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Meta TitleLa Cuenta, Por Favor - by Maddie Kirkby
Meta DescriptionRoasted tomatillo guacamole, plus fresh coconuts and tacos galore
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As a California kid, I confess to being a bit of a weather wimp. I’m probably gonna throw on my down jacket if the temperature drops below 50°F, and use a room fan if it rises above 75°F. I don’t own rain boots, and my warmest jacket isn’t even waterproof. We are so spoiled with our temperate climate, especially during the winter months. Even still, every year during the darker, chillier months, I suffer from a bit of seasonal depression. The short days and less exposure to sunlight really does get to me. This year, Cullen and I cosplayed as snowbirds for our honeymoon, ditching a drizzly Bay Area for the heat of MĂ©xico. And even though we weren’t escaping blizzards or sub-zero temperatures, my seasonal depression, my husband, and I were thrilled for some time exploring in the sunshine. Photograph © Cullen Conboy We gladly sweated our way around Oaxaca City, reapplying sunscreen (yay!), exploring the center of the city as well as Monte AlbĂĄn, an archaeological site outside of the city. We ate lots of quesillo, tried (and LOVED) Tejate—a traditional Oaxacan drink made from steeping corn flour, fermented cocoa pods, pixtle, and cocoa flowers—and drank a lot of (maybe too much?) mezcal. We became smitten with the tacos at Tacos del Carmen, especially the chile relleno taco, which was meaty and cheesy and rolled up in a freshly made tortilla. A friend from college happened to be getting married in Oaxaca the same exact weekend we were there, and she and her husband graciously invited us to join in on their traditional wedding parade. People were dancing and passing around shots of mezcal to live music 
 what a party! Photograph © Maddie Kirkby From there, we bussed to Puerto Escondido, a beach town about three hours south of Oaxaca City. We were enamored of the relaxed and beachy vibe in the Centro, as well as the more touristy Zicatela and La Punta areas. We started our trip off strong with ice-cold Victorias and fish tacos at a laid back cafe right by our Airbnb, Botanero Oaxachi. The owner welcomed us with kindness and a little plate of smoky, fried sail fish. We went for sweaty morning runs, scooted around town on a rented motor scooter, practiced our Spanish with the locals, and ate seafood tacos galore! There were people selling fresh cold coconuts EVERYWHERE—“Cocos Frios”—and I know I’m probably so late to the game, but I’m obsessed. Sitting in warm sand sipping cool coconut water through a straw is now one of my new favorite activities—just what the doctor ordered for a light case of seasonal depression! We ordered the best guacamole ever—super limey and flecked with roasted tomatillos—at Fish Shack La Punta, and it came surrounded by the best tortilla chips of the trip 
 so good we came back for the same order the next day. Photograph © Maddie Kirkby (the roasted tomatillo guacamole that inspired the recipe below!) Our final destination was MĂ©xico City. Maria and I have been working on several projects with chefs based here, so this part of the trip was really meaningful to me. Our Airbnb was located in Roma Norte on the Plaza Rio de Janeiro, a mere four minute walk from PanaderĂ­a Rosetta. We walked through the park every morning to get pastries and coffee, and it was a dream. One morning, we jogged through Roma over to La Condesa and took a lap around Avenida Amsterdam. It was fun to see people walking their dogs, parents with their babies in strollers, people on their way to work ordering cafe de olla from street vendors. We explored Bosque de Chapultepec, popping into the Museo Nacional de Antropologia one day and the zoo (it’s free!) the next. We discovered the importance of eating a snack taco/quesadilla at 11 am to tide us over until our lunch tacos/quesadillas at 2 pm. We only scratched the surface of exploration of this vast city, and I am already eager to return. Photograph © Cullen Conboy (Maddie and the famous guava roll from PanaderĂ­a Rosetta) Everywhere we ate and drank on our trip, it was clear how much intention, care, hustle, and passion was put into every bite and sip. As someone in the food industry, I know how much hard work and dedication goes into making a food business work, and how many tough decisions you are faced with. Everyone is trying to make it work and make a living. In cooking food to share with others, these people are also sharing their perspective on their traditions, history, and culture with us. We had such an incredible trip, and arrived home feeling so full, physically (tacos) and spiritually. Traveling is such a privilege, especially today. Right now, many folks can’t risk leaving their families and homes, and