🕷️ Crawler Inspector

URL Lookup

Direct Parameter Lookup

Raw Queries and Responses

1. Shard Calculation

Query:

Response:

Calculated Shard: 65 (from laksa002)

2. Crawled Status Check

Query:

curl -X POST \
  'http://laksa065.int.ahrefs:8124/' \
  -H 'Content-Type: text/plain' \
  -H 'X-ClickHouse-Database: crawler3' \
  -H 'Authorization: Basic YXBpOg==' \
  -d 'SELECT getAhrefsURLFromUnparsed(src_unparsed) AS found_url, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(download_stamp), 0) AS crawl_time, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(props_url_first_seen), 0) AS first_indexed_time, download_http_code AS http_code, src_unparsed AS src_unparsed, src_root_hash AS src_root_hash, history_drop_reason AS history_drop_reason, meta_title AS meta_title, meta_descriptions AS meta_descriptions, attrs_boilerpipe_text AS attrs_boilerpipe_text, attrs_markdown AS attrs_markdown, attrs_readable_markdown AS attrs_readable_markdown, meta_canonical AS meta_canonical, ml_categories_json AS ml_categories_json, ml_types_json AS ml_types_json, ml_intent_types_json AS ml_intent_types_json, meta_language AS meta_language, attrs_author AS attrs_author, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(attrs_publish_time), 0) AS attrs_publish_time, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(attrs_original_publish_time), 0) AS attrs_original_publish_time, ifNull(attrs_is_republished, 0) AS attrs_is_republished, ifNull(attrs_nr_words, 0) AS attrs_nr_words, ifNull(attrs_boilerpipe_nr_words, 0) AS attrs_boilerpipe_nr_words, ifNull(body_ext_links_number, 0) AS body_ext_links_number, ifNull(body_int_links_number, 0) AS body_int_links_number, ifNull(meta_nofollow, 0) AS meta_nofollow, ifNull(meta_noarchive, 0) AS meta_noarchive, ifNull(props_was_rendered, 0) AS props_was_rendered, ifNull(src_redirect, \'\') AS src_redirect, ifNull(download_time_msec, 0) AS download_time_msec, ifNull(download_ttfb_msec, 0) AS download_ttfb_msec, ifNull(download_size, 0) AS download_size FROM crawler3.page_info_local FINAL PREWHERE (src_root_hash, src_unparsed) IN ((getAhrefsRootHashFromUnparsed(getAhrefsUnparsedNoserviceFromURL(\'https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/planting/planting-and-establishing-trees/\')), getAhrefsUnparsedNoserviceFromURL(\'https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/planting/planting-and-establishing-trees/\'))) FORMAT JSONEachRow'

Response:

