🕷️ Crawler Inspector

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Raw Queries and Responses

1. Shard Calculation

Query:

Response:

Calculated Shard: 152 (from laksa105)

2. Crawled Status Check

Query:

curl -X POST \
  'http://laksa152.int.ahrefs:8124/' \
  -H 'Content-Type: text/plain' \
  -H 'X-ClickHouse-Database: crawler3' \
  -H 'Authorization: Basic YXBpOg==' \
  -d 'SELECT getAhrefsURLFromUnparsed(src_unparsed) AS found_url, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(download_stamp), 0) AS crawl_time, ifNull(toUnixTimestamp(props_url_first_seen), 0) AS first_indexed_time, download_http_code AS http_code, src_unparsed AS src_unparsed, src_root_hash AS src_root_hash, history_drop_reason AS history_drop_reason, meta_title AS meta_title, meta_descriptions AS meta_descriptions, attrs_boilerpipe_text AS attrs_boilerpipe_text, attrs_markdown AS attrs_markdown, attrs_readable_markdown AS attrs_readable_markdown, meta_canonical AS meta_canonical FROM crawler3.page_info_local FINAL PREWHERE (src_root_hash, src_unparsed) IN ((getAhrefsRootHashFromUnparsed(getAhrefsUnparsedNoserviceFromURL(\'https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong\')), getAhrefsUnparsedNoserviceFromURL(\'https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong\'))) FORMAT JSONEachRow'

Response:

