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HTTP statusPASSdownload_http_code = 200HTTP 200
Age cutoffPASSdownload_stamp > now() - 6 MONTH0.3 months ago
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CanonicalFAILmeta_canonical IS NULL OR = '' OR = src_unparsedcom,cnn!www,/travel/article/hong-kong-changed-handover s443

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URLhttps://www.cnn.com/travel/article/hong-kong-changed-handover/index.html
Last Crawled2026-04-02 08:58:35 (7 days ago)
First Indexed2019-04-26 06:25:46 (6 years ago)
HTTP Status Code200
Meta TitleHow Hong Kong has changed since the 1997 handover | CNN
Meta DescriptionIn 1997, Britain handed Hong Kong back to China in a one-country, two-systems agreement. Learn how Hong Kong has changed since then, including for travelers, and where the city might be headed.
Meta Canonicalcom,cnn!www,/travel/article/hong-kong-changed-handover s443
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Hong Kong CNN  —  Hong Kong is a city that never stops moving – but midway through a 50-year political experiment as it transitions to Chinese rule, not everyone here knows which way they want it to move. For the traveler, the appeal of Hong Kong is – as it’s always been – that unique sense of history, energy and landscape. Whether in the green hills of the New Territories or the dense tower blocks of the Mid Levels, there’s nowhere like it on Earth. Ad Feedback Little wonder that so many – from the Chinese to the British, to the Japanese, and then British again – have fought over this destination . Ad Feedback It’s currently governed under an unusual structure, known as one country, two systems. That means that although it’s part of China, it has separate laws. In Hong Kong, they’re used to working across divides – whether geographical, lingual or ideological. Hong Kong island and Kowloon Peninsula sit across Victoria Harbour, connected for more than a century by the green and white Star Ferries that ply the water. And there are two official languages – Chinese and English. But travel to Hong Kong today and you’ll find a city at a crossroads. The vibrancy and purposefulness that created this place is now cut through with uncertainty. For some, that unique political experiment is beginning to take its toll. Back in 1997, when Britain handed Hong Kong back to China after more than 150 years, China agreed to maintain its British-implemented government system for 50 years. The Hong Kong Basic Law guarantees the freedoms of the people, such as the right to protest, the right to a free press, freedom of speech and so on. In fact, restrictions from China have led to pro-democracy protests, such as the 2014 “Umbrella Movement,” which challenged Beijing’s interference in Hong Kong’s political affairs and demanded Hong Kong be allowed to choose its own leaders. Video Ad Feedback The dish that the legendary martial artist and actor Bruce Lee inspired 02:33 • Source: CNN The dish that the legendary martial artist and actor Bruce Lee inspired 02:33 Now, with only 28 years remaining on the original plan, no one really knows what comes next. Will things stay as they are, move forward or could they take a step back once the 50 years are up? One thing’s for certain: Hong Kong has gone through many significant changes since the handover. With a population of more than 6.5 million people and growing wealth and resources, it was already considered a city on the rise back then. Now, it’s an economic powerhouse – Hong Kong’s gross domestic product has doubled since 1997. A visit to the working-class neighborhood of Sham Shui Po, located in the heart of Kowloon, provides an insight into just how far things have evolved, offering a glimpse into the past amid rapid change elsewhere in the city. Formerly the center of Hong Kong’s textiles manufacturing industry, it’s filled with bustling markets, some of the best street food around as well as historic buildings like Precious Blood Convent, formerly an outpatient clinic for babies. 17 of Hong Kong's most beautiful places 1 of 17 “This is the last frontier from gentrification, over-thinking things and becoming ahead of ourselves,” says local chef and TV personality Christian Yang. “Guys like me need to come here and almost get reminded of where we come from. “They’ve kept the traditions and they’ve kept making things the way they used to make them.” Alvin Leung, known as “The Demon Chef,” heads up three Michelin star restaurant Bo Innovation. He echoes this resolve to keep the past alive. Opened in the bustling downtown district of Wan Chai in 2008, it serves dishes inspired by events or people in history, such as martial arts legend Bruce Lee and even Doctor Seuss. As for the decor, Leung worked with an artist to create a spectacular mural that depicts pivotal movements in Hong Kong’s history, such as the announcement of the handover. “It embodies the spirit of Hong Kong,” he explains. “What represented Hong Kong at that time was lots of immigrants. We came from a very humble beginning, but we have adapted.” Video Ad Feedback If it's Wednesday in Hong Kong, it's a safe bet that it's a night at the races 02:33 • Source: CNN If it's Wednesday in Hong Kong, it's a safe bet that it's a night at the races 02:33 The city’s ever-changing skyline is one of the clearest indications of how rapidly it’s adapted, particularly with the growth of Hong Kong Island’s eastern districts. Hong Kong now has more skyscrapers than anywhere else in the world. However, only 24% of the land here is developed, of which only 7% is used for housing. Much of the premium land ends up in the hands of the wealthy, meaning many Hong Kong residents live in shockingly