{"found_url":"https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/planting\/planting-and-establishing-trees\/","crawl_time":1774355665,"first_indexed_time":1719353748,"http_code":200,"src_unparsed":"edu,ufl!ifas,gardeningsolutions,\/care\/planting\/planting-and-establishing-trees\/ s443","src_root_hash":"9649183866810524865","history_drop_reason":null,"meta_title":"Planting and Establishing Trees – Gardening Solutions","meta_descriptions":[],"attrs_boilerpipe_text":"How you plant and initially care for a tree has a significant impact on its health. When you plant a tree, keep the following in mind:\nChoose high-quality trees with good structure.\n Like any good investment, spending a little extra cash up front on a tree of superior quality will likely pay off in the long run.\nThink ahead.\n \nDon’t plant trees that grow large beneath power lines\n, close to your house, or in other potentially hazardous sites. If your home features solar panels, be sure any trees you plant will not block them.\nGive trees adequate rooting space, with no obstructions.\n Sturdy trees have straight main roots. Curbs, foundations, and sidewalks all act as barriers to roots, making them turn and twist. A tree with twisted roots will not be as stable as one with strong, straight roots.\nIf you can, plant trees in groups. \nTrees planted in groups are much better protected in high winds. In addition, trees planted in combination with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers form effective windbreaks and wildlife habitat.\nPlacement matters.\n Position trees and shrubs strategically to naturally cool or heat your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south, east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer and allow warming in winter. Tree shade can reduce air conditioning costs significantly—an air-conditioning system’s outdoor compressor\/condenser unit uses less energy when it is shaded from direct sun during the day. Just be careful not to block the unit’s airflow with low branches.\nHow to Plant Trees\nBegin your landscape renovation by putting walkways, irrigation systems or patios into place first; then plant trees. Because trees are a more permanent addition to the landscape, careful site selection and proper planting techniques are essential.\nLook up.\n Find a new planting site if there is a wire, security light or building nearby that could interfere with the tree as it grows.\nDig a wide, shallow hole. \nDig a hole that is two to three times the width of the root ball (the roots and soil attached to the plant when you remove it from its pot). You can also dig a hole that is only slightly larger than the root ball and simply loosen the soil around it with a shovel.\nFind the point where the uppermost root emerges from the trunk. \nThis point is called the trunk flare, root flare or root crown and should be even with, or slightly above, the soil surface. Remove any roots that circle close to the trunk. \nSlide the tree into the planting hole and position it carefully.\n Place the trunk flare slightly above the surface of the landscape soil and begin to fill the hole with the excavated soil, making sure the tree is straight as you go. As you add the soil, slice a shovel down into it twenty to thirty times, all around the tree. Compress the soil with your foot to stabilize the tree. \nShave off the outer inch or so of the root ball with a sharp shovel.\n This removes roots that could strangle the trunk later as it grows in diameter. It also encourages roots to quickly grow into the landscape soil and makes the tree sturdier in winds.\nAdd plenty of water to the root ball and planting hole.\n Make sure the root ball and surrounding soil are thoroughly moistened. Add more soil around the root ball if needed.\nCover the backfill soil with mulch. \nApply mulch to a minimum 8-foot diameter circle 3 inches deep around the tree, with a gap of 12 inches between the trunk and the mulch.\nStake the tree, if necessary.\n Staking holds the root ball firmly in the soil. Top-heavy trees might require staking, especially if they’re located in a windy location. Stakes should be removed within one year of planting.\nWater trees frequently so roots fully establish.\n Light, frequent irrigation fosters the quickest establishment for trees (see “Establishing Trees” below for more information). Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, water weekly until plants are fully established. \nProtecting Tree Roots\nThe health of a tree’s roots is one of the biggest factors in its success. Most tree roots are located in the top two feet of soil, where oxygen is most available. Digging near trees can cut roots, so make sure utilities are placed around or under them.\nCompacted soil is also a problem for tree roots. It contains little oxygen, which tree roots need to survive and grow. Soil compaction is caused by mowing under the tree canopy, heavy equipment traffic (common during construction), and the use of fill soil in the landscape. To prevent soil compaction, do not operate equipment (like a lawn mower) or park your car under your trees. Before beginning construction, consult with your contractor to create a plan for preserving your trees. You can also construct a barrier fence outside the trees’ drip lines to keep vehicles, construction materials, and foot traffic from compacting the soil. (The fence will also protect the branches and trunk from injury.)\nTrees particularly sensitive to soil compaction include sweetgum (\nLiquidambar\n), dogwood (\nCornus \nspp.), sassafras (\nSassafras \nspp.), tupelo (\nNyssa \nspp.), pine (\nPinus \nspp.), white oak (\nQuercus alba\n), laurel oak (\nQuercus laurifolia\n) and most nut trees, such as black walnut \n(Juglans nigra\n), hickory (\nCarya \nspp.), and pecan (\nCarya illinoinensis\n).\nEstablishing Trees\nIt’s important to make sure that the tree sits level in its hole and that the root ball ends up an inch or so above the surrounding ground once the hole is backfilled.\nNewly planted trees need regular irrigation to rapidly grow the roots necessary for proper establishment. For trees planted in spring or summer, water two to three times per week. After the first few months, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. Irrigations should be 2 to 3 gallons of water per inch trunk diameter. For example, a 2-inch tree should be watered 4 to 6 gallons each irrigation. Handwatering may be the only way you can follow this schedule and still comply with water restrictions.\nEstablish a structural pruning program early on to maintain one dominant trunk. Trees with one main trunk are stronger than trees with two or more trunks (co-dominant stems). Reducing the length of competing stems early in the tree’s life ensures that one trunk will dominate the others and become the main trunk, giving the tree strength and stability. This type of pruning is best performed on a regular basis for the first fifteen or twenty years after a tree is planted.\nAlso on Gardening Solutions\nTrees\nCommon Landscape Pitfalls: Tree Root Problems\nPlanting Palms\nPlanting and Establishing Shrubs\nPlanting Trees for Energy Savings\nPruning and Maintaining Trees\nMore from UF\/IFAS\nPlanting and Establishing Trees–Ask IFAS\nLearn Much More About Trees\nUF\/IFAS Landscape Plants — Dr. Edward Gilman\n(Don’t be put off by the vague name; this website is the most thorough source of research-based information on trees and shrubs found online.)","attrs_markdown":"![close search](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/themes\/ufl-main-uni\/img\/x.PNG)\n\n[Skip to main content](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/planting\/planting-and-establishing-trees\/#content)\n\n[![UF\/IFAS Extension Gardening Solutions](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/uf_ifas_white_gs.png)](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/)School Logo Link\n\n![search](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/themes\/ufl-main-uni\/img\/search_icon.png)\n\nMENU\n\n[UF\/IFAS Extension](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/) [University of Florida](https:\/\/www.ufl.edu\/)\n\n![search](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/themes\/ufl-main-uni\/img\/search_icon.png)\n\n[More