](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gardeners-gift-ideas)\n  \n  - [Beginner Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-beginner-gardeners)\n  - [Flower Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-flower-gardeners)\n  - [Indoor Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/indoor-gardening-gifts)\n  - [Senior Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/adaptive-gardening-gifts)\n  \n  [Gifts by Interest](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-by-interest)\n  \n  - [Family Fun](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-family-fun)\n  - [Garden Decor Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/garden-decor-gifts)\n  - [Kitchen Gear & DIY Food Kits](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-gardeners)\n  - [Nature & Birding](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-gardeners)\n  \n  [Gifts by Recipient](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-by-recipient)\n  \n  - [Gifts for Grandma](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-grandma)\n  - [Gifts for Men](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-men)\n  - [Gifts for Women](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-for-women)\n  \n  [Gifts by Occasion](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gifts-by-occasion)\n  \n  - [Gardening Gift Basket](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gardening-gift-basket)\n  - [Housewarming Gifts](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/housewarming-gifts)\n  - [Retirement Gifts for Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/retirement-gifts-for-gardeners)\n- [Sale](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/collections\/gardeners-supply-outlet)\n\n# How to Plant a Tree or Shrub\nWritten By [Gardener's Supply Co.](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/gardeners-supply-co)   Mar 27, 20255 min read\n\n![How to Plant a Tree or Shrub](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cdn\/shop\/articles\/8741-tree-planting.jpg?v=1754672377&width=320)\n\n![](https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0770\/9032\/4705\/files\/8741-tree-diagram.webp?v=1754061882)\n\nTrees shade and cool our streets, provide habitat for our wildlife, add beauty to our neighborhoods and yards, and [remove tons of carbon dioxide](https:\/\/www.fs.usda.gov\/learn\/trees) from the atmosphere. The simple act of planting a tree in your yard, neighborhood, school, or watershed will do wonders for the health of our planet and [ourselves](https:\/\/arbordayblog.org\/trees-and-wellness\/nature-and-savings-in-healthcare-costs\/).  \nProper planting is critical to their survival and long-term success.\n\n## Digging the Hole\nPlanting too deep is the top reason that trees and shrubs die. Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth for both balled-and-burlapped (B\\&B) and potted trees.\n\n1. Locate the point at which the trunk flares out to join the roots. On B\\&B trees, remove the twine and burlap at the base of the trunk. If necessary, gently push the soil away from the base of the trunk to find the flare.\n2. Measure the distance from the bottom of the root mass to the trunk flare. Dig the hole no deeper than this; you want the root mass to sit on undisturbed soil. When planting is complete, the trunk flare should be slightly above the existing soil grade.\n3. Dig the hole two to three times the diameter of the root ball or container, sloping the sides gently outward to the existing soil grade.\n## Planting\nWhen moving your plant into the planting hole, disturb the rootball as little as possible. Lift B\\&B trees and shrubs by using the rope, burlap or wire cage on the rootball. Lift potted plants by grasping the container. Don't lift plants by the trunk, stems or branches. Don't allow the root system to dry out before or during planting.\n\nThe thinking on backfill has changed in recent years. Although it was once common to modify the backfill soil with amendments — such as compost, peat moss, aged manure and other ingredients — it is now considered best practice to leave the backfill unaltered or add minimal amendments. This encourages roots to spread out into the native soil, rather than staying within the confines of the planting hole.\n\nWe do recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi to the backfill. Mycorrhizal fungi form associations with plant roots and help them extract and absorb minerals and water from the soil. Trees and shrubs with mycorrhizal-enhanced root systems adapt better and are more tolerant of stressful environments. Bone meal provides essential minerals that promote sturdy root systems and stimulate plant growth.\n\n### B\\&B trees and shrubs\n1. Place the tree in the center of the hole. If necessary, straighten or stabilize the tree by adjusting or filling beneath the root ball with the backfill mix.\n2. Cut away any twine or burlap from the base of the trunk and remove any burlap that is on the top of the rootball. Remove excess soil from the top of the rootball to expose the trunk flare, if needed.\n3. Use bolt cutters to remove as much of the wire basket as possible. Don't try to remove the entire wire basket. The plant will thrive even if there is some of the basket left in the hole. Remove all the rope and twine from the rootball, as well as any nails holding the burlap together. Pull back the burlap and cut away any loose material. It's OK to leave some burlap in the hole to decompose. However, remove all plastic or treated burlap.\n### Potted trees and shrubs\n1. Tip the container on its side and slide the plant from the container. Place the plant in the hole by lifting the root mass, not the plant itself. If the plant has become pot-bound, it may be necessary to cut the container before the plant can be removed.\n2. To encourage root growth, tease the outer roots from the soil. If the roots are tightly matted, use a knife to score the root mass in several places and gently loosen the root ball. This won't harm the plant and will encourage new root growth.