crossing borders is too difficult or simply too dangerous. Beyond that, it takes time and money, effort and planning. You are constantly making decisions, weighing options, and compromising with your husband on taking public transportation (while he is compromising with you on taking Ubers). Photograph © Maddie Kirkby Honestly, traveling usually isn’t “easy.” I think that is part of what makes doing it so rewarding and important, if you get the chance. Having the opportunity to see another part of the world, learn about its history and culture, eat the foods, and speak with the people, helps us become more understanding, compassionate, and interesting. Stumbling through interactions in Spanish at the metro station or with our taxi driver was really humbling and empowering. It reinvigorated me with empathy for those in my own community who speak in their non-native language every day, who have to problem solve, get jobs, run companies, form friendships, and advocate for themselves and the people they love in their second or even third languages. We are home now, sunburnt and grateful, daydreaming of mezcalitas on the beach and huitlacoche quesadillas. While my gut is thanking me for taking a break from a mid-afternoon marg, I already long for the next trip, the next chance at learning more about the people who inhabit our shared world. In the meantime, I leave you with a recipe for roasted tomatillo guacamole, and a mini food guide to MĂ©xico City (exclusively for paid subscribers to Recipe of the Month—thank you for your support!). Photograph © Maddie Kirkby This recipe is in honor of Fish Shack La Punta in Puerto Escondido, MĂ©xico, which tragically burned down a few weeks after we dined there in February. It was a bustling outdoor restaurant tucked in an alleyway between the main street and the beach, and it absolutely cranked out fish tacos. Their guac was ever so limey and speckled with roasted flecks of tomatillo. When I ordered it for a second time, I knew that I needed to re-create it at home. This version is limey, spicy, and tangy. Make sure you eat this with the oiliest, shatteriest tortilla chips (I love the ones from El Molino Tortilleria), and allow yourself to be transported to the beach. Serves 2 to 4 5 tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed ÂŒ white onion 1 garlic clove Extra-virgin olive oil 1 serrano chile, stem and seeds removed Fine sea salt 2 large avocados 1 to 2 juicy limes œ bunch cilantro, plus extra leaves to garnish ÂŒ teaspoon chipotle chile powder, plus extra to garnish Your favorite tortilla chips (the oilier and flakier the better!), to serve Cut the tomatillos into halves, slice the onion into thick strips, and peel the garlic. Heat a medium cast-iron skillet over medium heat until water sprinkled onto it dances on the surface. Drizzle about œ tablespoon of olive oil into the skillet and add the onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatillo halves to the skillet, cut-side down, as well as the serrano and garlic. Make sure each tomatillo half has direct contact with the skillet. Cook for 5 minutes, undisturbed, then use tongs to flip each tomatillo half, and also flip the serrano and garlic to cook the other sides. Cook until the tomatillos have transformed from bright green to dull green and are nicely charred on both sides, 5 minutes more. The onions will have softened and taken on a little color, and the garlic will be hot and just starting to brown. Transfer everything to a large cutting board to cool to room temperature. (This is optional, but you can also char lime wedges at this point too, which will give them a gorgeous smoky flavor.) Meanwhile, finely chop the cilantro and place it in a medium bowl. Use a large knife to chop the charred vegetables, mixing everything together as you go, until the mixture has a coarse salsa-like texture. Transfer to the bowl with the cilantro, and season with the chipotle chile powder and salt. Taste the salsa and check for seasoning—it should be tangy and taste good enough to eat as is. Halve the avocados, using a knife to cut the fruit into cubes. Scoop the avocado into the bowl with the salsa. Use a spoon to gently toss until combined. Squeeze the juice of 1 to 2 limes over the guacamole as well as a generous pinch of salt. Gently stir the guacamole until the salt and lime is well incorporated, and taste for seasoning. Add more lime juice or salt at this point if needed. Transfer to a bowl and garnish with a few fresh cilantro leaves, a light dusting of chipotle chile powder, and a charred lime wedge, if you like. Arrange tortilla chips around the perimeter of the bowl, encouraging people to take a dip! No posts