cramped spaces. As a result, property here is at premium, with the market considered the most expensive in the world. On The Peak, one of its most exclusive neighborhoods, a four-bedroom house, measuring around 6,200 square feet, was last year listed for around US$446 million . Positioned about 400 meters above sea level on Hong Kong island, The Peak also serves as a major tourist attraction. Around seven million people take The Peak Tram, one of the world’s steepest funicular railways, up here each year to witness the spectacular views of the city below. “Only the very rich and famous British people were permitted to live here before,” explains Binoche Chan, chief operating officer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong. “The Chinese started to have an address on the Peak, but it was a big fight.” While many of its properties were acquired by Hong Kong’s Chinese residents after the handover, the main buyers are now people from mainland China. “Hong Kong is always their first choice before they go to New York or London to buy their second, third or fourth property,” she says. Unable to load video Please try again later. Error occurred while fetching labs Video Ad Feedback Inside custom tailoring. Does the clothes make the man or the man the clothes? 03:16 • Source: CNN Inside custom tailoring. Does the clothes make the man or the man the clothes? 03:16 Mainland China invested $8.57 billion in Hong Kong real estate in 2017, and financial ties between the two destinations have prevailed. As a free market economy, Hong Kong is largely dependent on international trade and finance, and mainland China accounts for around half of its total imports and exports. Meanwhile, tourism contributed to the city’s GDP by 4.7% in 2016, when it received 56.6 million visitors, many of who were from mainland China. But business aside, the political divides that developed during the 150-year separation between the two remain strong. Prior to the handover, government affairs in Hong Kong were overseen by a governor selected by the British Crown. But since 1997, the top Chief Executive has been chosen by an election committee of 1,194 people largely made up of pro-establishment voters who seem eager to carry out the wishes of the central government in Beijing. Frustrations over this system came to a head in 2014, resulting in the Umbrella Movement, in which tens of thousands of protesters shut down sections of the city for a staggering 79 days. Several protest leaders were recently jailed . When a 2017 survey by the University of Hong Kong showed the number of young people living in the city who identified as Chinese was just 3.1%, political tensions were thought to be a contributing factor. Many young residents now see themselves as entirely separate, identifying as Hong Kongers. Meanwhile, in a separate poll conducted by the Public Opinion Programme of Hong Kong University, more than 55% of respondents said they had absolutely no confidence in Hong Kong’s future – the lowest figure since 1994. With such tensions continuing, it’s no surprise that the mere mention of the end of the 50-year plan causes discomfort for Hong Kongers. Now that the “one country, two systems” experiment is almost at its halfway point, only time will tell how things fare on the other side. However Yang, who grew up in the city during the handover years, says there’s no doubt in his mind that Hong Kong will emerge stronger than ever. “We survive, because we are survivors,” he says.
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From sleepy, desert port to shining metropolis 07:43 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![quests world of wonder richard quest dubai desert trading port metropolis spc\_00003909.png](https://media.cnn.com/api/v1/images/stellar/prod/210128105336-quests-world-of-wonder-richard-quest-dubai-desert-trading-port-metropolis-spc-00003909.png?q=x_0,y_0,h_1080,w_1919,c_fill/w_250) Video Ad Feedback Finding substance and heart in a city of superlatives 23:36 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Dubai spirit superlative QWOW Richard Quest spc\_00001816.png](https://media.cnn.com/api/v1/images/stellar/prod/210309160920-dubai-spirit-superlative-qwow-richard-quest-spc-00001816.png?q=x_0,y_0,h_1080,w_1919,c_fill/w_250) Video Ad Feedback Substance in a city of superlatives 07:01 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Seychelles pirate treasure Africa Richard Quest pandemic 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(Photo by Milos Bicanski/Getty Images)](https://media.cnn.com/api/v1/images/stellar/prod/171221132100-gettyimages-51224767.jpg?q=x_0,y_121,h_1688,w_3000,c_crop/w_250) Video Ad Feedback Athens: Where fun means survival 07:57 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Tourists sit under a Greek flag atop Acropolis hill in Athens on August 22, 2010. AFP PHOTO/ LOUISA GOULIAMAKI / AFP PHOTO / LOUISA GOULIAMAKI (Photo credit should read LOUISA GOULIAMAKI/AFP/Getty Images)](https://media.cnn.com/api/v1/images/stellar/prod/180820151141-greece-flag-tourists.jpg?q=x_0,y_213,h_2394,w_4256,c_crop/w_250) Video Ad Feedback Greece's enduring city of drama 08:23 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Tourists visit the Areios Pagos hill in Athens on August 15, 2016. / AFP / Angelos Tzortzinis (Photo credit should read ANGELOS TZORTZINIS/AFP/Getty Images)](https://media.cnn.com/api/v1/images/stellar/prod/160816223640-11-instant-vacation-travel-0816.jpg?q=x_0,y_0,h_2391,w_4248,c_fill/w_250) Video Ad Feedback Athens: 'a phoenix rising from the ashes' 06:44 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Quest's World of Wonder Berlin Germany Europe economy vision a\_00022109.jpg](https://media.cnn.com/api/v1/images/stellar/prod/180817120034-quests-world-of-wonder-berlin-germany-europe-economy-vision-a-00022109.jpg?q=x_0,y_0,h_1080,w_1919,c_fill/w_250) Video Ad Feedback Berlin is laid back, low-rise and rather green\! 