\n## Backfilling\n1. Add backfill soil to your planting hole until it comes about halfway up the root ball. Use your foot or hands to firm the soil and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the trunk is vertical and confirm that the trunk flare will sit slight above soil grade once backfilling is complete. Continue adding backfill and packing it down until you've reached the top of the root ball, taking care not to cover the trunk flare.\n2. Construct a 3\" - 4\" high ridge of soil around the outer edge of the planting hole. This berm will create a basin to hold irrigation water and concentrate it over the roots. Use a hose to fill the basin, then allow the water to soak it, repeating several times. Or, let the water run at a trickle for 15 to 30 minutes to ensure that the entire root zone is moist. The goal is to ensure even watering so the soil is drenched and any large air pockets are eliminated.\n3. Recheck that the trunk flare is completely exposed and the top of the root ball has not been covered with additional soil. Remove any plant tags or labels from the tree.\n## Mulching\nApply bark mulch or pine straw to a depth of 2\" - 3\" over the entire planting hole. Mulching helps conserve water and prevent weeds. Taper the mulch toward the base of the tree, but do not allow it to touch the tree trunk.\n\n## Staking\nStaking at planting time is not always necessary. Consider the stability of the rootball, trunk size and strength, direction of prevailing winds, canopy size and density when determining whether or not to stake. If in doubt, ask a nursery professional.\n\n## Fertilizing\nWe do not recommend fertilizing newly planted trees and shrubs during their first year of growth.\n\n## Watering\nProper moisture is critical to the survival of your young tree or shrub. The roots should never dry out completely, nor should they be waterlogged. **The best way to check soil moisture? Use your finger.** Dig down 2\" to 4\" just outside the root mass of the plant and water if the soil feels dry. Newly planted shrubs and trees should be checked and watered every other day for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks, limit watering to once a week if less than 1\" of rain falls during the week. Thorough soakings that moisten the soil to the entire depth of the root mass are better than frequent light waterings.\n\n![](https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0770\/9032\/4705\/files\/8741-soaker-hose-at-base-of-tree.webp?v=1754061882)\n\nA newly-planted, tree-form hydrangea with [Snip-n-Drip](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/buy\/landscape-snip-n-drip-soaker-system\/8587044.html) soaker hose for watering.\n\nUse the chart below as a guideline for the amount of water needed by newly planted trees and shrubs based upon plant size. *Plant species have varying water requirements. Before watering according to the chart, use your finger to check actual soil moisture and get familiar with the moisture requirements of your plants.*\n\n|   |   |\n|---|---|\n| Plant Size | Amount of Water per Application |\n| Small shrub | 4-5 gal. |\n| Large shrub | 7-10 gal. |\n| Small trees (\\<2\" caliper) | 7-10 gal. |\n| Large trees (\\>2\" caliper) | 1020 gallons |\n\nWater measurements can be made using an old 1-gallon plastic milk container. When using a hose, turn on the water at a slow trickle and take note of the setting. Count the amount of time it takes to fill the 1-gallon container. Multiply that amount of time by the number of gallons you need for your plant. That total provides the amount of time you need to run the hose, based on the chart.\n\nShare this\n\nLink copied\\!\n\n[Post](https:\/\/twitter.com\/intent\/tweet?text=How%20to%20Plant%20a%20Tree%20or%20Shrub&url=https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles\/tree-planting-8741)\n\n[Share](https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer.php?u=https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles\/tree-planting-8741)\n\n[Pin it](https:\/\/pinterest.com\/pin\/create\/button\/?url=https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles\/tree-planting-8741&media=\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cdn\/shop\/articles\/8741-tree-planting.jpg?crop=center&height=1024&v=1754672377&width=1024&description=How%20to%20Plant%20a%20Tree%20or%20Shrub)\n\n[Previous post](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles\/age-corten-steel-9582)\n\n[Next post](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles\/grow-microgreens-7987)\n\n[Back to Planting Techniques & Tools](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/techniques-tools-articles)\n\n### Related Articles\n[![Gardener Spotlight: An Interview with Grow For Me Gardening.](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/28J.jpg?v=1758881905)](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/perennial-gardening-articles\/grow-for-me-gardening-9760)\n\n[Gardener Spotlight: An Interview with Grow For Me Gardening.](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/perennial-gardening-articles\/grow-for-me-gardening-9760)\n\n[![How to Extend the Garden Season](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/1Vs.jpg?v=1758881777)](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/garden-structures-articles\/extend-the-season-9671)\n\n[How to Extend the Garden Season](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/garden-structures-articles\/extend-the-season-9671)\n\n[![Protecting the Winooski River with Green Stormwater Practices](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/2a4_381e8e8f-36de-4e8d-b2fc-107c8c876b97.jpg?v=1758881619)](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/gardening-planet-articles\/green-stormwater-practice-9764)\n\n[Protecting the Winooski River with Green Stormwater Practices](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/gardening-planet-articles\/green-stormwater-practice-9764)\n\n## Related items\n##\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n### Your product's name\n#### Product subtitle\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\nRegular price ~~\\$29.99~~ \\$19.99\n\nUnit price\n\n\/ per\n\n[Squash Vine Borer Prevention and Control Techniques for prevention and control, including a video on how to remove squash-vine borers.](https:\/\/gardenersc.myshopify.com\/blogs\/pest-disease-encyclopedia\/squash-vine-borer-5304)\n\n[Gardening with Chickens: Making Compost (It’s Free Fertilizer!) 