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[![Recipe of the Month](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Hi4w!,w_40,h_40,c_fill,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fbucketeer-e05bbc84-baa3-437e-9518-adb32be77984.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F66d0af5e-efc2-40b1-8d8c-ded5dbef3149_256x256.png)](https://mariazizka.substack.com/) # [Recipe of the Month](https://mariazizka.substack.com/) Subscribe Sign in # La Cuenta, Por Favor ### Roasted tomatillo guacamole, plus fresh coconuts and tacos galore [![Maddie Kirkby's avatar](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!yLCM!,w_36,h_36,c_fill,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7da422a9-4dc6-43a2-a011-0b9f8cc9b06e_1544x1158.jpeg)](https://substack.com/@maddiekirkby) [Maddie Kirkby](https://substack.com/@maddiekirkby) Mar 20, 2026 1 Share As a California kid, I confess to being a bit of a weather wimp. I’m probably gonna throw on my down jacket if the temperature drops below 50°F, and use a room fan if it rises above 75°F. I don’t own rain boots, and my warmest jacket isn’t even waterproof. We are so spoiled with our temperate climate, especially during the winter months. Even still, every year during the darker, chillier months, I suffer from a bit of seasonal depression. The short days and less exposure to sunlight really does get to me. This year, Cullen and I cosplayed as snowbirds for our honeymoon, ditching a drizzly Bay Area for the heat of MĂ©xico. And even though we weren’t escaping blizzards or sub-zero temperatures, my seasonal depression, my husband, and I were thrilled for some time exploring in the sunshine. [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!XD23!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4878c9c9-27c1-4536-9761-595ddc955975_1536x2048.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!XD23!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4878c9c9-27c1-4536-9761-595ddc955975_1536x2048.jpeg) Photograph © Cullen Conboy We gladly sweated our way around Oaxaca City, reapplying sunscreen (yay!), exploring the center of the city as well as Monte AlbĂĄn, an archaeological site outside of the city. We ate lots of quesillo, tried (and LOVED) Tejate—a traditional Oaxacan drink made from steeping corn flour, fermented cocoa pods, pixtle, and cocoa flowers—and drank a lot of (maybe too much?) mezcal. We became smitten with the tacos at Tacos del Carmen, especially the chile relleno taco, which was meaty and cheesy and rolled up in a freshly made tortilla. A friend from college happened to be getting married in Oaxaca the same exact weekend we were there, and she and her husband graciously invited us to join in on their traditional wedding parade. People were dancing and passing around shots of mezcal to live music 
 what a party\! [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Jq9t!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F293130b1-7bb7-4715-b0e0-a409c4427cd0_4032x3024.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Jq9t!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F293130b1-7bb7-4715-b0e0-a409c4427cd0_4032x3024.jpeg) Photograph © Maddie Kirkby From there, we bussed to Puerto Escondido, a beach town about three hours south of Oaxaca City. We were enamored of the relaxed and beachy vibe in the Centro, as well as the more touristy Zicatela and La Punta areas. We started our trip off strong with ice-cold Victorias and fish tacos at a laid back cafe right by our Airbnb, Botanero Oaxachi. The owner welcomed us with kindness and a little plate of smoky, fried sail fish. We went for sweaty morning runs, scooted around town on a rented motor scooter, practiced our Spanish with the locals, and ate seafood tacos galore! There were people selling fresh cold coconuts EVERYWHERE—“Cocos Frios”—and I know I’m probably so late to the game, but I’m obsessed. Sitting in warm sand sipping cool coconut water through a straw is now one of my new favorite activities—just what the doctor ordered for a light case of seasonal depression\! Recipe of the Month is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support our work, consider becoming a paid subscriber. We ordered the best guacamole ever—super limey and flecked with roasted tomatillos—at Fish Shack La Punta, and it came surrounded by the best tortilla chips of the trip 