07:30 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Quest's World of Wonder Berlin Germany history vision b\_00011104.jpg](https://media.cnn.com/api/v1/images/stellar/prod/180817115828-quests-world-of-wonder-berlin-germany-history-vision-b-00011104.jpg?q=x_0,y_0,h_1080,w_1919,c_fill/w_250) Video Ad Feedback Extraordinary stories from Berlin's past 08:04 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Quest's World of Wonder Berlin Germany Burlesque techno vision c\_00044125.jpg](https://media.cnn.com/api/v1/images/stellar/prod/180817120929-quests-world-of-wonder-berlin-germany-burlesque-techno-vision-c-00044125.jpg?q=x_0,y_0,h_1080,w_1919,c_fill/w_250) Video Ad Feedback Berlin's live and let live attitude 07:43 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Quest's world of wonder washington dc power vision a\_00011223.jpg](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) Video Ad Feedback Washington D.C. -- worthy of a grand empire? 07:51 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![quest's world of wonder washington dc willard hotel white house vision b\_00000705.jpg](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) Video Ad Feedback The historic hotel and the secrets its keeping 07:52 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![quest's world of wonder washington dc abraham lincoln white house lincoln cottage vision c\_00001124.jpg](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) Video Ad Feedback Honest Abe's summer home in Washington D.C. 07:47 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![Quest's World Of Wonder Sham Shui Po Hong Kong noodles vision \_00013815.jpg](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) Video Ad Feedback "Bite and Catch" discovering a nifty trick to eating noodles 02:07 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![qwow budapest ruin bars dancing spa party spc a\_00055814.png](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) Video Ad Feedback Budapest had Richard Quest dancing along the Danube 06:35 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) ![qwow budapest house of terror soviet regime history spc b\_00035608.png](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) Video Ad Feedback Coming to terms with Budapest's dark past 05:29 Now playing • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) See more videos Hong Kong CNN — [Hong Kong](http://www.cnn.com/travel/destinations/hong-kong) is a city that never stops moving – but midway through a 50-year political experiment as it transitions to Chinese rule, not everyone here knows which way they want it to move. For the traveler, the appeal of Hong Kong is – as it’s always been – that unique sense of history, energy and landscape. Whether in the green hills of the New Territories or the dense tower blocks of the Mid Levels, there’s nowhere like it on Earth. Ad Feedback Little wonder that so many – from the Chinese to the British, to the Japanese, and then British again – have fought over this [destination](http://www.cnn.com/travel/destinations). Ad Feedback It’s currently governed under an unusual structure, known as one country, two systems. That means that although it’s part of China, it has separate laws. In Hong Kong, they’re used to working across divides – whether geographical, lingual or ideological. [Related article Is Helsinki the world's coolest city?](https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/helsinki-coolest-city-finland/index.html) Hong Kong island and Kowloon Peninsula sit across Victoria Harbour, connected for more than a century by the green and white [Star Ferries](https://edition.cnn.com/travel/article/star-ferry-hong-kong-history/index.html) that ply the water. And there are [two official languages](https://www.gov.hk/en/about/abouthk/facts.htm) – Chinese and English. But [travel](http://www.cnn.com/travel) to Hong Kong today and you’ll find a city at a crossroads. The vibrancy and purposefulness that created this place is now cut through with uncertainty. For some, that unique political experiment is beginning to take its toll. Back in 1997, when Britain handed Hong Kong back to China after more than 150 years, China agreed to maintain its British-implemented government system for 50 years. The Hong Kong Basic Law guarantees the freedoms of the people, such as the right to protest, the right to a free press, freedom of speech and so on. In fact, restrictions from China have led to pro-democracy protests, such as the 2014 “Umbrella Movement,” which challenged Beijing’s interference in Hong Kong’s political affairs and demanded Hong Kong be allowed to choose its own leaders. ## Fears for future Video Ad Feedback The dish that the legendary martial artist and actor Bruce Lee inspired 02:33 • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) The dish that the legendary martial artist and actor Bruce Lee inspired 02:33 Now, with only 28 years remaining on the original plan, no one really knows what comes next. Will things stay as they are, move forward or could they take a step back once the 50 years are up? One thing’s for certain: Hong Kong has gone through many significant changes since the handover. With a population of more than 6.5 million people and growing wealth and resources, it was already considered a city on the rise back then. Now, it’s an economic powerhouse – Hong Kong’s gross domestic product has doubled since 1997. A visit to the