Resources...](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/planting\/planting-and-establishing-trees\/)\n\n- [Infographics Collection](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/infographics-collection\/)\n- [Your local Extension office](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/find-your-local-office\/)\n- [Sign up for our newsletter](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/mastergardener\/resources\/newsletters\/)\n- [UF\/IFAS News](https:\/\/blogs.ifas.ufl.edu\/news\/)\n\n[UF\/IFAS Extension](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/)[University of Florida](https:\/\/www.ufl.edu\/)\n\nMENU\n\n- [Plants](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/plants\/)\n  - [Edible Plants](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/plants\/edibles\/)\n  - [Ornamental Plants](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/plants\/ornamentals\/)\n  - [Houseplants](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/plants\/houseplants\/)\n  - [Trees and Shrubs](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/plants\/trees-and-shrubs\/)\n- [Care](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/)\n  - [Planting](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/planting\/)\n  - [Pruning](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/pruning\/)\n  - [Irrigation](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/irrigation\/)\n  - [Fertilizer](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/fertilizer\/)\n  - [Pests and Diseases](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/pests-and-diseases\/)\n  - [Weather](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/weather\/)\n  - [Weeds and Invasive Plants](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/weeds-and-invasive-plants\/)\n  - [Tools and Equipment](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/tools-and-equipment\/)\n  - [Florida-Friendly Landscapes](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/florida-friendly\/)\n- [Design](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/design\/)\n  - [Types of Gardens](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/design\/types-of-gardens\/)\n  - [Outdoor Living](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/design\/outdoor-living\/)\n  - [Gardening with Wildlife](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/design\/gardening-with-wildlife\/)\n  - [Landscaping for Specific Sites](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/design\/landscaping-for-specific-sites\/)\n- [Lawns](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/lawns\/)\n  - [Fertilizer](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/fertilizer\/)\n  - [Irrigation](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/irrigation\/)\n  - [Turf Types](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/lawns\/turf-types\/)\n  - [Maintenance and Care](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/lawns\/maintenance-and-care\/)\n  - [Lawn Problems and Solutions](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/lawns\/problems-and-solutions\/)\n- [About Us](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/about-gardening-solutions\/about-this-site\/)\n  - [About Gardening Solutions](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/about-gardening-solutions\/)\n  - [About CLUE](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/about-gardening-solutions\/about-clue\/)\n\n***\n[More Resources...](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/planting\/planting-and-establishing-trees\/)\n\n- [Infographics Collection](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/infographics-collection\/)\n- [Your local Extension office](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/find-your-local-office\/)\n- [Sign up for our newsletter](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/mastergardener\/resources\/newsletters\/)\n- [UF\/IFAS News](https:\/\/blogs.ifas.ufl.edu\/news\/)\n\n1. [Care](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/ \"Care\")\n2. [Planting](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/care\/planting\/ \"Planting\")\n3. Planting and Establishing Trees\n\n## Planting and Establishing Trees\n![Three young children help place a small tree into its hold with the help of an adult.](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/children_help_tree_planting400x268.jpg)\n\nHow you plant and initially care for a tree has a significant impact on its health. When you plant a tree, keep the following in mind:\n\n- **Choose high-quality trees with good structure.** Like any good investment, spending a little extra cash up front on a tree of superior quality will likely pay off in the long run.\n- **Think ahead.** [Don’t plant trees that grow large beneath power lines](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/care\/planting\/trees-and-powerlines\/), close to your house, or in other potentially hazardous sites. If your home features solar panels, be sure any trees you plant will not block them.\n- **Give trees adequate rooting space, with no obstructions.** Sturdy trees have straight main roots. Curbs, foundations, and sidewalks all act as barriers to roots, making them turn and twist. A tree with twisted roots will not be as stable as one with strong, straight roots.\n- **If you can, plant trees in groups.** Trees planted in groups are much better protected in high winds. In addition, trees planted in combination with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers form effective windbreaks and wildlife habitat.\n- **Placement matters.** Position trees and shrubs strategically to naturally cool or heat your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south, east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer and allow warming in winter. Tree shade can reduce air conditioning costs significantly—an air-conditioning system’s outdoor compressor\/condenser unit uses less energy when it is shaded from direct sun during the day. Just be careful not to block the unit’s airflow with low branches.\n### How to Plant Trees\nBegin your landscape renovation by putting walkways, irrigation systems or patios into place first; then plant trees. Because trees are a more permanent addition to the landscape, careful site selection and proper planting techniques are essential.\n\n![Measuring the root ball of a tree to be planted and then measuring the hole it goes into.](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/plant_trees_step_two300x409.jpg)\n\n- **Look up.** Find a new planting site if there is a wire, security light or building nearby that could interfere with the tree as it grows.\n- **Dig a wide, shallow hole.** Dig a hole that is two to three times the width of the root ball (the roots and soil attached to the plant when you remove it from its pot). You can also dig a hole that is only slightly larger than the root ball and simply loosen the soil around it with a shovel.\n- **Find the point where the uppermost root emerges from the trunk.** This point is called the trunk flare, root flare or root crown and should be even with, or slightly above, the soil surface. Remove any roots that circle close to the trunk.\n- **Slide the tree into the planting hole and position it carefully.** Place the trunk flare slightly above the surface of the landscape soil and begin to fill the hole with the excavated soil, making sure the tree is straight as you go. As you add the soil, slice a shovel down into it twenty to thirty times, all around the tree. Compress the soil with your foot to stabilize the tree.\n- **Shave off the outer inch or so of the root ball with a sharp shovel.** This removes roots that could strangle the trunk later as it grows in diameter. It also encourages roots to quickly grow into the landscape soil and makes the tree sturdier in winds.\n- **Add plenty of water to the root ball and planting hole.** Make sure the root ball and surrounding soil are thoroughly moistened. Add more soil around the root ball if needed.\n- **Cover the backfill soil with mulch.** Apply mulch to a minimum 8-foot diameter circle 3 inches deep around the tree, with a gap of 12 inches between the trunk and the mulch.