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| Boilerpipe Text | You know those recipes we hold near and dear to our hearts because they are really the greatest ever of all time? Well, we’re using this series as an opportunity to wax poetic about them. Associate food editor Claire Saffitz's grandmother's borscht, to be exact. They truly are the
greatest recipe of all time
. Here’s why.
My maternal grandmother, a.k.a. Nanny, wasn’t much of a cook. As a kid I remember her making only a handful of things, mostly dishes with Ashkenazi Jewish origins like kasha and bowties (which, for the record, only my dad liked). Although I never witnessed it, I hear she made mean blintzes and could keep two skillets going on the stove at a time. But that was about it. I have a childhood memory of spending the night at her apartment, just the two of us, and feeling excited that the advertisement of a sleepover at Nanny’s included ice cream in bed. In reality, I ate an ice cream sandwich over a bowl while sitting
next
to the bed. That was Nanny.
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But no one can dispute that she made a great borscht. Nanny’s was a thick, hearty, beef and cabbage borscht made with a handful of simple ingredients but to great effect. My mom has made a few amendments to the recipe over the years: Fresh roasted beets now replace the canned ones Nanny apparently used. Prepared sauerkraut takes the place of fresh cabbage and “
sour salt
.” The recipe my mom handed down to my sisters and me calls for “soup meat,” which I translate as chuck or any cut that benefits from long cooking, although Nanny used flanken, a cut taken from the front of the short ribs.
The method is simple: cut a
pound or so of chuck
into 1” pieces and simmer in a large pot of water with a
bay leaf
and a
whole peeled onion
. While the meat is cooking, roast
three large beets
, peel them, and cut into bite-sized pieces. When the meat is tender, pull out the onion, let cool, and thinly slice before returning to the pot. Add
2 cans sauerkraut plus juices
to pot along with a
can of tomato paste
and beets. Simmer for a few minutes until the mixture is a bright red. Add a
cup of brown sugar
, stir to dissolve, season with
salt
and
pepper
, and simmer about 15 minutes longer.
Yes, you read that correctly: 1 cup of brown sugar. It’s needed to balance the acid from the sauerkraut and gives the final dish that familiar sweet-and-sour flavor common in a lot of the cuisine of Eastern Europe, where my family originates.
This recipe is one of the few connections I have not only to my Nanny, who passed away in 2009, but also to her family. I know very little about my great grandparents, who came through Ellis Island in the early twentieth century, settled in Baltimore, and spoke only Yiddish. We have my Nanny on a home video telling stories about her family, but a lot of that information seems apocryphal. She speaks the name of the town in present day Ukraine/Russia/Poland where my great grandparents were from, but we could never locate it—we continue to refer to it generically as “the Old Country,” wherever that may be. We once found two different birth certificates for Nanny dated two years apart and still don’t know which was correct. The propensity for conflating fact and fiction appears genetic. My mom, whose given name is Sharon but has been called Sauci all her life, famously tells multiple competing versions of how she got that nickname.
Perhaps that’s all just license to invent my own origin story of Nanny’s borscht. Perhaps Jacob and Sophie Cierler, my great grandparents, made a pot of this borscht and took it on the boat from their
shtetl
in Ukraine/Poland/Russia to Ellis Island and it fortified them for the entire trip. True or not, it’s a damn good soup and something I make several times a season. At least in my family, it is the greatest recipe of all time. |
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# Borscht Is the Greatest Recipe of All Time
Borscht is the greatest recipe of all time. Here's why.

By [Claire Saffitz](https://www.bonappetit.com/contributor/claire-saffitz)
March 11, 2015

Alex Lau
All products featured on Bon Appétit are independently selected by our editors. However, we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links.