working-class neighborhood of Sham Shui Po, located in the heart of Kowloon, provides an insight into just how far things have evolved, offering a glimpse into the past amid rapid change elsewhere in the city. Formerly the center of Hong Kong’s textiles manufacturing industry, it’s filled with bustling markets, some of the best street food around as well as historic buildings like Precious Blood Convent, formerly an outpatient clinic for babies. ![\<strong\>Cheung Chau Bun Festival: \</strong\>Okay, we're not sure about "beautiful," but it's certainly epic. Participants clamber up these summits of steamed buns as part of an annual bun-snatching competition and Da Jiu festival on the island of Cheung Chau. ](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Cheung Chau Bun Festival:** Okay, we're not sure about "beautiful," but it's certainly epic. Participants clamber up these summits of steamed buns as part of an annual bun-snatching competition and Da Jiu festival on the island of Cheung Chau. Lo Ka Fai/China Photos/Getty Images ![\<strong\>Victoria Harbor: \</strong\>Over-photographed, maybe, but we still can't get enough of it. Hong Kong-based photographer Andy Yeung snapped this beautiful pic of Victoria Harbor during golden hour. Click \<a href="https://www.cnn.com/2016/04/25/travel/aerial-hong-kong-photography/index.html" target="\_blank"\>here\</a\> for his tips on how to capture Hong Kong in beautiful, original shots. Visit his \<a href="http://www.andyyeungphotography.com/" target="\_blank" target="\_blank"\>website\</a\> for more of his work.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Victoria Harbor:** Over-photographed, maybe, but we still can't get enough of it. Hong Kong-based photographer Andy Yeung snapped this beautiful pic of Victoria Harbor during golden hour. Click [here](https://www.cnn.com/2016/04/25/travel/aerial-hong-kong-photography/index.html) for his tips on how to capture Hong Kong in beautiful, original shots. Visit his [website](http://www.andyyeungphotography.com/) for more of his work. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Dragon's Back: \</strong\>This ridge-top path resembles the arching spine of a dormant dragon sprawling on the grounds of Shek O Country Park. It's widely considered one of the best urban hiking trails in Hong Kong. Click on to see more of the city's most beautiful places. ](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Dragon's Back:** This ridge-top path resembles the arching spine of a dormant dragon sprawling on the grounds of Shek O Country Park. It's widely considered one of the best urban hiking trails in Hong Kong. Click on to see more of the city's most beautiful places. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Sky 100: \</strong\>This 360-degree observation deck is located on the 100th floor of Hong Kong's tallest skyscraper. The 118-story International Commerce Center towers over Victoria Harbor.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Sky 100:** This 360-degree observation deck is located on the 100th floor of Hong Kong's tallest skyscraper. The 118-story International Commerce Center towers over Victoria Harbor. Anuchit Kamsongmueang/Moment Editorial/Getty Images ![\<strong\>Big Buddha: \</strong\>Surrounded by lush mountains, the majestic but humbly-gestured bronze statue of Buddha Shakyamuni stands 34 meters high. Located on Lantau Island, you have to climb 268 steps to reach it. ](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Big Buddha:** Surrounded by lush mountains, the majestic but humbly-gestured bronze statue of Buddha Shakyamuni stands 34 meters high. Located on Lantau Island, you have to climb 268 steps to reach it. Jonas Gratzer/LightRocket via Getty Images ![\<strong\>Tai Lam Country Park: \</strong\>This expansive country park of 5,412 hectares is the second largest in Hong Kong, after Lantau South Country Park. The Tai Lam Chung Reservoir (pictured), built after World War II, has a storage capacity of 20 million cubic meters.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Tai Lam Country Park:** This expansive country park of 5,412 hectares is the second largest in Hong Kong, after Lantau South Country Park. The Tai Lam Chung Reservoir (pictured), built after World War II, has a storage capacity of 20 million cubic meters. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\> Kowloon Park: \</strong\>Tucked in the hectic harborside neighborhood of Tsim Sha Tsui, this tranquil enclave was the former site of the British Army's Whitfield Barracks. It was redeveloped into a public park in the 1970s.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Kowloon Park:** Tucked in the hectic harborside neighborhood of Tsim Sha Tsui, this tranquil enclave was the former site of the British Army's Whitfield Barracks. It was redeveloped into a public park in the 1970s. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Wan Chai: \</strong\>The neighborhood of Wan Chai, near the city's central business district, is home to tram lines, a vibrant bar scene, outdoor markets, heritage sites like the Blue House and The Pawn, as well as new high-rise developments.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Wan Chai:** The neighborhood of Wan Chai, near the city's central business district, is home to tram lines, a vibrant bar scene, outdoor markets, heritage sites like the Blue House and The Pawn, as well as new high-rise developments. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Sai Wan swimming shed: \</strong\>This last surviving swimming shed in Hong Kong protrudes from the westernmost tip of Hong Kong Island. These days, the wooden pier is more popular with Instagrammers than those looking for a dip.