\n- **Stake the tree, if necessary.** Staking holds the root ball firmly in the soil. Top-heavy trees might require staking, especially if they’re located in a windy location. Stakes should be removed within one year of planting.\n- **Water trees frequently so roots fully establish.** Light, frequent irrigation fosters the quickest establishment for trees (see “Establishing Trees” below for more information). Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, water weekly until plants are fully established.\n### Protecting Tree Roots\nThe health of a tree’s roots is one of the biggest factors in its success. Most tree roots are located in the top two feet of soil, where oxygen is most available. Digging near trees can cut roots, so make sure utilities are placed around or under them.\n\nCompacted soil is also a problem for tree roots. It contains little oxygen, which tree roots need to survive and grow. Soil compaction is caused by mowing under the tree canopy, heavy equipment traffic (common during construction), and the use of fill soil in the landscape. To prevent soil compaction, do not operate equipment (like a lawn mower) or park your car under your trees. Before beginning construction, consult with your contractor to create a plan for preserving your trees. You can also construct a barrier fence outside the trees’ drip lines to keep vehicles, construction materials, and foot traffic from compacting the soil. (The fence will also protect the branches and trunk from injury.)\n\nTrees particularly sensitive to soil compaction include sweetgum (*Liquidambar*), dogwood (*Cornus* spp.), sassafras (*Sassafras* spp.), tupelo (*Nyssa* spp.), pine (*Pinus* spp.), white oak (*Quercus alba*), laurel oak (*Quercus laurifolia*) and most nut trees, such as black walnut *(Juglans nigra*), hickory (*Carya* spp.), and pecan (*Carya illinoinensis*).\n\n### Establishing Trees\n![Woman planting a tree](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-232.png)\n\nIt’s important to make sure that the tree sits level in its hole and that the root ball ends up an inch or so above the surrounding ground once the hole is backfilled.\n\nNewly planted trees need regular irrigation to rapidly grow the roots necessary for proper establishment. For trees planted in spring or summer, water two to three times per week. After the first few months, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. Irrigations should be 2 to 3 gallons of water per inch trunk diameter. For example, a 2-inch tree should be watered 4 to 6 gallons each irrigation. Handwatering may be the only way you can follow this schedule and still comply with water restrictions.\n\nEstablish a structural pruning program early on to maintain one dominant trunk. Trees with one main trunk are stronger than trees with two or more trunks (co-dominant stems). Reducing the length of competing stems early in the tree’s life ensures that one trunk will dominate the others and become the main trunk, giving the tree strength and stability. This type of pruning is best performed on a regular basis for the first fifteen or twenty years after a tree is planted.\n\n#### Also on Gardening Solutions\n- [Trees](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/plants\/trees-and-more\/trees\/)\n- [Common Landscape Pitfalls: Tree Root Problems](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/plants\/trees-and-more\/trees\/tree-root-problems\/)\n- [Planting Palms](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/care\/planting\/planting-palms\/)\n- [Planting and Establishing Shrubs](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/care\/planting\/planting-shrubs\/)\n- [Planting Trees for Energy Savings](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/design\/landscaping-for-specific-sites\/planting-trees-for-energy-savings\/)\n- [Pruning and Maintaining Trees](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/care\/pruning\/pruning-and-maintaining-trees\/)\n#### More from UF\/IFAS\n- [Planting and Establishing Trees–Ask IFAS](https:\/\/ask.ifas.ufl.edu\/publication\/EP314)\n#### Learn Much More About Trees\n- [UF\/IFAS Landscape Plants — Dr. Edward Gilman](https:\/\/hort.ifas.ufl.edu\/woody\/)  \n  *(Don’t be put off by the vague name; this website is the most thorough source of research-based information on trees and shrubs found online.)*\n\nWas this page helpful? [Yes 😀](https:\/\/forms.office.com\/Pages\/ResponsePage.aspx?id=-KBNDTFKdk2s5gpiMx4bhH6vH0lWO5NAhkabd9tj7LhUOFI3TkpUTUlGSUowSTc3U0FVNjIwQUVNNSQlQCN0PWcu&r53d580373f41467faa50e14698ec415b=https%3A%2F%2Fgardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu%2Fcare%2Fplanting%2Fplanting-and-establishing-trees%2F&rb0fd652373b44bdea159f6854746faf5=%22Yes%22) [No ☹️](https:\/\/forms.office.com\/Pages\/ResponsePage.aspx?id=-KBNDTFKdk2s5gpiMx4bhH6vH0lWO5NAhkabd9tj7LhUOFI3TkpUTUlGSUowSTc3U0FVNjIwQUVNNSQlQCN0PWcu&r53d580373f41467faa50e14698ec415b=https%3A%2F%2Fgardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu%2Fcare%2Fplanting%2Fplanting-and-establishing-trees%2F&rb0fd652373b44bdea159f6854746faf5=%22No%22)\n\n[![The University of Florida](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/logo.svg)](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/)\n\n[Facebook Icon](https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/florida.mastergardeners)\n\n[Twitter Icon](https:\/\/x.com\/floridamgs)\n\n[Instagram Icon](https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/florida.master.gardeners\/)\n\n[Youtube Icon](https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/@UFGARDENING)\n\n#### Contact\n\n**[UF\/IFAS Center for Land Use Efficiency](https:\/\/clue.ifas.ufl.edu\/)**  \n2140 NE Waldo Road  \nBldg. 1603 East Campus  \nPO Box 110675  \nGainesville, FL 32609  \n[Site Feedback](mailto:jsykes@ufl.edu)\n\n#### **Our Programs**\n\n- [The Center for Land Use Efficiency](https:\/\/clue.ifas.ufl.edu\/)\n- [Agricultural BMP Program](https:\/\/bmp.ifas.ufl.edu\/)\n- [Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Program](https:\/\/ffl.ifas.ufl.edu\/)\n- [The Florida Master Gardener Volunteer Program](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/mastergardener\/)\n- [The Neighborhood Gardener newsletter](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/mastergardener\/resources\/newsletters\/)\n\n#### **UF\/IFAS Extension**\n\n- [Agriculture](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/agriculture\/)\n- [Natural Resources](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/natural-resources\/)\n- [Lawn & Garden](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/lawn-and-garden\/)\n- [Family Resources](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/family-resources\/)\n- [4-H Youth Development](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/4-h-youth-development\/)\n\n#### Web Policy\n\n- [Accessible UF](https:\/\/accessibility.ufl.edu\/)\n- [IFAS EEO Statement](https:\/\/ics.ifas.ufl.edu\/uf-ifas-legal-statements\/)\n- [IFAS Web Policy](https:\/\/ics.ifas.ufl.edu\/our-services\/web-services\/)\n- [Privacy UF](https:\/\/privacy.ufl.edu\/privacy-policies-and-procedures\/onlineinternet-privacy-statement\/)\n- [Analytics (Google Privacy)](https:\/\/policies.google.com\/privacy)\n\n© 2026. [University of Florida](https:\/\/www.ufl.edu\/) [IFAS Extension](https:\/\/sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu\/)\n\nNotifications","attrs_readable_markdown":"![Three young children help place a small tree into its hold with the help of an adult.](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/children_help_tree_planting400x268.jpg)\n\nHow you plant and initially care for a tree has a significant impact on its health. When you plant a tree, keep the following in mind:\n\n- **Choose high-quality trees with good structure.** Like any good investment, spending a little extra cash up front on a tree of superior quality will likely pay off in the long run.\n- **Think ahead.** [Don’t plant trees that grow large beneath power lines](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/care\/planting\/trees-and-powerlines\/), close to your house, or in other potentially hazardous sites. If your home features solar panels, be sure any trees you plant will not block them.