{"found_url":"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong","crawl_time":1758240967,"first_indexed_time":0,"http_code":200,"src_unparsed":"org,wikipedia!en,\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong s443","src_root_hash":"17790707453426894952","history_drop_reason":null,"meta_title":"Lucien Lelong - Wikipedia","meta_descriptions":[],"attrs_boilerpipe_text":"French fashion designer (1889–1958) Lucien Lelong  ( French: [lysjɛ̃ ləlɔ̃] ; 11 October 1889 – 11 May 1958) [ 1 ]  was a French  couturier  who was prominent from the 1920s to the 1940s. His couture fashion house was one of the largest in Paris in the interwar period, [ 2 ] : 76   and Lelong was an important figure in the management of the French fashion industry during  World War II .\n Early life, education and war service [ edit ] Lelong was born in Paris to Arthur Camille Joseph Lelong and Éléonore Marie Lambelet, couturiers and owners of a fashion store called  A.E. Lelong  on  Place de la Madeleine . [ 1 ] [ 3 ]  He attended the  École des hautes études commerciales  in Paris between 1911 and 1913, [ 1 ]  first studying  political science  but graduating with a business degree. [ 3 ]  He also learned about fabric from his uncle, a fabric merchant, [ 1 ]  but received no formal fashion design training. [ 3 ]  The first Lelong designs were featured in  Vogue  magazine in 1913. [ 4 ] Lelong was  drafted for military service  in the  First World War  in 1914, interrupting the creation and presentation of his first collection. [ 1 ]  He served as an  intelligence officer , spent time in the trenches, and suffered shrapnel wounds to his face. [ 3 ]  He was awarded the  Croix de Guerre . [ 2 ] : 76  He returned to the family business in 1918 and by 1921, the business employed 17 people and was renamed 'Lucien Lelong'. [ 1 ]  In the following years, Lucien Lelong was recognised as an up-and-coming fashion house, alongside those of  Jean Patou  and  Edward Molyneux . [ 1 ]  Lelong would offer a discount to society ladies who would agree to be photographed wearing his designs. [ 3 ] In 1924, Lelong moved his fashion house to  Avenue Matignon  [ fr ]  in  Paris' 8th arrondissment  and began creating  perfume . [ 1 ]  Between 1925 and 1952, he created and sold over 40 perfumes. [ 1 ]  Lelong's early perfumes were called  A ,  B ,  C ,  J  and  N ; their simple names \"created an aura of mystery and romance\". [ 5 ]  His perfume packaging was initially purely functional but, as demand increased, Lelong began to recognise the value of decorative packaging. [ 5 ]  Lelong designed most of his own perfume bottles, taking inspiration from fabrics,  garlands ,  feathers  and  modern architecture . [ 5 ]  For his perfume  Ting-a-Ling , Lelong designed a gold bottle with six  jingle bells . [ 5 ] In 1926, Lelong was made a  Knight of the Legion of Honour , [ 1 ]  and in 1928 he was inducted as a committee member of the  Chambre Syndicale de la Couture , [ 2 ] : 79   an organisation of French haute couture fashion houses.\n In the 1930s, in response to the  Great Depression , Lelong was a pioneer of the concept of  ready-to-wear luxury clothing . [ 6 ] [ 1 ]  His first ready-to-wear collection was called  Robes d'Edition  and was released in 1934. [ 2 ] : 80  Vionnet  and  Patou  had both tried similar ventures before, but neither had lasted more than a few months. [ 2 ] : 80  Robes d'Edition  filled a niche in between manufactured and bespoke clothing; designs were made in five sizes with alterations being able to be added to the garment's cost. [ 2 ] : 80   Only a limited number of reproductions were made, with designs being frequently introduced and retired; in an interview with  Vogue , Lelong likened the idea to that of a limited edition of a book. [ 2 ] : 80   By the autumn of 1934, the  Edition  range alone employed 600 workers year-round. [ 2 ] : 80   The range was discontinued in 1940 after the German occupation of Paris. [ 7 ] : 121  In 1937, Lelong was unanimously elected president of the  Chambre Syndicale de la Couture . [ 3 ] [ 8 ]  In 1938, he oversaw the renegotiation of  collective agreements  with the Chambre Syndicale's unions, primarily the socialist  GCT  and Christian labour unions. [ 2 ] : 105   He would serve as president until 1945. [ 8 ] French fashion was a major exporter to the US and Lelong had excellent relationships with American firms. [ 2 ] : 77–78   In 1925, Lelong was offered a study trip to the US by the French Ministries of Fine Arts,  Public Instruction , and  Labour . [ 2 ] : 78   He used the trip to visit American factories, met labour experts in  Washington, DC , and observe American women in order to produce garments that met their needs. [ 2 ] : 78   He opened a perfume branch in  Chicago  in 1928, [ 1 ]  and by July 1929 had leased a  New York  office at  657 Fifth Avenue  to serve as an  East Coast  headquarters and manage Lelong's sales to US  department stores . [ 2 ] : 79  Lelong's 1931 visit to America was organised and publicised by  Edward Bernays ; Lelong talked about perfume and design on  CBS  and was invited by  Vogue  editor  Edna Woolman Chase  to a  Fashion Group  meeting. [ 2 ] : 79  Lelong traveled to America in October 1935 on a study trip commissioned by  Pierre Laval , then  Minister for Foreign Affairs , to report on working conditions in the American clothing industry. [ 1 ] [ 2 ] : 83   In the winter of 1937, Lelong visited  Hollywood  which was \"an emerging fashion city\" at the time. [ 2 ] : 100  War-time activities [ edit ] The  Second World War  had \"an immediate effect on Paris fashion\", and many houses closed, including  