 so good we came back for the same order the next day. [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9A5w!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5dabc386-c565-43bf-ba61-e8cac74d31a9_4032x3024.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9A5w!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5dabc386-c565-43bf-ba61-e8cac74d31a9_4032x3024.jpeg) Photograph © Maddie Kirkby (the roasted tomatillo guacamole that inspired the recipe below!) Our final destination was MĂ©xico City. Maria and I have been working on several projects with chefs based here, so this part of the trip was really meaningful to me. Our Airbnb was located in Roma Norte on the Plaza Rio de Janeiro, a mere four minute walk from PanaderĂ­a Rosetta. We walked through the park every morning to get pastries and coffee, and it was a dream. One morning, we jogged through Roma over to La Condesa and took a lap around Avenida Amsterdam. It was fun to see people walking their dogs, parents with their babies in strollers, people on their way to work ordering cafe de olla from street vendors. We explored Bosque de Chapultepec, popping into the Museo Nacional de Antropologia one day and the zoo (it’s free!) the next. We discovered the importance of eating a snack taco/quesadilla at 11 am to tide us over until our lunch tacos/quesadillas at 2 pm. We only scratched the surface of exploration of this vast city, and I am already eager to return. [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HheW!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3fa5fe93-556e-4c3a-b7b0-59d870f57d28_4032x3024.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HheW!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3fa5fe93-556e-4c3a-b7b0-59d870f57d28_4032x3024.jpeg) Photograph © Cullen Conboy (Maddie and the famous guava roll from PanaderĂ­a Rosetta) Everywhere we ate and drank on our trip, it was clear how much intention, care, hustle, and passion was put into every bite and sip. As someone in the food industry, I know how much hard work and dedication goes into making a food business work, and how many tough decisions you are faced with. Everyone is trying to make it work and make a living. In cooking food to share with others, these people are also sharing their perspective on their traditions, history, and culture with us. We had such an incredible trip, and arrived home feeling so full, physically (tacos) and spiritually. Traveling is such a privilege, especially today. Right now, many folks can’t risk leaving their families and homes, and crossing borders is too difficult or simply too dangerous. Beyond that, it takes time and money, effort and planning. You are constantly making decisions, weighing options, and compromising with your husband on taking public transportation (while he is compromising with you on taking Ubers). [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r-Hy!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F03d65814-8cf4-4414-b258-4bacbc39758c_3024x4032.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r-Hy!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F03d65814-8cf4-4414-b258-4bacbc39758c_3024x4032.jpeg) Photograph © Maddie Kirkby Honestly, traveling usually isn’t “easy.” I think that is part of what makes doing it so rewarding and important, if you get the chance. Having the opportunity to see another part of the world, learn about its history and culture, eat the foods, and speak with the people, helps us become more understanding, compassionate, and interesting. Stumbling through interactions in Spanish at the metro station or with our taxi driver was really humbling and empowering. It reinvigorated me with empathy for those in my own community who speak in their non-native language every day, who have to problem solve, get jobs, run companies, form friendships, and advocate for themselves and the people they love in their second or even third languages. We are home now, sunburnt and grateful, daydreaming of mezcalitas on the beach and huitlacoche quesadillas. While my gut is thanking me for taking a break from a mid-afternoon marg, I already long for the next trip, the next chance at learning more about the people who inhabit our shared world. In the meantime, I leave you with a recipe for roasted tomatillo guacamole, and a mini food guide to MĂ©xico City (exclusively for paid subscribers to Recipe of the Month—thank you for your support!). To receive the food guide to MĂ©xico City (and all our other food guides!), become a paid subscriber here: [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r1ga!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb5dcac41-f5dd-42a9-8db3-63fff7b8ab8d_3024x4032.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r1ga!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb5dcac41-f5dd-42a9-8db3-63fff7b8ab8d_3024x4032.jpeg) Photograph © Maddie Kirkby ### Roasted Tomatillo Guacamole This recipe is in honor of Fish Shack La Punta in Puerto Escondido, MĂ©xico, which tragically burned down a few weeks after we dined there in February. It was a bustling outdoor restaurant tucked in an alleyway between the main street and the beach, and it absolutely cranked out fish tacos. Their guac was ever so limey and speckled with roasted flecks of tomatillo. When I ordered it for a second time, I knew that I needed to re-create it at home. This version is limey, spicy, and tangy. Make sure you eat this with the oiliest, shatteriest tortilla chips (I love the ones from El Molino Tortilleria), and