\n- **Give trees adequate rooting space, with no obstructions.** Sturdy trees have straight main roots. Curbs, foundations, and sidewalks all act as barriers to roots, making them turn and twist. A tree with twisted roots will not be as stable as one with strong, straight roots.\n- **If you can, plant trees in groups.** Trees planted in groups are much better protected in high winds. In addition, trees planted in combination with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers form effective windbreaks and wildlife habitat.\n- **Placement matters.** Position trees and shrubs strategically to naturally cool or heat your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south, east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer and allow warming in winter. Tree shade can reduce air conditioning costs significantly—an air-conditioning system’s outdoor compressor\/condenser unit uses less energy when it is shaded from direct sun during the day. Just be careful not to block the unit’s airflow with low branches.\n### How to Plant Trees\nBegin your landscape renovation by putting walkways, irrigation systems or patios into place first; then plant trees. Because trees are a more permanent addition to the landscape, careful site selection and proper planting techniques are essential.\n\n![Measuring the root ball of a tree to be planted and then measuring the hole it goes into.](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/plant_trees_step_two300x409.jpg)\n\n- **Look up.** Find a new planting site if there is a wire, security light or building nearby that could interfere with the tree as it grows.\n- **Dig a wide, shallow hole.** Dig a hole that is two to three times the width of the root ball (the roots and soil attached to the plant when you remove it from its pot). You can also dig a hole that is only slightly larger than the root ball and simply loosen the soil around it with a shovel.\n- **Find the point where the uppermost root emerges from the trunk.** This point is called the trunk flare, root flare or root crown and should be even with, or slightly above, the soil surface. Remove any roots that circle close to the trunk.\n- **Slide the tree into the planting hole and position it carefully.** Place the trunk flare slightly above the surface of the landscape soil and begin to fill the hole with the excavated soil, making sure the tree is straight as you go. As you add the soil, slice a shovel down into it twenty to thirty times, all around the tree. Compress the soil with your foot to stabilize the tree.\n- **Shave off the outer inch or so of the root ball with a sharp shovel.** This removes roots that could strangle the trunk later as it grows in diameter. It also encourages roots to quickly grow into the landscape soil and makes the tree sturdier in winds.\n- **Add plenty of water to the root ball and planting hole.** Make sure the root ball and surrounding soil are thoroughly moistened. Add more soil around the root ball if needed.\n- **Cover the backfill soil with mulch.** Apply mulch to a minimum 8-foot diameter circle 3 inches deep around the tree, with a gap of 12 inches between the trunk and the mulch.\n- **Stake the tree, if necessary.** Staking holds the root ball firmly in the soil. Top-heavy trees might require staking, especially if they’re located in a windy location. Stakes should be removed within one year of planting.\n- **Water trees frequently so roots fully establish.** Light, frequent irrigation fosters the quickest establishment for trees (see “Establishing Trees” below for more information). Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, water weekly until plants are fully established.\n### Protecting Tree Roots\nThe health of a tree’s roots is one of the biggest factors in its success. Most tree roots are located in the top two feet of soil, where oxygen is most available. Digging near trees can cut roots, so make sure utilities are placed around or under them.\n\nCompacted soil is also a problem for tree roots. It contains little oxygen, which tree roots need to survive and grow. Soil compaction is caused by mowing under the tree canopy, heavy equipment traffic (common during construction), and the use of fill soil in the landscape. To prevent soil compaction, do not operate equipment (like a lawn mower) or park your car under your trees. Before beginning construction, consult with your contractor to create a plan for preserving your trees. You can also construct a barrier fence outside the trees’ drip lines to keep vehicles, construction materials, and foot traffic from compacting the soil. (The fence will also protect the branches and trunk from injury.)\n\nTrees particularly sensitive to soil compaction include sweetgum (*Liquidambar*), dogwood (*Cornus* spp.), sassafras (*Sassafras* spp.), tupelo (*Nyssa* spp.), pine (*Pinus* spp.), white oak (*Quercus alba*), laurel oak (*Quercus laurifolia*) and most nut trees, such as black walnut *(Juglans nigra*), hickory (*Carya* spp.), and pecan (*Carya illinoinensis*).\n\n### Establishing Trees\n![Woman planting a tree](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/image-232.png)\n\nIt’s important to make sure that the tree sits level in its hole and that the root ball ends up an inch or so above the surrounding ground once the hole is backfilled.\n\nNewly planted trees need regular irrigation to rapidly grow the roots necessary for proper establishment. For trees planted in spring or summer, water two to three times per week. After the first few months, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. Irrigations should be 2 to 3 gallons of water per inch trunk diameter. For example, a 2-inch tree should be watered 4 to 6 gallons each irrigation. Handwatering may be the only way you can follow this schedule and still comply with water restrictions.\n\nEstablish a structural pruning program early on to maintain one dominant trunk. Trees with one main trunk are stronger than trees with two or more trunks (co-dominant stems). Reducing the length of competing stems early in the tree’s life ensures that one trunk will dominate the others and become the main trunk, giving the tree strength and stability. This type of pruning is best performed on a regular basis for the first fifteen or twenty years after a tree is planted.\n\n#### Also on Gardening Solutions\n- [Trees](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/plants\/trees-and-more\/trees\/)\n- [Common Landscape Pitfalls: Tree Root Problems](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/plants\/trees-and-more\/trees\/tree-root-problems\/)\n- [Planting Palms](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/care\/planting\/planting-palms\/)\n- [Planting and Establishing Shrubs](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/care\/planting\/planting-shrubs\/)\n- [Planting Trees for Energy Savings](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/design\/landscaping-for-specific-sites\/planting-trees-for-energy-savings\/)\n- [Pruning and Maintaining Trees](https:\/\/gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu\/home\/care\/pruning\/pruning-and-maintaining-trees\/)\n#### More from UF\/IFAS\n- [Planting and Establishing Trees–Ask IFAS](https:\/\/ask.ifas.ufl.edu\/publication\/EP314)\n#### Learn Much More About Trees\n- [UF\/IFAS Landscape Plants — Dr. Edward Gilman](https:\/\/hort.ifas.ufl.edu\/woody\/)  \n  *(Don’t be put off by the vague name; this website is the most thorough source of research-based information on trees and shrubs found online.)*","meta_canonical":null,"ml_categories_json":"{\"\/Home_and_Garden\":999,\"\/Home_and_Garden\/Patio,_Lawn_and_Garden\":996,\"\/Home_and_Garden\/Patio,_Lawn_and_Garden\/Gardening\":943}","ml_types_json":"{\"\/Article\":996,\"\/Article\/How_to\":810}","ml_intent_types_json":"{\"Informational\":998}","meta_language":"en-us","attrs_author":null,"attrs_publish_time":0,"attrs_original_publish_time":1719353748,"attrs_is_republished":0,"attrs_nr_words":"1398","attrs_boilerpipe_nr_words":"1173","body_ext_links_number":7,"body_int_links_number":66,"meta_nofollow":0,"meta_noarchive":0,"props_was_rendered":1,"src_redirect":"","download_time_msec":196,"download_ttfb_msec":150,"download_size":31806}