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Find effective ways to identify and control this borer](https:\/\/gardenersc.myshopify.com\/blogs\/pest-disease-encyclopedia\/european-corn-borer-5306)\n\n[How to Build an Herb Spiral What's an \"herb spiral\"? In your mind, imagine a long garden row, about 25 feet long. Then, take that garden row and coil it around and upward...](https:\/\/gardenersc.myshopify.com\/blogs\/herb-growing-articles\/build-an-herb-spiral-8528)\n\n### Sign up for Email\nGet in on the best deals, new products and gardening tips.\n\n[REQUEST OUR CATALOG](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/catalog-request \"\/pages\/catalog-request\")\n\n### Customer Service\nCustomer Service\n\n- [Customer Service](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/help)\n- [Contact Preferences](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/contact-preferences)\n- [Our Guarantee](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/our-guarantee)\n- [Sales And Use Tax](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/sales-and-use-tax)\n- [Shipping](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/delivery-methods-and-charges)\n- [Gift\/Replacement Certificate Inquiry](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/certificate-balance)\n\n### About Us\nAbout Us\n\n- [About Us](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/about-us)\n- [A Company of Gardeners](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/about-us-company-of-gardeners)\n- [Digital Catalog](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/digital-catalogs)\n- [How We Do Business](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/about-us-how-we-do-business)\n- [Careers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/careers)\n- [FAQs](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/about-us-faq)\n\n### Our Garden Centers\nOur Garden Centers\n\n- [Gardening Tips](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/advice)\n- [Our Garden Centers](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/our-garden-centers)\n- [Email Preferences](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/email-preferences-page)\n- [Privacy Policy](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/privacy-policy)\n- [California\/Nevada Privacy Rights](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/ccpa-privacy-policy)\n\nCopyright © 2026, [Gardeners Supply](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/) — [Powered by Shopify](https:\/\/www.shopify.com\/?utm_campaign=poweredby&utm_medium=shopify&utm_source=onlinestore)\n\n![](https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0770\/9032\/4705\/files\/gardeners_logo_white.webp) © 2026 Gardener's Supply Company, PO Box 4006, Lawrenceburg, IN 47025-4006 \\| [Terms of Use](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/help-terms-of-use \"\/pages\/help-terms-of-use\") \\| [Accessibility Statement](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/blogs\/gardening-tips\/accessibility-statement-9463 \"\/blogs\/gardening-tips\/accessibility-statement-9463\")  \nAMERICA'S GARDENING RESOURCE ® \\| [Your Privacy Choices](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/privacy-policy \"\/pages\/privacy-policy\")\n\n#### Availability\n\n{\"statementLink\":\"\",\"footerHtml\":\" \",\"hideMobile\":false,\"hideTrigger\":false,\"disableBgProcess\":false,\"language\":\"en\",\"position\":\"left\",\"leadColor\":\"\\#146ff8\",\"triggerColor\":\"\\#146ff8\",\"triggerRadius\":\"50%\",\"triggerPositionX\":\"right\",\"triggerPositionY\":\"bottom\",\"triggerIcon\":\"people\",\"triggerSize\":\"medium\",\"triggerOffsetX\":20,\"triggerOffsetY\":20,\"mobile\":{\"triggerSize\":\"small\",\"triggerPositionX\":\"right\",\"triggerPositionY\":\"bottom\",\"triggerOffsetX\":10,\"triggerOffsetY\":10,\"triggerRadius\":\"50%\"}}\n\nfalse","attrs_readable_markdown":"Written By [Gardener's Supply Co.](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/pages\/gardeners-supply-co)   Mar 27, 20255 min read\n\n![How to Plant a Tree or Shrub](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/cdn\/shop\/articles\/8741-tree-planting.jpg?v=1754672377&width=320)\n\n![](https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0770\/9032\/4705\/files\/8741-tree-diagram.webp?v=1754061882)\n\nTrees shade and cool our streets, provide habitat for our wildlife, add beauty to our neighborhoods and yards, and [remove tons of carbon dioxide](https:\/\/www.fs.usda.gov\/learn\/trees) from the atmosphere. The simple act of planting a tree in your yard, neighborhood, school, or watershed will do wonders for the health of our planet and [ourselves](https:\/\/arbordayblog.org\/trees-and-wellness\/nature-and-savings-in-healthcare-costs\/).  \nProper planting is critical to their survival and long-term success.\n\n## Digging the Hole\nPlanting too deep is the top reason that trees and shrubs die. Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth for both balled-and-burlapped (B\\&B) and potted trees.\n\n1. Locate the point at which the trunk flares out to join the roots. On B\\&B trees, remove the twine and burlap at the base of the trunk. If necessary, gently push the soil away from the base of the trunk to find the flare.\n2. Measure the distance from the bottom of the root mass to the trunk flare. Dig the hole no deeper than this; you want the root mass to sit on undisturbed soil. When planting is complete, the trunk flare should be slightly above the existing soil grade.\n3. Dig the hole two to three times the diameter of the root ball or container, sloping the sides gently outward to the existing soil grade.\n## Planting\nWhen moving your plant into the planting hole, disturb the rootball as little as possible. Lift B\\&B trees and shrubs by using the rope, burlap or wire cage on the rootball. Lift potted plants by grasping the container. Don't lift plants by the trunk, stems or branches. Don't allow the root system to dry out before or during planting.