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Sai Wan swimming shed:** This last surviving swimming shed in Hong Kong protrudes from the westernmost tip of Hong Kong Island. These days, the wooden pier is more popular with Instagrammers than those looking for a dip. marco wong/Moment Open/Getty Images ![\<strong\>Cape D'Aguilar Lighthouse: \</strong\>Built in 1875, this pre-war structure is one of Hong Kong's oldest and last remaining lighthouses. It's located on Shek O peninsula at the southeastern tip of Hong Kong Island.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Cape D'Aguilar Lighthouse:** Built in 1875, this pre-war structure is one of Hong Kong's oldest and last remaining lighthouses. It's located on Shek O peninsula at the southeastern tip of Hong Kong Island. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Dai pai dong, Central: \</strong\>Alfresco eateries, like this one pictured in Central, are an endangered species. There are fewer than 30 holders of non-renewable "dai pai dong" licenses left. The sight of these plastic stools and fold-up tables topped with bundles of chopsticks might spark nostalgia, but customers still stream to them for a fix of Cantonese comfort food.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Dai pai dong, Central:** Alfresco eateries, like this one pictured in Central, are an endangered species. There are fewer than 30 holders of non-renewable "dai pai dong" licenses left. The sight of these plastic stools and fold-up tables topped with bundles of chopsticks might spark nostalgia, but customers still stream to them for a fix of Cantonese comfort food. ANTHONY WALLACE/AFP/Getty Images ![\<strong\>Asia Society: \</strong\>Integrated into the green, naturally steep slopes of Admiralty, Asia Society Hong Kong Center is a group of buildings used by the British military in the 19th century. It now serves as a cultural and intellectual hub.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Asia Society:** Integrated into the green, naturally steep slopes of Admiralty, Asia Society Hong Kong Center is a group of buildings used by the British military in the 19th century. It now serves as a cultural and intellectual hub. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Shek O village: \</strong\>The beachside village of Shek O, as seen here from Dragon's Back, is located just south of Big Wave Bay, Hong Kong's surfing jewel.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Shek O village:** The beachside village of Shek O, as seen here from Dragon's Back, is located just south of Big Wave Bay, Hong Kong's surfing jewel. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Tsing Ma Bridge: \</strong\>This bridge connecting the islands of Tsing Yi and Ma Wan -- where it got its name -- spans 1,377 meters and became the world's second-longest bridge when it opened in 1997. The six-lane suspension bridge is now the ninth-longest in the world.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Tsing Ma Bridge:** This bridge connecting the islands of Tsing Yi and Ma Wan -- where it got its name -- spans 1,377 meters and became the world's second-longest bridge when it opened in 1997. The six-lane suspension bridge is now the ninth-longest in the world. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Ung Kong Group: \</strong\>Ung Kong is a group of three small islands in southeastern Hong Kong, made up of Bluff Island, Basalt Island and Wang Chau, where a natural mural of hexagonal rock columns lines the coast. ](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Ung Kong Group:** Ung Kong is a group of three small islands in southeastern Hong Kong, made up of Bluff Island, Basalt Island and Wang Chau, where a natural mural of hexagonal rock columns lines the coast. Photo courtesy Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department ![\<strong\>Happy Valley Racecourse: \</strong\>The swampland-turned-racecourse, now surrounded by tall residential buildings, is a world-class venue for horse racing. Races were first held in 1846. Today it continues to be an electrifying event for Hong Kongers and tourists every Wednesday. ](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Happy Valley Racecourse:** The swampland-turned-racecourse, now surrounded by tall residential buildings, is a world-class venue for horse racing. Races were first held in 1846. Today it continues to be an electrifying event for Hong Kongers and tourists every Wednesday. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Neon lights, Mong Kok: \</strong\>Hong Kong's neon lights flourished in the post-war decades, layers upon layers of them lining the city's thoroughfares and roads. Today they're disappearing fast, being replaced by more energy-efficient LED lights. Veteran bamboo scaffolders are able to deftly navigate these heights. ](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Neon lights, Mong Kok:** Hong Kong's neon lights flourished in the post-war decades, layers upon layers of them lining the city's thoroughfares and roads. Today they're disappearing fast, being replaced by more energy-efficient LED lights. Veteran bamboo scaffolders are able to deftly navigate these heights. PETER PARKS/AFP/Getty Images ![\<strong\>Cheung Chau Bun Festival: \</strong\>Okay, we're not sure about "beautiful," but it's certainly epic. Participants clamber up these summits of steamed buns as part of an annual bun-snatching competition and Da Jiu festival on the island of Cheung Chau. ](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Cheung Chau Bun Festival:** Okay, we're not sure about "beautiful," but it's certainly epic. Participants clamber up these summits of steamed buns as part of an annual bun-snatching competition and Da Jiu festival on the island of Cheung Chau. Lo Ka Fai/China Photos/Getty Images ![\<strong\>Victoria Harbor: \</strong\>Over-photographed, maybe, but we still can't get enough of it. Hong Kong-based photographer Andy Yeung snapped this beautiful pic of Victoria Harbor during golden hour. Click \<a href="https://www.cnn.com/2016/04/25/travel/aerial-hong-kong-photography/index.html" target="\_blank"\>here\</a\> for his tips on how to capture Hong Kong in beautiful, original shots. Visit his \<a href="http://www.andyyeungphotography.com/" target="\_blank" target="\_blank"\>website\</a\> for more of his work.