3. Robots.txt Check

Query:

Response:

4. Spam/Ban Check

Query:

Response:

5. Seen Status Check

ℹ️ Skipped - page is already crawled

📄

INDEXABLE

✅

CRAWLED

1 month ago

🤖

ROBOTS ALLOWED

Page Info Filters

Filter	Status	Condition	Details
HTTP status	PASS	`download_http_code = 200`	HTTP 200
Age cutoff	PASS	`download_stamp > now() - 6 MONTH`	1.2 months ago
History drop	PASS	`isNull(history_drop_reason)`	No drop reason
Spam/ban	PASS	`fh_dont_index != 1 AND ml_spam_score = 0`	ml_spam_score=0
Canonical	PASS	`meta_canonical IS NULL OR = '' OR = src_unparsed`	Not set

Page Details

Property

Value

URL

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/planting/planting-and-establishing-trees/

Last Crawled

2026-03-24 12:34:25 (1 month ago)

First Indexed

2024-06-25 22:15:48 (1 year ago)

HTTP Status Code

200

Content

Meta Title

Planting and Establishing Trees – Gardening Solutions

Meta Description

null

Meta Canonical

null

Boilerpipe Text

How you plant and initially care for a tree has a significant impact on its health. When you plant a tree, keep the following in mind: Choose high-quality trees with good structure. Like any good investment, spending a little extra cash up front on a tree of superior quality will likely pay off in the long run. Think ahead. Don’t plant trees that grow large beneath power lines , close to your house, or in other potentially hazardous sites. If your home features solar panels, be sure any trees you plant will not block them. Give trees adequate rooting space, with no obstructions. Sturdy trees have straight main roots. Curbs, foundations, and sidewalks all act as barriers to roots, making them turn and twist. A tree with twisted roots will not be as stable as one with strong, straight roots. If you can, plant trees in groups. Trees planted in groups are much better protected in high winds. In addition, trees planted in combination with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers form effective windbreaks and wildlife habitat. Placement matters. Position trees and shrubs strategically to naturally cool or heat your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south, east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer and allow warming in winter. Tree shade can reduce air conditioning costs significantly—an air-conditioning system’s outdoor compressor/condenser unit uses less energy when it is shaded from direct sun during the day. Just be careful not to block the unit’s airflow with low branches. How to Plant Trees Begin your landscape renovation by putting walkways, irrigation systems or patios into place first; then plant trees. Because trees are a more permanent addition to the landscape, careful site selection and proper planting techniques are essential. Look up. Find a new planting site if there is a wire, security light or building nearby that could interfere with the tree as it grows. Dig a wide, shallow hole. Dig a hole that is two to three times the width of the root ball (the roots and soil attached to the plant when you remove it from its pot). You can also dig a hole that is only slightly larger than the root ball and simply loosen the soil around it with a shovel. Find the point where the uppermost root emerges from the trunk. This point is called the trunk flare, root flare or root crown and should be even with, or slightly above, the soil surface. Remove any roots that circle close to the trunk. Slide the tree into the planting hole and position it carefully. Place the trunk flare slightly above the surface of the landscape soil and begin to fill the hole with the excavated soil, making sure the tree is straight as you go. As you add the soil, slice a shovel down into it twenty to thirty times, all around the tree. Compress the soil with your foot to stabilize the tree. Shave off the outer inch or so of the root ball with a sharp shovel. This removes roots that could strangle the trunk later as it grows in diameter. It also encourages roots to quickly grow into the landscape soil and makes the tree sturdier in winds. Add plenty of water to the root ball and planting hole. Make sure the root ball and surrounding soil are thoroughly moistened. Add more soil around the root ball if needed. Cover the backfill soil with mulch. Apply mulch to a minimum 8-foot diameter circle 3 inches deep around the tree, with a gap of 12 inches between the trunk and the mulch. Stake the tree, if necessary. Staking holds the root ball firmly in the soil. Top-heavy trees might require staking, especially if they’re located in a windy location. Stakes should be removed within one year of planting. Water trees frequently so roots fully establish. Light, frequent irrigation fosters the quickest establishment for trees (see “Establishing Trees” below for more information). Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, water weekly until plants are fully established. Protecting Tree Roots The health of a tree’s roots is one of the biggest factors in its success. Most tree roots are located in the top two feet of soil, where oxygen is most available. Digging near trees can cut roots, so make sure utilities are placed around or under them. Compacted soil is also a problem for tree roots. It contains little oxygen, which tree roots need to survive and grow. Soil compaction is caused by mowing under the tree canopy, heavy equipment traffic (common during construction), and the use of fill soil in the landscape. To prevent soil compaction, do not operate equipment (like a lawn mower) or park your car under your trees. Before beginning construction, consult with your contractor to create a plan for preserving your trees. You can also construct a barrier fence outside the trees’ drip lines to keep vehicles, construction materials, and foot traffic from compacting the soil. (The fence will also protect the branches and trunk from injury.) Trees particularly sensitive to soil compaction include sweetgum ( Liquidambar ), dogwood ( Cornus spp.), sassafras ( Sassafras spp.), tupelo ( Nyssa spp.), pine ( Pinus spp.), white oak ( Quercus alba ), laurel oak ( Quercus laurifolia ) and most nut trees, such as black walnut (Juglans nigra ), hickory ( Carya spp.), and pecan ( Carya illinoinensis ). Establishing Trees It’s important to make sure that the tree sits level in its hole and that the root ball ends up an inch or so above the surrounding ground once the hole is backfilled. Newly planted trees need regular irrigation to rapidly grow the roots necessary for proper establishment. For trees planted in spring or summer, water two to three times per week. After the first few months, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. Irrigations should be 2 to 3 gallons of water per inch trunk diameter. For example, a 2-inch tree should be watered 4 to 6 gallons each irrigation. Handwatering may be the only way you can follow this schedule and still comply with water restrictions. Establish a structural pruning program early on to maintain one dominant trunk. Trees with one main trunk are stronger than trees with two or more trunks (co-dominant stems). Reducing the length of competing stems early in the tree’s life ensures that one trunk will dominate the others and become the main trunk, giving the tree strength and stability. This type of pruning is best performed on a regular basis for the first fifteen or twenty years after a tree is planted. Also on Gardening Solutions Trees Common Landscape Pitfalls: Tree Root Problems Planting Palms Planting and Establishing Shrubs Planting Trees for Energy Savings Pruning and Maintaining Trees More from UF/IFAS Planting and Establishing Trees–Ask IFAS Learn Much More About Trees UF/IFAS Landscape Plants — Dr. Edward Gilman (Don’t be put off by the vague name; this website is the most thorough source of research-based information on trees and shrubs found online.)