\n\nThe thinking on backfill has changed in recent years. Although it was once common to modify the backfill soil with amendments — such as compost, peat moss, aged manure and other ingredients — it is now considered best practice to leave the backfill unaltered or add minimal amendments. This encourages roots to spread out into the native soil, rather than staying within the confines of the planting hole.\n\nWe do recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi to the backfill. Mycorrhizal fungi form associations with plant roots and help them extract and absorb minerals and water from the soil. Trees and shrubs with mycorrhizal-enhanced root systems adapt better and are more tolerant of stressful environments. Bone meal provides essential minerals that promote sturdy root systems and stimulate plant growth.\n\n### B\\&B trees and shrubs\n1. Place the tree in the center of the hole. If necessary, straighten or stabilize the tree by adjusting or filling beneath the root ball with the backfill mix.\n2. Cut away any twine or burlap from the base of the trunk and remove any burlap that is on the top of the rootball. Remove excess soil from the top of the rootball to expose the trunk flare, if needed.\n3. Use bolt cutters to remove as much of the wire basket as possible. Don't try to remove the entire wire basket. The plant will thrive even if there is some of the basket left in the hole. Remove all the rope and twine from the rootball, as well as any nails holding the burlap together. Pull back the burlap and cut away any loose material. It's OK to leave some burlap in the hole to decompose. However, remove all plastic or treated burlap.\n### Potted trees and shrubs\n1. Tip the container on its side and slide the plant from the container. Place the plant in the hole by lifting the root mass, not the plant itself. If the plant has become pot-bound, it may be necessary to cut the container before the plant can be removed.\n2. To encourage root growth, tease the outer roots from the soil. If the roots are tightly matted, use a knife to score the root mass in several places and gently loosen the root ball. This won't harm the plant and will encourage new root growth.\n## Backfilling\n1. Add backfill soil to your planting hole until it comes about halfway up the root ball. Use your foot or hands to firm the soil and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the trunk is vertical and confirm that the trunk flare will sit slight above soil grade once backfilling is complete. Continue adding backfill and packing it down until you've reached the top of the root ball, taking care not to cover the trunk flare.\n2. Construct a 3\" - 4\" high ridge of soil around the outer edge of the planting hole. This berm will create a basin to hold irrigation water and concentrate it over the roots. Use a hose to fill the basin, then allow the water to soak it, repeating several times. Or, let the water run at a trickle for 15 to 30 minutes to ensure that the entire root zone is moist. The goal is to ensure even watering so the soil is drenched and any large air pockets are eliminated.\n3. Recheck that the trunk flare is completely exposed and the top of the root ball has not been covered with additional soil. Remove any plant tags or labels from the tree.\n## Mulching\nApply bark mulch or pine straw to a depth of 2\" - 3\" over the entire planting hole. Mulching helps conserve water and prevent weeds. Taper the mulch toward the base of the tree, but do not allow it to touch the tree trunk.\n\n## Staking\nStaking at planting time is not always necessary. Consider the stability of the rootball, trunk size and strength, direction of prevailing winds, canopy size and density when determining whether or not to stake. If in doubt, ask a nursery professional.\n\n## Fertilizing\nWe do not recommend fertilizing newly planted trees and shrubs during their first year of growth.\n\n## Watering\nProper moisture is critical to the survival of your young tree or shrub. The roots should never dry out completely, nor should they be waterlogged. **The best way to check soil moisture? Use your finger.** Dig down 2\" to 4\" just outside the root mass of the plant and water if the soil feels dry. Newly planted shrubs and trees should be checked and watered every other day for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks, limit watering to once a week if less than 1\" of rain falls during the week. Thorough soakings that moisten the soil to the entire depth of the root mass are better than frequent light waterings.\n\n![](https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0770\/9032\/4705\/files\/8741-soaker-hose-at-base-of-tree.webp?v=1754061882)\n\nA newly-planted, tree-form hydrangea with [Snip-n-Drip](https:\/\/www.gardeners.com\/buy\/landscape-snip-n-drip-soaker-system\/8587044.html) soaker hose for watering.\n\nUse the chart below as a guideline for the amount of water needed by newly planted trees and shrubs based upon plant size. *Plant species have varying water requirements. Before watering according to the chart, use your finger to check actual soil moisture and get familiar with the moisture requirements of your plants.*\n\n|   |   |\n|---|---|\n| Plant Size | Amount of Water per Application |\n| Small shrub | 4-5 gal. |\n| Large shrub | 7-10 gal. |\n| Small trees (\\<2\" caliper) | 7-10 gal. |\n| Large trees (\\>2\" caliper) | 1020 gallons |\n\nWater measurements can be made using an old 1-gallon plastic milk container. When using a hose, turn on the water at a slow trickle and take note of the setting. Count the amount of time it takes to fill the 1-gallon container. Multiply that amount of time by the number of gallons you need for your plant. That total provides the amount of time you need to run the hose, based on the chart.","meta_canonical":null}