allow yourself to be transported to the beach. Serves 2 to 4 5 tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed ÂŒ white onion 1 garlic clove Extra-virgin olive oil 1 serrano chile, stem and seeds removed Fine sea salt 2 large avocados 1 to 2 juicy limes œ bunch cilantro, plus extra leaves to garnish ÂŒ teaspoon chipotle chile powder, plus extra to garnish Your favorite tortilla chips (the oilier and flakier the better!), to serve Cut the tomatillos into halves, slice the onion into thick strips, and peel the garlic. Heat a medium cast-iron skillet over medium heat until water sprinkled onto it dances on the surface. Drizzle about œ tablespoon of olive oil into the skillet and add the onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatillo halves to the skillet, cut-side down, as well as the serrano and garlic. Make sure each tomatillo half has direct contact with the skillet. Cook for 5 minutes, undisturbed, then use tongs to flip each tomatillo half, and also flip the serrano and garlic to cook the other sides. Cook until the tomatillos have transformed from bright green to dull green and are nicely charred on both sides, 5 minutes more. The onions will have softened and taken on a little color, and the garlic will be hot and just starting to brown. Transfer everything to a large cutting board to cool to room temperature. (This is optional, but you can also char lime wedges at this point too, which will give them a gorgeous smoky flavor.) Meanwhile, finely chop the cilantro and place it in a medium bowl. Use a large knife to chop the charred vegetables, mixing everything together as you go, until the mixture has a coarse salsa-like texture. Transfer to the bowl with the cilantro, and season with the chipotle chile powder and salt. Taste the salsa and check for seasoning—it should be tangy and taste good enough to eat as is. Halve the avocados, using a knife to cut the fruit into cubes. Scoop the avocado into the bowl with the salsa. Use a spoon to gently toss until combined. Squeeze the juice of 1 to 2 limes over the guacamole as well as a generous pinch of salt. Gently stir the guacamole until the salt and lime is well incorporated, and taste for seasoning. Add more lime juice or salt at this point if needed. Transfer to a bowl and garnish with a few fresh cilantro leaves, a light dusting of chipotle chile powder, and a charred lime wedge, if you like. Arrange tortilla chips around the perimeter of the bowl, encouraging people to take a dip\! 1 Share #### Discussion about this post Comments Restacks Top Latest Discussions No posts ### Ready for more? © 2026 Maria Zizka · [Privacy](https://substack.com/privacy) ∙ [Terms](https://substack.com/tos) ∙ [Collection notice](https://substack.com/ccpa#personal-data-collected) [Start your Substack](https://substack.com/signup?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=web&utm_content=footer) [Get the app](https://substack.com/app/app-store-redirect?utm_campaign=app-marketing&utm_content=web-footer-button) [Substack](https://substack.com/) is the home for great culture This site requires JavaScript to run correctly. Please [turn on JavaScript](https://enable-javascript.com/) or unblock scripts
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As a California kid, I confess to being a bit of a weather wimp. I’m probably gonna throw on my down jacket if the temperature drops below 50°F, and use a room fan if it rises above 75°F. I don’t own rain boots, and my warmest jacket isn’t even waterproof. We are so spoiled with our temperate climate, especially during the winter months. Even still, every year during the darker, chillier months, I suffer from a bit of seasonal depression. The short days and less exposure to sunlight really does get to me. This year, Cullen and I cosplayed as snowbirds for our honeymoon, ditching a drizzly Bay Area for the heat of MĂ©xico. And even though we weren’t escaping blizzards or sub-zero temperatures, my seasonal depression, my husband, and I were thrilled for some time exploring in the sunshine. [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!XD23!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4878c9c9-27c1-4536-9761-595ddc955975_1536x2048.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!XD23!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4878c9c9-27c1-4536-9761-595ddc955975_1536x2048.jpeg) Photograph © Cullen Conboy We gladly sweated our way around Oaxaca City, reapplying sunscreen (yay!), exploring the center of the city as well as Monte AlbĂĄn, an archaeological site outside of the city. We ate lots of quesillo, tried (and LOVED) Tejate—a traditional Oaxacan drink made from steeping corn flour, fermented cocoa pods, pixtle, and cocoa flowers—and drank a lot of (maybe too much?) mezcal. We became smitten with the tacos at Tacos del Carmen, especially the chile relleno taco, which was meaty and cheesy and rolled up in a freshly made tortilla. A friend from college happened to be getting married in Oaxaca the same exact weekend we were there, and she and her husband graciously invited us to join in on their traditional wedding parade. People were dancing and passing around shots of mezcal to live music 