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Victoria Harbor:** Over-photographed, maybe, but we still can't get enough of it. Hong Kong-based photographer Andy Yeung snapped this beautiful pic of Victoria Harbor during golden hour. Click [here](https://www.cnn.com/2016/04/25/travel/aerial-hong-kong-photography/index.html) for his tips on how to capture Hong Kong in beautiful, original shots. Visit his [website](http://www.andyyeungphotography.com/) for more of his work. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Dragon's Back: \</strong\>This ridge-top path resembles the arching spine of a dormant dragon sprawling on the grounds of Shek O Country Park. It's widely considered one of the best urban hiking trails in Hong Kong. Click on to see more of the city's most beautiful places. ](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Dragon's Back:** This ridge-top path resembles the arching spine of a dormant dragon sprawling on the grounds of Shek O Country Park. It's widely considered one of the best urban hiking trails in Hong Kong. Click on to see more of the city's most beautiful places. Andy Yeung ![\<strong\>Sky 100: \</strong\>This 360-degree observation deck is located on the 100th floor of Hong Kong's tallest skyscraper. The 118-story International Commerce Center towers over Victoria Harbor.](https://www.cnn.com/media/sites/cnn/cnn-fallback-image.jpg) **Sky 100:** This 360-degree observation deck is located on the 100th floor of Hong Kong's tallest skyscraper. The 118-story International Commerce Center towers over Victoria Harbor. Anuchit Kamsongmueang/Moment Editorial/Getty Images ##### 17 of Hong Kong's most beautiful places 1 of 17 Prev Next “This is the last frontier from gentrification, over-thinking things and becoming ahead of ourselves,” says local chef and TV personality Christian Yang. “Guys like me need to come here and almost get reminded of where we come from. “They’ve kept the traditions and they’ve kept making things the way they used to make them.” Alvin Leung, known as “The Demon Chef,” heads up three Michelin star restaurant Bo Innovation. He echoes this resolve to keep the past alive. Opened in the bustling downtown district of Wan Chai in 2008, it serves dishes inspired by events or people in history, such as martial arts legend Bruce Lee and even Doctor Seuss. As for the decor, Leung worked with an artist to create a spectacular mural that depicts pivotal movements in Hong Kong’s history, such as the announcement of the handover. “It embodies the spirit of Hong Kong,” he explains. “What represented Hong Kong at that time was lots of immigrants. We came from a very humble beginning, but we have adapted.” ## Premium property Video Ad Feedback If it's Wednesday in Hong Kong, it's a safe bet that it's a night at the races 02:33 • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) If it's Wednesday in Hong Kong, it's a safe bet that it's a night at the races 02:33 The city’s ever-changing skyline is one of the clearest indications of how rapidly it’s adapted, particularly with the growth of Hong Kong Island’s eastern districts. Hong Kong now has more skyscrapers than anywhere else in the world. However, only 24% of the land here is developed, of which only 7% is used for housing. Much of the premium land ends up in the hands of the wealthy, meaning many Hong Kong residents live in shockingly cramped spaces. As a result, property here is at premium, with the market considered the most expensive in the world. On The Peak, one of its most exclusive neighborhoods, a four-bedroom house, measuring around 6,200 square feet, was last year listed for around [US\$446 million](https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-09-20/what-446-million-buys-in-hong-kong-this-four-bedroom-knockdown). [Related article Kebab city: How grilled meat makes sense of Istanbul's chaos](https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/istanbul-kebab-city-turkey/index.html) Positioned about 400 meters above sea level on Hong Kong island, The Peak also serves as a major tourist attraction. Around seven million people take The Peak Tram, one of the world’s steepest funicular railways, up here each year to witness the spectacular views of the city below. “Only the very rich and famous British people were permitted to live here before,” explains Binoche Chan, chief operating officer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong. “The Chinese started to have an address on the Peak, but it was a big fight.” While many of its properties were acquired by Hong Kong’s Chinese residents after the handover, the main buyers are now people from mainland China. “Hong Kong is always their first choice before they go to New York or London to buy their second, third or fourth property,” she says. ## Sense of identity **Unable to load video** Please try again later. Error occurred while fetching labs Video Ad Feedback Inside custom tailoring. Does the clothes make the man or the man the clothes? 