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Boilerpipe Text	Written By Gardener's Supply Co. Mar 27, 2025 5 min read Trees shade and cool our streets, provide habitat for our wildlife, add beauty to our neighborhoods and yards, and remove tons of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. The simple act of planting a tree in your yard, neighborhood, school, or watershed will do wonders for the health of our planet and ourselves . Proper planting is critical to their survival and long-term success. Digging the Hole Planting too deep is the top reason that trees and shrubs die. Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth for both balled-and-burlapped (B&B) and potted trees. Locate the point at which the trunk flares out to join the roots. On B&B trees, remove the twine and burlap at the base of the trunk. If necessary, gently push the soil away from the base of the trunk to find the flare. Measure the distance from the bottom of the root mass to the trunk flare. Dig the hole no deeper than this; you want the root mass to sit on undisturbed soil. When planting is complete, the trunk flare should be slightly above the existing soil grade. Dig the hole two to three times the diameter of the root ball or container, sloping the sides gently outward to the existing soil grade. Planting When moving your plant into the planting hole, disturb the rootball as little as possible. Lift B&B trees and shrubs by using the rope, burlap or wire cage on the rootball. Lift potted plants by grasping the container. Don't lift plants by the trunk, stems or branches. Don't allow the root system to dry out before or during planting. The thinking on backfill has changed in recent years. Although it was once common to modify the backfill soil with amendments — such as compost, peat moss, aged manure and other ingredients — it is now considered best practice to leave the backfill unaltered or add minimal amendments. This encourages roots to spread out into the native soil, rather than staying within the confines of the planting hole. We do recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi to the backfill. Mycorrhizal fungi form associations with plant roots and help them extract and absorb minerals and water from the soil. Trees and shrubs with mycorrhizal-enhanced root systems adapt better and are more tolerant of stressful environments. Bone meal provides essential minerals that promote sturdy root systems and stimulate plant growth. B&B trees and shrubs Place the tree in the center of the hole. If necessary, straighten or stabilize the tree by adjusting or filling beneath the root ball with the backfill mix. Cut away any twine or burlap from the base of the trunk and remove any burlap that is on the top of the rootball. Remove excess soil from the top of the rootball to expose the trunk flare, if needed. Use bolt cutters to remove as much of the wire basket as possible. Don't try to remove the entire wire basket. The plant will thrive even if there is some of the basket left in the hole. Remove all the rope and twine from the rootball, as well as any nails holding the burlap together. Pull back the burlap and cut away any loose material. It's OK to leave some burlap in the hole to decompose. However, remove all plastic or treated burlap. Potted trees and shrubs Tip the container on its side and slide the plant from the container. Place the plant in the hole by lifting the root mass, not the plant itself. If the plant has become pot-bound, it may be necessary to cut the container before the plant can be removed. To encourage root growth, tease the outer roots from the soil. If the roots are tightly matted, use a knife to score the root mass in several places and gently loosen the root ball. This won't harm the plant and will encourage new root growth. Backfilling Add backfill soil to your planting hole until it comes about halfway up the root ball. Use your foot or hands to firm the soil and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the trunk is vertical and confirm that the trunk flare will sit slight above soil grade once backfilling is complete. Continue adding backfill and packing it down until you've reached the top of the root ball, taking care not to cover the trunk flare. Construct a 3" - 4" high ridge of soil around the outer edge of the planting hole. This berm will create a basin to hold irrigation water and concentrate it over the roots. Use a hose to fill the basin, then allow the water to soak it, repeating several times. Or, let the water run at a trickle for 15 to 30 minutes to ensure that the entire root zone is moist. The goal is to ensure even watering so the soil is drenched and any large air pockets are eliminated. Recheck that the trunk flare is completely exposed and the top of the root ball has not been covered with additional soil. Remove any plant tags or labels from the tree. Mulching Apply bark mulch or pine straw to a depth of 2" - 3" over the entire planting hole. Mulching helps conserve water and prevent weeds. Taper the mulch toward the base of the tree, but do not allow it to touch the tree trunk. Staking Staking at planting time is not always necessary. Consider the stability of the rootball, trunk size and strength, direction of prevailing winds, canopy size and density when determining whether or not to stake. If in doubt, ask a nursery professional. Fertilizing We do not recommend fertilizing newly planted trees and shrubs during their first year of growth. Watering Proper moisture is critical to the survival of your young tree or shrub. The roots should never dry out completely, nor should they be waterlogged. The best way to check soil moisture? Use your finger. Dig down 2" to 4" just outside the root mass of the plant and water if the soil feels dry. Newly planted shrubs and trees should be checked and watered every other day for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks, limit watering to once a week if less than 1" of rain falls during the week. Thorough soakings that moisten the soil to the entire depth of the root mass are better than frequent light waterings. A newly-planted, tree-form hydrangea with Snip-n-Drip soaker hose for watering. Use the chart below as a guideline for the amount of water needed by newly planted trees and shrubs based upon plant size. Plant species have varying water requirements. Before watering according to the chart, use your finger to check actual soil moisture and get familiar with the moisture requirements of your plants. Plant Size Amount of Water per Application Small shrub 4-5 gal. Large shrub 7-10 gal. Small trees (<2" caliper) 7-10 gal. Large trees (>2" caliper) 1020 gallons Water measurements can be made using an old 1-gallon plastic milk container. When using a hose, turn on the water at a slow trickle and take note of the setting. Count the amount of time it takes to fill the 1-gallon container. Multiply that amount of time by the number of gallons you need for your plant. That total provides the amount of time you need to run the hose, based on the chart.