 what a party\! [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Jq9t!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F293130b1-7bb7-4715-b0e0-a409c4427cd0_4032x3024.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Jq9t!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F293130b1-7bb7-4715-b0e0-a409c4427cd0_4032x3024.jpeg) Photograph © Maddie Kirkby From there, we bussed to Puerto Escondido, a beach town about three hours south of Oaxaca City. We were enamored of the relaxed and beachy vibe in the Centro, as well as the more touristy Zicatela and La Punta areas. We started our trip off strong with ice-cold Victorias and fish tacos at a laid back cafe right by our Airbnb, Botanero Oaxachi. The owner welcomed us with kindness and a little plate of smoky, fried sail fish. We went for sweaty morning runs, scooted around town on a rented motor scooter, practiced our Spanish with the locals, and ate seafood tacos galore! There were people selling fresh cold coconuts EVERYWHERE—“Cocos Frios”—and I know I’m probably so late to the game, but I’m obsessed. Sitting in warm sand sipping cool coconut water through a straw is now one of my new favorite activities—just what the doctor ordered for a light case of seasonal depression\! We ordered the best guacamole ever—super limey and flecked with roasted tomatillos—at Fish Shack La Punta, and it came surrounded by the best tortilla chips of the trip 
 so good we came back for the same order the next day. [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9A5w!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5dabc386-c565-43bf-ba61-e8cac74d31a9_4032x3024.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!9A5w!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5dabc386-c565-43bf-ba61-e8cac74d31a9_4032x3024.jpeg) Photograph © Maddie Kirkby (the roasted tomatillo guacamole that inspired the recipe below!) Our final destination was MĂ©xico City. Maria and I have been working on several projects with chefs based here, so this part of the trip was really meaningful to me. Our Airbnb was located in Roma Norte on the Plaza Rio de Janeiro, a mere four minute walk from PanaderĂ­a Rosetta. We walked through the park every morning to get pastries and coffee, and it was a dream. One morning, we jogged through Roma over to La Condesa and took a lap around Avenida Amsterdam. It was fun to see people walking their dogs, parents with their babies in strollers, people on their way to work ordering cafe de olla from street vendors. We explored Bosque de Chapultepec, popping into the Museo Nacional de Antropologia one day and the zoo (it’s free!) the next. We discovered the importance of eating a snack taco/quesadilla at 11 am to tide us over until our lunch tacos/quesadillas at 2 pm. We only scratched the surface of exploration of this vast city, and I am already eager to return. [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HheW!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3fa5fe93-556e-4c3a-b7b0-59d870f57d28_4032x3024.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!HheW!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3fa5fe93-556e-4c3a-b7b0-59d870f57d28_4032x3024.jpeg) Photograph © Cullen Conboy (Maddie and the famous guava roll from PanaderĂ­a Rosetta) Everywhere we ate and drank on our trip, it was clear how much intention, care, hustle, and passion was put into every bite and sip. As someone in the food industry, I know how much hard work and dedication goes into making a food business work, and how many tough decisions you are faced with. Everyone is trying to make it work and make a living. In cooking food to share with others, these people are also sharing their perspective on their traditions, history, and culture with us. We had such an incredible trip, and arrived home feeling so full, physically (tacos) and spiritually. Traveling is such a privilege, especially today. Right now, many folks can’t risk leaving their families and homes, and crossing borders is too difficult or simply too dangerous. Beyond that, it takes time and money, effort and planning. You are constantly making decisions, weighing options, and compromising with your husband on taking public transportation (while he is compromising with you on taking Ubers). [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r-Hy!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F03d65814-8cf4-4414-b258-4bacbc39758c_3024x4032.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r-Hy!