*You know those recipes we hold near and dear to our hearts because they are really the greatest ever of all time? Well, we’re using this series as an opportunity to wax poetic about them. Associate food editor Claire Saffitz's grandmother's borscht, to be exact. They truly are the [greatest recipe of all time](https://www.bonappetit.com/tag/greatest-recipe-of-all-time). Here’s why.*
My maternal grandmother, a.k.a. Nanny, wasn’t much of a cook. As a kid I remember her making only a handful of things, mostly dishes with Ashkenazi Jewish origins like kasha and bowties (which, for the record, only my dad liked). Although I never witnessed it, I hear she made mean blintzes and could keep two skillets going on the stove at a time. But that was about it. I have a childhood memory of spending the night at her apartment, just the two of us, and feeling excited that the advertisement of a sleepover at Nanny’s included ice cream in bed. In reality, I ate an ice cream sandwich over a bowl while sitting *next* to the bed. That was Nanny.
### The Bon Appétit daily newsletter
Our very best recipes, editor-vetted cookware, and rigorous reporting, all in one place—in your inbox every day.
But no one can dispute that she made a great borscht. Nanny’s was a thick, hearty, beef and cabbage borscht made with a handful of simple ingredients but to great effect. My mom has made a few amendments to the recipe over the years: Fresh roasted beets now replace the canned ones Nanny apparently used. Prepared sauerkraut takes the place of fresh cabbage and “[sour salt](http://www.amazon.com/Gefen-Sour-Salt-Prima-Spice/dp/B008BMHD54).” The recipe my mom handed down to my sisters and me calls for “soup meat,” which I translate as chuck or any cut that benefits from long cooking, although Nanny used flanken, a cut taken from the front of the short ribs.
Watch
[Only 16 People a Night Can Eat This 17-Course Omakase](https://www.bonappetit.com/video/watch/on-the-line-only-16-people-a-night-can-eat-this-17-course-omakase)
The method is simple: cut a **pound or so of chuck** into 1” pieces and simmer in a large pot of water with a **bay leaf** and a **whole peeled onion**. While the meat is cooking, roast **three large beets**, peel them, and cut into bite-sized pieces. When the meat is tender, pull out the onion, let cool, and thinly slice before returning to the pot. Add **2 cans sauerkraut plus juices** to pot along with a **can of tomato paste** and beets. Simmer for a few minutes until the mixture is a bright red. Add a **cup of brown sugar**, stir to dissolve, season with **salt** and **pepper**, and simmer about 15 minutes longer.
Yes, you read that correctly: 1 cup of brown sugar. It’s needed to balance the acid from the sauerkraut and gives the final dish that familiar sweet-and-sour flavor common in a lot of the cuisine of Eastern Europe, where my family originates.
This recipe is one of the few connections I have not only to my Nanny, who passed away in 2009, but also to her family. I know very little about my great grandparents, who came through Ellis Island in the early twentieth century, settled in Baltimore, and spoke only Yiddish. We have my Nanny on a home video telling stories about her family, but a lot of that information seems apocryphal. She speaks the name of the town in present day Ukraine/Russia/Poland where my great grandparents were from, but we could never locate it—we continue to refer to it generically as “the Old Country,” wherever that may be. We once found two different birth certificates for Nanny dated two years apart and still don’t know which was correct. The propensity for conflating fact and fiction appears genetic. My mom, whose given name is Sharon but has been called Sauci all her life, famously tells multiple competing versions of how she got that nickname.
Perhaps that’s all just license to invent my own origin story of Nanny’s borscht. Perhaps Jacob and Sophie Cierler, my great grandparents, made a pot of this borscht and took it on the boat from their *shtetl* in Ukraine/Poland/Russia to Ellis Island and it fortified them for the entire trip. True or not, it’s a damn good soup and something I make several times a season. At least in my family, it is the greatest recipe of all time.