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The simple act of planting a tree in your yard, neighborhood, school, or watershed will do wonders for the health of our planet and [ourselves](https://arbordayblog.org/trees-and-wellness/nature-and-savings-in-healthcare-costs/). Proper planting is critical to their survival and long-term success. ## Digging the Hole Planting too deep is the top reason that trees and shrubs die. Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth for both balled-and-burlapped (B\&B) and potted trees. 1. Locate the point at which the trunk flares out to join the roots. On B\&B trees, remove the twine and burlap at the base of the trunk. If necessary, gently push the soil away from the base of the trunk to find the flare. 2. Measure the distance from the bottom of the root mass to the trunk flare. Dig the hole no deeper than this; you want the root mass to sit on undisturbed soil. When planting is complete, the trunk flare should be slightly above the existing soil grade. 3. Dig the hole two to three times the diameter of the root ball or container, sloping the sides gently outward to the existing soil grade. ## Planting When moving your plant into the planting hole, disturb the rootball as little as possible. Lift B\&B trees and shrubs by using the rope, burlap or wire cage on the rootball. Lift potted plants by grasping the container. Don't lift plants by the trunk, stems or branches. Don't allow the root system to dry out before or during planting. The thinking on backfill has changed in recent years. Although it was once common to modify the backfill soil with amendments — such as compost, peat moss, aged manure and other ingredients — it is now considered best practice to leave the backfill unaltered or add minimal amendments. This encourages roots to spread out into the native soil, rather than staying within the confines of the planting hole. We do recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi to the backfill. Mycorrhizal fungi form associations with plant roots and help them extract and absorb minerals and water from the soil. Trees and shrubs with mycorrhizal-enhanced root systems adapt better and are more tolerant of stressful environments. Bone meal provides essential minerals that promote sturdy root systems and stimulate plant growth. ### B\&B trees and shrubs 1. Place the tree in the center of the hole. If necessary, straighten or stabilize the tree by adjusting or filling beneath the root ball with the backfill mix. 2. Cut away any twine or burlap from the base of the trunk and remove any burlap that is on the top of the rootball. Remove excess soil from the top of the rootball to expose the trunk flare, if needed. 3. Use bolt cutters to remove as much of the wire basket as possible. Don't try to remove the entire wire basket. The plant will thrive even if there is some of the basket left in the hole. Remove all the rope and twine from the rootball, as well as any nails holding the burlap together. Pull back the burlap and cut away any loose material. It's OK to leave some burlap in the hole to decompose. However, remove all plastic or treated burlap. ### Potted trees and shrubs 1. Tip the container on its side and slide the plant from the container. Place the plant in the hole by lifting the root mass, not the plant itself. If the plant has become pot-bound, it may be necessary to cut the container before the plant can be removed. 2. To encourage root growth, tease the outer roots from the soil. If the roots are tightly matted, use a knife to score the root mass in several places and gently loosen the root ball. This won't harm the plant and will encourage new root growth. ## Backfilling 1. Add backfill soil to your planting hole until it comes about halfway up the root ball. Use your foot or hands to firm the soil and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the trunk is vertical and confirm that the trunk flare will sit slight above soil grade once backfilling is complete. Continue adding backfill and packing it down until you've reached the top of the root ball, taking care not to cover the trunk flare. 2. Construct a 3" - 4" high ridge of soil around the outer edge of the planting hole. This berm will create a basin to hold irrigation water and concentrate it over the roots. Use a hose to fill the basin, then allow the water to soak it, repeating several times. Or, let the water run at a trickle for 15 to 30 minutes to ensure that the entire root zone is moist. The goal is to ensure even watering so the soil is drenched and any large air pockets are eliminated. 3. Recheck that the trunk flare is completely exposed and the top of the root ball has not been covered with additional soil. Remove any plant tags or labels from the tree. ## Mulching Apply bark mulch or pine straw to a depth of 2" - 3" over the entire planting hole. Mulching helps conserve water and prevent weeds. Taper the mulch toward the base of the tree, but do not allow it to touch the tree trunk. ## Staking Staking at planting time is not always necessary. Consider the stability of the rootball, trunk size and strength, direction of prevailing winds, canopy size and density when determining whether or not to stake. If in doubt, ask a nursery professional. ## Fertilizing We do not recommend fertilizing newly planted trees and shrubs during their first year of growth. ## Watering Proper moisture is critical to the survival of your young tree or shrub. The roots should never dry out completely, nor should they be waterlogged. The