Markdown

![close search](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/themes/ufl-main-uni/img/x.PNG) [Skip to main content](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/planting/planting-and-establishing-trees/#content) [![UF/IFAS Extension Gardening Solutions](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/uf_ifas_white_gs.png)](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/)School Logo Link ![search](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/themes/ufl-main-uni/img/search_icon.png) MENU [UF/IFAS Extension](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/) [University of Florida](https://www.ufl.edu/) ![search](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/themes/ufl-main-uni/img/search_icon.png) [More Resources...](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/planting/planting-and-establishing-trees/) - [Infographics Collection](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/infographics-collection/) - [Your local Extension office](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/) - [Sign up for our newsletter](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/resources/newsletters/) - [UF/IFAS News](https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/news/) [UF/IFAS Extension](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/)[University of Florida](https://www.ufl.edu/) MENU - [Plants](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/) - [Edible Plants](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/) - [Ornamental Plants](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/) - [Houseplants](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/) - [Trees and Shrubs](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/) - [Care](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/) - [Planting](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/planting/) - [Pruning](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/pruning/) - [Irrigation](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/irrigation/) - [Fertilizer](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/fertilizer/) - [Pests and Diseases](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/pests-and-diseases/) - [Weather](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/weather/) - [Weeds and Invasive Plants](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/weeds-and-invasive-plants/) - [Tools and Equipment](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/tools-and-equipment/) - [Florida-Friendly Landscapes](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/florida-friendly/) - [Design](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/) - [Types of Gardens](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/) - [Outdoor Living](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/outdoor-living/) - [Gardening with Wildlife](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/gardening-with-wildlife/) - [Landscaping for Specific Sites](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/landscaping-for-specific-sites/) - [Lawns](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/) - [Fertilizer](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/fertilizer/) - [Irrigation](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/irrigation/) - [Turf Types](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/turf-types/) - [Maintenance and Care](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/maintenance-and-care/) - [Lawn Problems and Solutions](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/problems-and-solutions/) - [About Us](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/about-gardening-solutions/about-this-site/) - [About Gardening Solutions](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/about-gardening-solutions/) - [About CLUE](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/about-gardening-solutions/about-clue/) *** [More Resources...](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/planting/planting-and-establishing-trees/) - [Infographics Collection](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/infographics-collection/) - [Your local Extension office](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/) - [Sign up for our newsletter](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/resources/newsletters/) - [UF/IFAS News](https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/news/) 1. [Care](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/ "Care") 2. [Planting](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/planting/ "Planting") 3. Planting and Establishing Trees ## Planting and Establishing Trees ![Three young children help place a small tree into its hold with the help of an adult.](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/children_help_tree_planting400x268.jpg) How you plant and initially care for a tree has a significant impact on its health. When you plant a tree, keep the following in mind: - **Choose high-quality trees with good structure.** Like any good investment, spending a little extra cash up front on a tree of superior quality will likely pay off in the long run. - **Think ahead.** [Don’t plant trees that grow large beneath power lines](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/care/planting/trees-and-powerlines/), close to your house, or in other potentially hazardous sites. If your home features solar panels, be sure any trees you plant will not block them. - **Give trees adequate rooting space, with no obstructions.** Sturdy trees have straight main roots. Curbs, foundations, and sidewalks all act as barriers to roots, making them turn and twist. A tree with twisted roots will not be as stable as one with strong, straight roots. - **If you can, plant trees in groups.** Trees planted in groups are much better protected in high winds. In addition, trees planted in combination with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers form effective windbreaks and wildlife habitat. - **Placement matters.** Position trees and shrubs strategically to naturally cool or heat your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south, east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer and allow warming in winter. Tree shade can reduce air conditioning costs significantly—an air-conditioning system’s outdoor compressor/condenser unit uses less energy when it is shaded from direct sun during the day. Just be careful not to block the unit’s airflow with low branches. ### How to Plant Trees Begin your landscape renovation by putting walkways, irrigation systems or patios into place first; then plant trees. Because trees are a more permanent addition to the landscape, careful site selection and proper planting techniques are essential. ![Measuring the root ball of a tree to be planted and then measuring the hole it goes into.](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/plant_trees_step_two300x409.jpg) - **Look up.** Find a new planting site if there is a wire, security light or building nearby that could interfere with the tree as it grows. - **Dig a wide, shallow hole.** Dig a hole that is two to three times the width of the root ball (the roots and soil attached to the plant when you remove it from its pot). You can also dig a hole that is only slightly larger than the root ball and simply loosen the soil around it with a shovel. - **Find the point where the uppermost root emerges from the trunk.** This point is called the trunk flare, root flare or root crown and should be even with, or slightly above, the soil surface. Remove any roots that circle close to the trunk. - **Slide the tree into the planting hole and position it carefully.** Place the trunk flare slightly above the surface of the landscape soil and begin to fill the hole with the excavated soil, making sure the tree is straight as you go. As you add the soil, slice a shovel down into it twenty to thirty times, all around the tree. Compress the soil with your foot to stabilize the tree. - **Shave off the outer inch or so of the root ball with a sharp shovel.** This removes roots that could strangle the trunk later as it grows in diameter. It also encourages roots to quickly grow into the landscape soil and makes the tree sturdier in winds. - **Add plenty of water to the root ball and planting hole.** Make sure the root ball and surrounding soil are thoroughly moistened. Add more soil around the root ball if needed. - **Cover the backfill soil with mulch.** Apply mulch to a minimum 8-foot diameter circle 3 inches deep around the tree, with a gap of 12 inches between the trunk and the mulch. - **Stake the tree, if necessary.** Staking holds the root ball firmly in the soil. Top-heavy trees might require staking, especially if they’re located in a windy location. Stakes should be removed within one year of planting. - **Water trees frequently so roots fully establish.** Light, frequent irrigation fosters the quickest establishment for trees (see “Establishing Trees” below for more information). Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, water weekly until plants are fully established. ### Protecting Tree Roots The health of a tree’s roots is one of the biggest factors in its success. Most tree roots are located in the top two feet of soil, where oxygen is most available. Digging near trees can cut roots, so make sure utilities are placed around or under them. Compacted soil is also a problem for tree roots. It contains little oxygen, which tree roots need to survive and grow. Soil compaction is caused by mowing under the tree canopy, heavy equipment traffic (common during construction), and the use of fill soil in the landscape. To prevent soil compaction, do not operate equipment (like a lawn mower) or park your car under your trees. Before beginning construction, consult with your contractor to create a plan for preserving your trees. You can also construct a barrier fence outside the trees’ drip lines to keep vehicles, construction materials, and foot traffic from compacting the soil. (The fence will also protect the branches and trunk from injury.) Trees particularly sensitive to soil compaction include sweetgum (*Liquidambar*), dogwood (*Cornus* spp.), sassafras (*Sassafras* spp.), tupelo (*Nyssa* spp.), pine (*Pinus* spp.), white oak (*Quercus alba*), laurel oak (*Quercus laurifolia*) and most nut trees, such as black walnut *(Juglans nigra*), hickory (*Carya* spp.), and pecan (*Carya illinoinensis*). ### Establishing Trees ![Woman planting a tree](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-232.png) It’s important to make sure that the tree sits level in its hole and that the root ball ends up an inch or so above the surrounding ground once the hole is backfilled. Newly planted trees need regular irrigation to rapidly grow the roots necessary for proper establishment. For trees planted in spring or summer, water two to three times per week. After the first few months, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. Irrigations should be 2 to 3 gallons of water per inch trunk diameter. For example, a 2-inch tree should be watered 4 to 6 gallons each irrigation. Handwatering may be the only way you can follow this schedule and still comply with water restrictions. Establish a structural pruning program early on to maintain one dominant trunk. Trees with one main trunk are stronger than trees with two or more trunks (co-dominant stems). Reducing the length of competing stems early in the tree’s life ensures that one trunk will dominate the others and become the main trunk, giving the tree strength and stability. This type of pruning is best performed on a regular basis for the first fifteen or twenty years after a tree is planted. #### Also on Gardening Solutions - [Trees](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/plants/trees-and-more/trees/) - [Common Landscape Pitfalls: Tree Root Problems](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/plants/trees-and-more/trees/tree-root-problems/) - [Planting Palms](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/care/planting/planting-palms/) - [Planting and Establishing Shrubs](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/care/planting/planting-shrubs/) - [Planting Trees for Energy Savings](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/design/landscaping-for-specific-sites/planting-trees-for-energy-savings/) - [Pruning and Maintaining Trees](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/care/pruning/pruning-and-maintaining-trees/) #### More from UF/IFAS - [Planting and Establishing Trees–Ask IFAS](https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP314) #### Learn Much More About Trees - [UF/IFAS Landscape Plants — Dr. Edward Gilman](https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/) *(Don’t be put off by the vague name; this website is the most thorough source of research-based information on trees and shrubs found online.)* Was this page helpful? [Yes 😀](https://forms.office.com/Pages/ResponsePage.aspx?id=-KBNDTFKdk2s5gpiMx4bhH6vH0lWO5NAhkabd9tj7LhUOFI3TkpUTUlGSUowSTc3U0FVNjIwQUVNNSQlQCN0PWcu&r53d580373f41467faa50e14698ec415b=https%3A%2F%2Fgardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu%2Fcare%2Fplanting%2Fplanting-and-establishing-trees%2F&rb0fd652373b44bdea159f6854746faf5=%22Yes%22) [No ☹️](https://forms.office.com/Pages/ResponsePage.aspx?id=-KBNDTFKdk2s5gpiMx4bhH6vH0lWO5NAhkabd9tj7LhUOFI3TkpUTUlGSUowSTc3U0FVNjIwQUVNNSQlQCN0PWcu&r53d580373f41467faa50e14698ec415b=https%3A%2F%2Fgardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu%2Fcare%2Fplanting%2Fplanting-and-establishing-trees%2F&rb0fd652373b44bdea159f6854746faf5=%22No%22) [![The University of Florida](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/logo.svg)](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/) [Facebook Icon](https://www.facebook.com/florida.mastergardeners) [Twitter Icon](https://x.com/floridamgs) [Instagram Icon](https://www.instagram.com/florida.master.gardeners/) [Youtube Icon](https://www.youtube.com/@UFGARDENING) #### Contact **[UF/IFAS Center for Land Use Efficiency](https://clue.ifas.ufl.edu/)** 2140 NE Waldo Road Bldg. 1603 East Campus PO Box 110675 Gainesville, FL 32609 [Site Feedback](mailto:jsykes@ufl.edu) #### **Our Programs** - [The Center for Land Use Efficiency](https://clue.ifas.ufl.edu/) - [Agricultural BMP Program](https://bmp.ifas.ufl.edu/) - [Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Program](https://ffl.ifas.ufl.edu/) - [The Florida Master Gardener Volunteer Program](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/) - [The Neighborhood Gardener newsletter](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/resources/newsletters/) #### **UF/IFAS Extension** - [Agriculture](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/agriculture/) - [Natural Resources](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/natural-resources/) - [Lawn & Garden](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/) - [Family Resources](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/family-resources/) - [4-H Youth Development](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/4-h-youth-development/) #### Web Policy - [Accessible UF](https://accessibility.ufl.edu/) - [IFAS EEO Statement](https://ics.ifas.ufl.edu/uf-ifas-legal-statements/) - [IFAS Web Policy](https://ics.ifas.ufl.edu/our-services/web-services/) - [Privacy UF](https://privacy.ufl.edu/privacy-policies-and-procedures/onlineinternet-privacy-statement/) - [Analytics (Google Privacy)](https://policies.google.com/privacy) © 2026. [University of Florida](https://www.ufl.edu/) [IFAS Extension](https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/) Notifications