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F03d65814-8cf4-4414-b258-4bacbc39758c_3024x4032.jpeg) Photograph © Maddie Kirkby Honestly, traveling usually isn’t “easy.” I think that is part of what makes doing it so rewarding and important, if you get the chance. Having the opportunity to see another part of the world, learn about its history and culture, eat the foods, and speak with the people, helps us become more understanding, compassionate, and interesting. Stumbling through interactions in Spanish at the metro station or with our taxi driver was really humbling and empowering. It reinvigorated me with empathy for those in my own community who speak in their non-native language every day, who have to problem solve, get jobs, run companies, form friendships, and advocate for themselves and the people they love in their second or even third languages. We are home now, sunburnt and grateful, daydreaming of mezcalitas on the beach and huitlacoche quesadillas. While my gut is thanking me for taking a break from a mid-afternoon marg, I already long for the next trip, the next chance at learning more about the people who inhabit our shared world. In the meantime, I leave you with a recipe for roasted tomatillo guacamole, and a mini food guide to MĂ©xico City (exclusively for paid subscribers to Recipe of the Month—thank you for your support!). [![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r1ga!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb5dcac41-f5dd-42a9-8db3-63fff7b8ab8d_3024x4032.jpeg)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r1ga!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb5dcac41-f5dd-42a9-8db3-63fff7b8ab8d_3024x4032.jpeg) Photograph © Maddie Kirkby This recipe is in honor of Fish Shack La Punta in Puerto Escondido, MĂ©xico, which tragically burned down a few weeks after we dined there in February. It was a bustling outdoor restaurant tucked in an alleyway between the main street and the beach, and it absolutely cranked out fish tacos. Their guac was ever so limey and speckled with roasted flecks of tomatillo. When I ordered it for a second time, I knew that I needed to re-create it at home. This version is limey, spicy, and tangy. Make sure you eat this with the oiliest, shatteriest tortilla chips (I love the ones from El Molino Tortilleria), and allow yourself to be transported to the beach. Serves 2 to 4 5 tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed ÂŒ white onion 1 garlic clove Extra-virgin olive oil 1 serrano chile, stem and seeds removed Fine sea salt 2 large avocados 1 to 2 juicy limes œ bunch cilantro, plus extra leaves to garnish ÂŒ teaspoon chipotle chile powder, plus extra to garnish Your favorite tortilla chips (the oilier and flakier the better!), to serve Cut the tomatillos into halves, slice the onion into thick strips, and peel the garlic. Heat a medium cast-iron skillet over medium heat until water sprinkled onto it dances on the surface. Drizzle about œ tablespoon of olive oil into the skillet and add the onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatillo halves to the skillet, cut-side down, as well as the serrano and garlic. Make sure each tomatillo half has direct contact with the skillet. Cook for 5 minutes, undisturbed, then use tongs to flip each tomatillo half, and also flip the serrano and garlic to cook the other sides. Cook until the tomatillos have transformed from bright green to dull green and are nicely charred on both sides, 5 minutes more. The onions will have softened and taken on a little color, and the garlic will be hot and just starting to brown. Transfer everything to a large cutting board to cool to room temperature. (This is optional, but you can also char lime wedges at this point too, which will give them a gorgeous smoky flavor.) Meanwhile, finely chop the cilantro and place it in a medium bowl. Use a large knife to chop the charred vegetables, mixing everything together as you go, until the mixture has a coarse salsa-like texture. Transfer to the bowl with the cilantro, and season with the chipotle chile powder and salt. Taste the salsa and check for seasoning—it should be tangy and taste good enough to eat as is. Halve the avocados, using a knife to cut the fruit into cubes. Scoop the avocado into the bowl with the salsa. Use a spoon to gently toss until combined. Squeeze the juice of 1 to 2 limes over the guacamole as well as a generous pinch of salt. Gently stir the guacamole until the salt and lime is well incorporated, and taste for seasoning. Add more lime juice or salt at this point if needed. Transfer to a bowl and garnish with a few fresh cilantro leaves, a light dusting of chipotle chile powder, and a charred lime wedge, if you like. Arrange tortilla chips around the perimeter of the bowl, encouraging people to take a dip\! No posts
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