best way to check soil moisture? Use your finger. Dig down 2" to 4" just outside the root mass of the plant and water if the soil feels dry. Newly planted shrubs and trees should be checked and watered every other day for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks, limit watering to once a week if less than 1" of rain falls during the week. Thorough soakings that moisten the soil to the entire depth of the root mass are better than frequent light waterings. ![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0770/9032/4705/files/8741-soaker-hose-at-base-of-tree.webp?v=1754061882) A newly-planted, tree-form hydrangea with [Snip-n-Drip](https://www.gardeners.com/buy/landscape-snip-n-drip-soaker-system/8587044.html) soaker hose for watering. Use the chart below as a guideline for the amount of water needed by newly planted trees and shrubs based upon plant size. Plant species have varying water requirements. Before watering according to the chart, use your finger to check actual soil moisture and get familiar with the moisture requirements of your plants. \| \| \| \|---\|---\| \| Plant Size \| Amount of Water per Application \| \| Small shrub \| 4-5 gal. \| \| Large shrub \| 7-10 gal. \| \| Small trees (\<2" caliper) \| 7-10 gal. \| \| Large trees (\>2" caliper) \| 1020 gallons \| Water measurements can be made using an old 1-gallon plastic milk container. When using a hose, turn on the water at a slow trickle and take note of the setting. Count the amount of time it takes to fill the 1-gallon container. Multiply that amount of time by the number of gallons you need for your plant. That total provides the amount of time you need to run the hose, based on the chart. Share this Link copied\! [Post](https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?text=How%20to%20Plant%20a%20Tree%20or%20Shrub&url=https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/techniques-tools-articles/tree-planting-8741) [Share](https://www.facebook.com/sharer.php?u=https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/techniques-tools-articles/tree-planting-8741) [Pin it](https://pinterest.com/pin/create/button/?url=https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/techniques-tools-articles/tree-planting-8741&media=//www.gardeners.com/cdn/shop/articles/8741-tree-planting.jpg?crop=center&height=1024&v=1754672377&width=1024&description=How%20to%20Plant%20a%20Tree%20or%20Shrub) [Previous post](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/techniques-tools-articles/age-corten-steel-9582) [Next post](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/techniques-tools-articles/grow-microgreens-7987) [Back to Planting Techniques & Tools](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/techniques-tools-articles) ### Related Articles [![Gardener Spotlight: An Interview with Grow For Me Gardening.](https://www.gardeners.com/cdn/shop/files/28J.jpg?v=1758881905)](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/perennial-gardening-articles/grow-for-me-gardening-9760) [Gardener Spotlight: An Interview with Grow For Me Gardening.](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/perennial-gardening-articles/grow-for-me-gardening-9760) [![How to Extend the Garden Season](https://www.gardeners.com/cdn/shop/files/1Vs.jpg?v=1758881777)](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/garden-structures-articles/extend-the-season-9671) [How to Extend the Garden Season](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/garden-structures-articles/extend-the-season-9671) [![Protecting the Winooski River with Green Stormwater Practices](https://www.gardeners.com/cdn/shop/files/2a4_381e8e8f-36de-4e8d-b2fc-107c8c876b97.jpg?v=1758881619)](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/gardening-planet-articles/green-stormwater-practice-9764) [Protecting the Winooski River with Green Stormwater Practices](https://www.gardeners.com/blogs/gardening-planet-articles/green-stormwater-practice-9764) ## Related items ## ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per ### Your product's name #### Product subtitle Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per Regular price ~~\$29.99~~ \$19.99 Unit price / per [Squash Vine Borer Prevention and Control Techniques for prevention and control, including a video on how to remove squash-vine borers.](https://gardenersc.myshopify.com/blogs/pest-disease-encyclopedia/squash-vine-borer-5304) [Gardening with Chickens: Making Compost (It’s Free Fertilizer!) 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Readable Markdown	Written By [Gardener's Supply Co.](https://www.gardeners.com/pages/gardeners-supply-co) Mar 27, 20255 min read ![How to Plant a Tree or Shrub](https://www.gardeners.com/cdn/shop/articles/8741-tree-planting.jpg?v=1754672377&width=320) ![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0770/9032/4705/files/8741-tree-diagram.webp?v=1754061882) Trees shade and cool our streets, provide habitat for our wildlife, add beauty to our neighborhoods and yards, and [remove tons of carbon dioxide](https://www.fs.usda.gov/learn/trees) from the atmosphere. The simple act of planting a tree in your yard, neighborhood, school, or watershed will do wonders for the health of our planet and [ourselves](https://arbordayblog.org/trees-and-wellness/nature-and-savings-in-healthcare-costs/). Proper planting is critical to their survival and long-term success. ## Digging the Hole Planting too deep is the top reason that trees and shrubs die. Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth for both balled-and-burlapped (B\&B) and potted trees. 1. Locate the point at which the trunk flares out to join the roots. On B\&B trees, remove the twine and burlap at the base of the trunk. If necessary, gently push the soil away from the base of the trunk to find the flare. 2. Measure the distance from the bottom of the root mass to the trunk flare. Dig the hole no deeper than this; you want the root mass to sit on undisturbed soil. When planting is complete, the trunk flare should be slightly above the existing soil grade. 