Readable Markdown

![Three young children help place a small tree into its hold with the help of an adult.](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/children_help_tree_planting400x268.jpg) How you plant and initially care for a tree has a significant impact on its health. When you plant a tree, keep the following in mind: - **Choose high-quality trees with good structure.** Like any good investment, spending a little extra cash up front on a tree of superior quality will likely pay off in the long run. - **Think ahead.** [Don’t plant trees that grow large beneath power lines](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/care/planting/trees-and-powerlines/), close to your house, or in other potentially hazardous sites. If your home features solar panels, be sure any trees you plant will not block them. - **Give trees adequate rooting space, with no obstructions.** Sturdy trees have straight main roots. Curbs, foundations, and sidewalks all act as barriers to roots, making them turn and twist. A tree with twisted roots will not be as stable as one with strong, straight roots. - **If you can, plant trees in groups.** Trees planted in groups are much better protected in high winds. In addition, trees planted in combination with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers form effective windbreaks and wildlife habitat. - **Placement matters.** Position trees and shrubs strategically to naturally cool or heat your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south, east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer and allow warming in winter. Tree shade can reduce air conditioning costs significantly—an air-conditioning system’s outdoor compressor/condenser unit uses less energy when it is shaded from direct sun during the day. Just be careful not to block the unit’s airflow with low branches. ### How to Plant Trees Begin your landscape renovation by putting walkways, irrigation systems or patios into place first; then plant trees. Because trees are a more permanent addition to the landscape, careful site selection and proper planting techniques are essential. ![Measuring the root ball of a tree to be planted and then measuring the hole it goes into.](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/plant_trees_step_two300x409.jpg) - **Look up.** Find a new planting site if there is a wire, security light or building nearby that could interfere with the tree as it grows. - **Dig a wide, shallow hole.** Dig a hole that is two to three times the width of the root ball (the roots and soil attached to the plant when you remove it from its pot). You can also dig a hole that is only slightly larger than the root ball and simply loosen the soil around it with a shovel. - **Find the point where the uppermost root emerges from the trunk.** This point is called the trunk flare, root flare or root crown and should be even with, or slightly above, the soil surface. Remove any roots that circle close to the trunk. - **Slide the tree into the planting hole and position it carefully.** Place the trunk flare slightly above the surface of the landscape soil and begin to fill the hole with the excavated soil, making sure the tree is straight as you go. As you add the soil, slice a shovel down into it twenty to thirty times, all around the tree. Compress the soil with your foot to stabilize the tree. - **Shave off the outer inch or so of the root ball with a sharp shovel.** This removes roots that could strangle the trunk later as it grows in diameter. It also encourages roots to quickly grow into the landscape soil and makes the tree sturdier in winds. - **Add plenty of water to the root ball and planting hole.** Make sure the root ball and surrounding soil are thoroughly moistened. Add more soil around the root ball if needed. - **Cover the backfill soil with mulch.** Apply mulch to a minimum 8-foot diameter circle 3 inches deep around the tree, with a gap of 12 inches between the trunk and the mulch. - **Stake the tree, if necessary.** Staking holds the root ball firmly in the soil. Top-heavy trees might require staking, especially if they’re located in a windy location. Stakes should be removed within one year of planting. - **Water trees frequently so roots fully establish.** Light, frequent irrigation fosters the quickest establishment for trees (see “Establishing Trees” below for more information). Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, water weekly until plants are fully established. ### Protecting Tree Roots The health of a tree’s roots is one of the biggest factors in its success. Most tree roots are located in the top two feet of soil, where oxygen is most available. Digging near trees can cut roots, so make sure utilities are placed around or under them. Compacted soil is also a problem for tree roots. It contains little oxygen, which tree roots need to survive and grow. Soil compaction is caused by mowing under the tree canopy, heavy equipment traffic (common during construction), and the use of fill soil in the landscape. To prevent soil compaction, do not operate equipment (like a lawn mower) or park your car under your trees. Before beginning construction, consult with your contractor to create a plan for preserving your trees. You can also construct a barrier fence outside the trees’ drip lines to keep vehicles, construction materials, and foot traffic from compacting the soil. (The fence will also protect the branches and trunk from injury.) Trees particularly sensitive to soil compaction include sweetgum (*Liquidambar*), dogwood (*Cornus* spp.), sassafras (*Sassafras* spp.), tupelo (*Nyssa* spp.), pine (*Pinus* spp.), white oak (*Quercus alba*), laurel oak (*Quercus laurifolia*) and most nut trees, such as black walnut *(Juglans nigra*), hickory (*Carya* spp.), and pecan (*Carya illinoinensis*). ### Establishing Trees ![Woman planting a tree](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-232.png) It’s important to make sure that the tree sits level in its hole and that the root ball ends up an inch or so above the surrounding ground once the hole is backfilled. Newly planted trees need regular irrigation to rapidly grow the roots necessary for proper establishment. For trees planted in spring or summer, water two to three times per week. After the first few months, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. Irrigations should be 2 to 3 gallons of water per inch trunk diameter. For example, a 2-inch tree should be watered 4 to 6 gallons each irrigation. Handwatering may be the only way you can follow this schedule and still comply with water restrictions. Establish a structural pruning program early on to maintain one dominant trunk. Trees with one main trunk are stronger than trees with two or more trunks (co-dominant stems). Reducing the length of competing stems early in the tree’s life ensures that one trunk will dominate the others and become the main trunk, giving the tree strength and stability. This type of pruning is best performed on a regular basis for the first fifteen or twenty years after a tree is planted. #### Also on Gardening Solutions - [Trees](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/plants/trees-and-more/trees/) - [Common Landscape Pitfalls: Tree Root Problems](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/plants/trees-and-more/trees/tree-root-problems/) - [Planting Palms](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/care/planting/planting-palms/) - [Planting and Establishing Shrubs](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/care/planting/planting-shrubs/) - [Planting Trees for Energy Savings](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/design/landscaping-for-specific-sites/planting-trees-for-energy-savings/) - [Pruning and Maintaining Trees](https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/home/care/pruning/pruning-and-maintaining-trees/) #### More from UF/IFAS - [Planting and Establishing Trees–Ask IFAS](https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP314) #### Learn Much More About Trees - [UF/IFAS Landscape Plants — Dr. Edward Gilman](https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/) *(Don’t be put off by the vague name; this website is the most thorough source of research-based information on trees and shrubs found online.)*

ML Classification

ML Categories

/Home_and_Garden		99.9%
/Home_and_Garden/Patio,_Lawn_and_Garden		99.6%
/Home_and_Garden/Patio,_Lawn_and_Garden/Gardening		94.3%

Raw JSON

{
    "/Home_and_Garden": 999,
    "/Home_and_Garden/Patio,_Lawn_and_Garden": 996,
    "/Home_and_Garden/Patio,_Lawn_and_Garden/Gardening": 943
}

ML Page Types

/Article		99.6%
/Article/How_to		81.0%

Raw JSON

{
    "/Article": 996,
    "/Article/How_to": 810
}

ML Intent Types

Informational

99.8%

Raw JSON

{
    "Informational": 998
}

Content Metadata

Language

en-us

Author

null

Publish Time

not set

Original Publish Time

2024-06-25 22:15:48 (1 year ago)

Republished

Word Count (Total)

1,398

Word Count (Content)

1,173

Links

External Links

Internal Links

Technical SEO

Meta Nofollow

Meta Noarchive

JS Rendered

Yes

Redirect Target

null

Performance

Download Time (ms)

196

TTFB (ms)

150

Download Size (bytes)

31,806

Shard

65 (laksa)

Root Hash

9649183866810524865

Unparsed URL

edu,ufl!ifas,gardeningsolutions,/care/planting/planting-and-establishing-trees/ s443