[](https://www.bonappetit.com/contributor/claire-saffitz)
A former senior food editor at *Bon Appétit*, Claire Saffitz was the host of the popular series Gourmet Makes before leaving the company in 2020. She is the bestselling author of [*Dessert Person*](https://cna.st/affiliate-link/2WCz5sTzof1nrbSERuvGySoiYsgwwRpgRBUQyijR1queC1YRtmMyyyMXxdD9LvjXT6eEcP7uTdcvrhFSXsjn5sursrqHwByGyyVo6VgGxzXdi8jq6g3tJog2gHXWFRoN2yutj16QdTopYenVpUsV?cid=57320d6524818ec8198dd26b) and [*What's for Dessert*](https://cna.st/affiliate-link/2QvS63bbj2Qv8G9WGUiLbW5FbJKFoqvPiFUWYre1poJYv9gquGb45W64AiwW3DgMmgkfT2pAT5yLmgaqhLGz2ARFsszFf6JdZwNeTbMGiL4QW2fbzkxhAy8aGgonAa5xgNFgz2xqJCEnPNjo1jvR) and currently hosts a companion series to her books on YouTube, also called ... [Read More](https://www.bonappetit.com/contributor/claire-saffitz)
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| Readable Markdown | *You know those recipes we hold near and dear to our hearts because they are really the greatest ever of all time? Well, we’re using this series as an opportunity to wax poetic about them. Associate food editor Claire Saffitz's grandmother's borscht, to be exact. They truly are the [greatest recipe of all time](https://www.bonappetit.com/tag/greatest-recipe-of-all-time). Here’s why.*
My maternal grandmother, a.k.a. Nanny, wasn’t much of a cook. As a kid I remember her making only a handful of things, mostly dishes with Ashkenazi Jewish origins like kasha and bowties (which, for the record, only my dad liked). Although I never witnessed it, I hear she made mean blintzes and could keep two skillets going on the stove at a time. But that was about it. I have a childhood memory of spending the night at her apartment, just the two of us, and feeling excited that the advertisement of a sleepover at Nanny’s included ice cream in bed. In reality, I ate an ice cream sandwich over a bowl while sitting *next* to the bed. That was Nanny.
### The Bon Appétit daily newsletter
Our very best recipes, editor-vetted cookware, and rigorous reporting, all in one place—in your inbox every day.
But no one can dispute that she made a great borscht. Nanny’s was a thick, hearty, beef and cabbage borscht made with a handful of simple ingredients but to great effect. My mom has made a few amendments to the recipe over the years: Fresh roasted beets now replace the canned ones Nanny apparently used. Prepared sauerkraut takes the place of fresh cabbage and “[sour salt](http://www.amazon.com/Gefen-Sour-Salt-Prima-Spice/dp/B008BMHD54).” The recipe my mom handed down to my sisters and me calls for “soup meat,” which I translate as chuck or any cut that benefits from long cooking, although Nanny used flanken, a cut taken from the front of the short ribs.
The method is simple: cut a **pound or so of chuck** into 1” pieces and simmer in a large pot of water with a **bay leaf** and a **whole peeled onion**. While the meat is cooking, roast **three large beets**, peel them, and cut into bite-sized pieces. When the meat is tender, pull out the onion, let cool, and thinly slice before returning to the pot. Add **2 cans sauerkraut plus juices** to pot along with a **can of tomato paste** and beets. Simmer for a few minutes until the mixture is a bright red. Add a **cup of brown sugar**, stir to dissolve, season with **salt** and **pepper**, and simmer about 15 minutes longer.
Yes, you read that correctly: 1 cup of brown sugar. It’s needed to balance the acid from the sauerkraut and gives the final dish that familiar sweet-and-sour flavor common in a lot of the cuisine of Eastern Europe, where my family originates.
This recipe is one of the few connections I have not only to my Nanny, who passed away in 2009, but also to her family. I know very little about my great grandparents, who came through Ellis Island in the early twentieth century, settled in Baltimore, and spoke only Yiddish. We have my Nanny on a home video telling stories about her family, but a lot of that information seems apocryphal. She speaks the name of the town in present day Ukraine/Russia/Poland where my great grandparents were from, but we could never locate it—we continue to refer to it generically as “the Old Country,” wherever that may be. We once found two different birth certificates for Nanny dated two years apart and still don’t know which was correct. The propensity for conflating fact and fiction appears genetic. My mom, whose given name is Sharon but has been called Sauci all her life, famously tells multiple competing versions of how she got that nickname.
Perhaps that’s all just license to invent my own origin story of Nanny’s borscht. Perhaps Jacob and Sophie Cierler, my great grandparents, made a pot of this borscht and took it on the boat from their *shtetl* in Ukraine/Poland/Russia to Ellis Island and it fortified them for the entire trip. True or not, it’s a damn good soup and something I make several times a season. At least in my family, it is the greatest recipe of all time. |
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