3. Dig the hole two to three times the diameter of the root ball or container, sloping the sides gently outward to the existing soil grade. ## Planting When moving your plant into the planting hole, disturb the rootball as little as possible. Lift B\&B trees and shrubs by using the rope, burlap or wire cage on the rootball. Lift potted plants by grasping the container. Don't lift plants by the trunk, stems or branches. Don't allow the root system to dry out before or during planting. The thinking on backfill has changed in recent years. Although it was once common to modify the backfill soil with amendments — such as compost, peat moss, aged manure and other ingredients — it is now considered best practice to leave the backfill unaltered or add minimal amendments. This encourages roots to spread out into the native soil, rather than staying within the confines of the planting hole. We do recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi to the backfill. Mycorrhizal fungi form associations with plant roots and help them extract and absorb minerals and water from the soil. Trees and shrubs with mycorrhizal-enhanced root systems adapt better and are more tolerant of stressful environments. Bone meal provides essential minerals that promote sturdy root systems and stimulate plant growth. ### B\&B trees and shrubs 1. Place the tree in the center of the hole. If necessary, straighten or stabilize the tree by adjusting or filling beneath the root ball with the backfill mix. 2. Cut away any twine or burlap from the base of the trunk and remove any burlap that is on the top of the rootball. Remove excess soil from the top of the rootball to expose the trunk flare, if needed. 3. Use bolt cutters to remove as much of the wire basket as possible. Don't try to remove the entire wire basket. The plant will thrive even if there is some of the basket left in the hole. Remove all the rope and twine from the rootball, as well as any nails holding the burlap together. Pull back the burlap and cut away any loose material. It's OK to leave some burlap in the hole to decompose. However, remove all plastic or treated burlap. ### Potted trees and shrubs 1. Tip the container on its side and slide the plant from the container. Place the plant in the hole by lifting the root mass, not the plant itself. If the plant has become pot-bound, it may be necessary to cut the container before the plant can be removed. 2. To encourage root growth, tease the outer roots from the soil. If the roots are tightly matted, use a knife to score the root mass in several places and gently loosen the root ball. This won't harm the plant and will encourage new root growth. ## Backfilling 1. Add backfill soil to your planting hole until it comes about halfway up the root ball. Use your foot or hands to firm the soil and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the trunk is vertical and confirm that the trunk flare will sit slight above soil grade once backfilling is complete. Continue adding backfill and packing it down until you've reached the top of the root ball, taking care not to cover the trunk flare. 2. Construct a 3" - 4" high ridge of soil around the outer edge of the planting hole. This berm will create a basin to hold irrigation water and concentrate it over the roots. Use a hose to fill the basin, then allow the water to soak it, repeating several times. Or, let the water run at a trickle for 15 to 30 minutes to ensure that the entire root zone is moist. The goal is to ensure even watering so the soil is drenched and any large air pockets are eliminated. 3. Recheck that the trunk flare is completely exposed and the top of the root ball has not been covered with additional soil. Remove any plant tags or labels from the tree. ## Mulching Apply bark mulch or pine straw to a depth of 2" - 3" over the entire planting hole. Mulching helps conserve water and prevent weeds. Taper the mulch toward the base of the tree, but do not allow it to touch the tree trunk. ## Staking Staking at planting time is not always necessary. Consider the stability of the rootball, trunk size and strength, direction of prevailing winds, canopy size and density when determining whether or not to stake. If in doubt, ask a nursery professional. ## Fertilizing We do not recommend fertilizing newly planted trees and shrubs during their first year of growth. ## Watering Proper moisture is critical to the survival of your young tree or shrub. The roots should never dry out completely, nor should they be waterlogged. The best way to check soil moisture? Use your finger. Dig down 2" to 4" just outside the root mass of the plant and water if the soil feels dry. Newly planted shrubs and trees should be checked and watered every other day for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks, limit watering to once a week if less than 1" of rain falls during the week. Thorough soakings that moisten the soil to the entire depth of the root mass are better than frequent light waterings. ![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0770/9032/4705/files/8741-soaker-hose-at-base-of-tree.webp?v=1754061882) A newly-planted, tree-form hydrangea with [Snip-n-Drip](https://www.gardeners.com/buy/landscape-snip-n-drip-soaker-system/8587044.html) soaker hose for watering. Use the chart below as a guideline for the amount of water needed by newly planted trees and shrubs based upon plant size. Plant species have varying water requirements. Before watering according to the chart, use your finger to check actual soil moisture and get familiar with the moisture requirements of your plants. \| \| \| \|---\|---\| \| Plant Size \| Amount of Water per Application \| \| Small shrub \| 4-5 gal. \| \| Large shrub \| 7-10 gal. \| \| Small trees (\<2" caliper) \| 7-10 gal. \| \| Large trees (\>2" caliper) \| 1020 gallons \| Water measurements can be made using an old 1-gallon plastic milk container. When using a hose, turn on the water at a slow trickle and take note of the setting. Count the amount of time it takes to fill the 1-gallon container. Multiply that amount of time by the number of gallons you need for your plant. That total provides the amount of time you need to run the hose, based on the chart.
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