03:16 • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) Inside custom tailoring. Does the clothes make the man or the man the clothes? 03:16 Mainland China invested \$8.57 billion in Hong Kong real estate in 2017, and financial ties between the two destinations have prevailed. As a free market economy, Hong Kong is largely dependent on international trade and finance, and mainland China accounts for around half of its total imports and exports. Meanwhile, tourism contributed to the city’s GDP by 4.7% in 2016, when it received 56.6 million visitors, many of who were from mainland China. But business aside, the political divides that developed during the 150-year separation between the two remain strong. [Related article Nairobi: The fastest city on the planet?](https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/nairobi-fastest-city-africa/index.html) Prior to the handover, government affairs in Hong Kong were overseen by a governor selected by the British Crown. But since 1997, the top Chief Executive has been chosen by an election committee of 1,194 people largely made up of pro-establishment voters who seem eager to carry out the wishes of the central government in Beijing. Frustrations over this system came to a head in 2014, resulting in the Umbrella Movement, in which tens of thousands of protesters shut down sections of the city for a staggering 79 days. [Several protest leaders were recently jailed](https://edition.cnn.com/2019/04/24/asia/umbrella-movement-leaders-sentence-intl/index.html). When a 2017 survey by the University of Hong Kong showed the number of young people living in the city who identified as Chinese was just 3.1%, political tensions were thought to be a contributing factor. Many young residents now see themselves as entirely separate, identifying as Hong Kongers. Meanwhile, in a separate poll conducted by the Public Opinion Programme of Hong Kong University, more than 55% of respondents said they had absolutely no confidence in Hong Kong’s future – the lowest figure since 1994. With such tensions continuing, it’s no surprise that the mere mention of the end of the 50-year plan causes discomfort for Hong Kongers. Now that the “one country, two systems” experiment is almost at its halfway point, only time will tell how things fare on the other side. However Yang, who grew up in the city during the handover years, says there’s no doubt in his mind that Hong Kong will emerge stronger than ever. “We survive, because we are survivors,” he says. 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Hong Kong CNN — [Hong Kong](http://www.cnn.com/travel/destinations/hong-kong) is a city that never stops moving – but midway through a 50-year political experiment as it transitions to Chinese rule, not everyone here knows which way they want it to move. For the traveler, the appeal of Hong Kong is – as it’s always been – that unique sense of history, energy and landscape. Whether in the green hills of the New Territories or the dense tower blocks of the Mid Levels, there’s nowhere like it on Earth. Ad Feedback Little wonder that so many – from the Chinese to the British, to the Japanese, and then British again – have fought over this [destination](http://www.cnn.com/travel/destinations). Ad Feedback It’s currently governed under an unusual structure, known as one country, two systems. That means that although it’s part of China, it has separate laws. In Hong Kong, they’re used to working across divides – whether geographical, lingual or ideological. Hong Kong island and Kowloon Peninsula sit across Victoria Harbour, connected for more than a century by the green and white [Star Ferries](https://edition.cnn.com/travel/article/star-ferry-hong-kong-history/index.html) that ply the water. And there are [two official languages](https://www.gov.hk/en/about/abouthk/facts.htm) – Chinese and English. But [travel](http://www.cnn.com/travel) to Hong Kong today and you’ll find a city at a crossroads. The vibrancy and purposefulness that created this place is now cut through with uncertainty. For some, that unique political experiment is beginning to take its toll. Back in 1997, when Britain handed Hong Kong back to China after more than 150 years, China agreed to maintain its British-implemented government system for 50 years. The Hong Kong Basic Law guarantees the freedoms of the people, such as the right to protest, the right to a free press, freedom of speech and so on. In fact, restrictions from China have led to pro-democracy protests, such as the 2014 “Umbrella Movement,” which challenged Beijing’s interference in Hong Kong’s political affairs and demanded Hong Kong be allowed to choose its own leaders. Video Ad Feedback The dish that the legendary martial artist and actor Bruce Lee inspired 02:33 • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) The dish that the legendary martial artist and actor Bruce Lee inspired 02:33 Now, with only 28 years remaining on the original plan, no one really knows what comes next. Will things stay as they are, move forward or could they take a step back once the 50 years are up? One thing’s for certain: Hong Kong has gone through many significant changes since the handover. With a population of more than 6.5 million people and growing wealth and resources, it was already considered a city on the rise back then. Now, it’s an economic powerhouse – Hong Kong’s gross domestic product has doubled since 1997. A visit to the working-class neighborhood of Sham Shui Po, located in the heart of Kowloon, provides an insight into just how far things have evolved, offering a glimpse into the past amid rapid change elsewhere in the city. Formerly the center of Hong Kong’s textiles manufacturing industry, it’s filled with bustling markets, some of the best street food around as well as historic buildings like Precious Blood Convent, formerly an outpatient clinic for babies. ##### 17 of Hong Kong's most beautiful places 1 of 17 “This is the last frontier from gentrification, over-thinking things and becoming ahead of ourselves,” says local chef and TV personality Christian Yang. “Guys like me need to come here and almost get reminded of where we come from. “They’ve kept the traditions and they’ve kept making things the way they used to make them.” Alvin Leung, known as “The Demon Chef,” heads up three Michelin star restaurant Bo Innovation. He echoes this resolve to keep the past alive. Opened in the bustling downtown district of Wan Chai in 2008, it serves dishes inspired by events or people in history, such as martial arts legend Bruce Lee and even Doctor Seuss. As for the decor, Leung worked with an artist to create a spectacular mural that depicts pivotal movements in Hong Kong’s history, such as the announcement of the handover. “It embodies the spirit of Hong Kong,” he explains. “What represented Hong Kong at that time was lots of immigrants. We came from a very humble beginning, but we have adapted.” Video Ad Feedback If it's Wednesday in Hong Kong, it's a safe bet that it's a night at the races 02:33 • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) If it's Wednesday in Hong Kong, it's a safe bet that it's a night at the races 02:33 The city’s ever-changing skyline is one of the clearest indications of how rapidly it’s adapted, particularly with the growth of Hong Kong Island’s eastern districts. Hong Kong now has more skyscrapers than anywhere else in the world. However, only 24% of the land here is developed, of which only 7% is used for housing. Much of the premium land ends up in the hands of the wealthy, meaning many Hong Kong residents live in shockingly cramped spaces. As a result, property here is at premium, with the market considered the most expensive in the world. On The Peak, one of its most exclusive neighborhoods, a four-bedroom house, measuring around 6,200 square feet, was last year listed for around [US\$446 million](https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-09-20/what-446-million-buys-in-hong-kong-this-four-bedroom-knockdown). Positioned about 400 meters above sea level on Hong Kong island, The Peak also serves as a major tourist attraction. Around seven million people take The Peak Tram, one of the world’s steepest funicular railways, up here each year to witness the spectacular views of the city below. “Only the very rich and famous British people were permitted to live here before,” explains Binoche Chan, chief operating officer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong. “The Chinese started to have an address on the Peak, but it was a big fight.” While many of its properties were acquired by Hong Kong’s Chinese residents after the handover, the main buyers are now people from mainland China. “Hong Kong is always their first choice before they go to New York or London to buy their second, third or fourth property,” she says. **Unable to load video** Please try again later. Error occurred while fetching labs Video Ad Feedback Inside custom tailoring. Does the clothes make the man or the man the clothes? 03:16 • Source: [CNN](https://www.cnn.com/) Inside custom tailoring. Does the clothes make the man or the man the clothes? 03:16 Mainland China invested \$8.57 billion in Hong Kong real estate in 2017, and financial ties between the two destinations have prevailed. As a free market economy, Hong Kong is largely dependent on international trade and finance, and mainland China accounts for around half of its total imports and exports. Meanwhile, tourism contributed to the city’s GDP by 4.7% in 2016, when it received 56.6 million visitors, many of who were from mainland China. But business aside, the political divides that developed during the 150-year separation between the two remain strong. Prior to the handover, government affairs in Hong Kong were overseen by a governor selected by the British Crown. But since 1997, the top Chief Executive has been chosen by an election committee of 1,194 people largely made up of pro-establishment voters who seem eager to carry out the wishes of the central government in Beijing. Frustrations over this system came to a head in 2014, resulting in the Umbrella Movement, in which tens of thousands of protesters shut down sections of the city for a staggering 79 days. [Several protest leaders were recently jailed](https://edition.cnn.com/2019/04/24/asia/umbrella-movement-leaders-sentence-intl/index.html). When a 2017 survey by the University of Hong Kong showed the number of young people living in the city who identified as Chinese was just 3.1%, political tensions were thought to be a contributing factor. Many young residents now see themselves as entirely separate, identifying as Hong Kongers. Meanwhile, in a separate poll conducted by the Public Opinion Programme of Hong Kong University, more than 55% of respondents said they had absolutely no confidence in Hong Kong’s future – the lowest figure since 1994. With such tensions continuing, it’s no surprise that the mere mention of the end of the 50-year plan causes discomfort for Hong Kongers. Now that the “one country, two systems” experiment is almost at its halfway point, only time will tell how things fare on the other side. However Yang, who grew up in the city during the handover years, says there’s no doubt in his mind that Hong Kong will emerge stronger than ever. “We survive, because we are survivors,” he says.
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