Mainbocher ,  Charles James , and  Schiaparelli . [ 3 ]  Lelong was  mobilised  on 28 August 1939, at the same time as many other members of the fashion industry, as a  lieutenant  in the  3rd Cuirassier Regiment . [ 7 ] : 110   Lelong closed the Chamber Syndicale's school and placed Chamber secretary Daniel Gorin in charge of the organisation. [ 7 ] : 111   Ten days after being mobilised, Lelong was demobilised and sent back to Paris; American journalist  Kathleen Cannell  suggested that this was on the orders of the French government. [ 7 ] : 111  On 12 September, Lelong called a committee meeting where the potential for resuming work was discussed; one of the most important dilemmas was how to keep the sector's 25,000 workers employed and avoid redundancies. [ 7 ] : 111   In a  telegram  to  Edna Woolman Chase , Lelong wrote: \"Am doing utmost to find financial and commercial solution. Allowing for the reopening of houses and the living of thousands of women.\" [ 7 ] : 111   He negotiated with the Ministry of Labor and the  Military Commissariat  to provide work for unemployed workers making military uniforms,  carryalls  and blankets. [ 7 ] : 113   Fashion houses began to assess which other cities would be best to relocate to:  Cannes ,  Vichy , or  Biarritz , where most houses already had branches. [ 7 ] : 111  The haute couture industry also faced significant financial pressures. By early October 1939, 90% of houses were closed with the remaining 10% working with reduced staff. [ 7 ] : 112   Couturiers had to keep paying taxes, rent and wages but were unable to recover credit extended to their private customers which amounted to a value of 100 million  francs . [ 7 ] : 112   Lelong expected that the lost profits from the autumn collections, the sharp reduction in clients, and the loss of foreign markets meant that fashion houses would not be able to turn a profit and lobbied the government to extend tax deadlines and give preferential terms to couturiers. [ 7 ] : 112   For unemployed workers who were owed redundancy pay, Lelong negotiated a delay citing the exceptional circumstances. [ 7 ] : 112  The French government then announced that it was important that civilian activities  continued as normal  and that the couture business should reopen since it was an important export industry. [ 7 ] : 112   In a meeting of the Chamber Syndicale on 6 October, Lelong said that \"opening one's house can be considered an act of  national duty \". [ 7 ] : 112   Midseason collections were organised and, despite Lelong's reluctance, he showed thirty silhouettes in a show in early November. [ 7 ] : 112   In a Christmas show, Lelong presented \"his first wartime collection\" with designs in  red, white and blue . [ 7 ] : 112  In March 1940, when the government introduced price regulation and  rationing , haute couture was \"left untouched\". [ 7 ] : 115   The Chamber Syndicale in April gave Lelong full responsibility for the industry during the war and he was appointed to a post in the  Ministry of Information  as head of a unit in charge of developing French luxury business during wartime. [ 7 ] : 115   He announced that \"no amount of terrorizing by the Nazis would deter them from showing their midseason collections and carrying on.\" [ 7 ] : 115  A German tank passing a  Louis Vuitton  store during the occupation of Paris. Fashion houses which acquiesced to Nazi rules were allowed to stay open during the occupation. When  Nazi Germany occupied Paris  in June 1940, German forces took over the Chambre Syndicale's office and seized its files with the intention of relocating Paris' fashion industry to  Berlin  or  Vienna  to create a global fashion centre which was  more coordinated with Nazi ideals . [ 3 ]  In August 1940, Lelong presented plans to the Chambre Syndicale supporting widespread industry reorganisation along  corporatist  lines in order to work within the German occupation decrees. [ 7 ] : 120–121   The law of 16 August 1940 created  comités d'organisation  which would oversee production and resource distribution, [ 9 ]  effectively moving occupied France to a state-controlled economy. [ 7 ] : 122   Lelong was appointed to chair Group I, a group which covered the couture sector within the new committee system of industry set up under the Ministry of Production. [ 7 ] : 122   Between the summer of 1940 and early 1942, Lelong did not call any further meetings of the Chambre Syndicale. [ 7 ] : 122  Lelong persuaded the Nazis to keep the industry in Paris, [ 10 ]  arguing that any attempt at relocation would kill the industry due to its fragile  supply chains ; his fashion house was one of those allowed to stay open during the occupation and largely catered to the wives and daughters of Nazi officers who were some of the only people allowed to buy haute couture garments. [ 3 ] In January 1942, Lelong said that, during the war, \"our single preoccupation was to keep Paris Couture alive despite the innumerable difficulties\" and that his work with both the French and occupation governments was \"inspired by our only concern of defending the profession's interests.\" [ 7 ] : 124   The occupying authorities sought to export haute couture for raw materials from abroad and in 1942, \n Forbes  describes Lelong's position during the war as \"working in a lot of grey areas\", [ 3 ]  and after the war, Lelong was investigated as a  Nazi collaborator . However, the combination of New York's fashion press being \"eager to restore the good name of French fashion\" and the French government wanting to revive fashion as an important  export industry  meant that no couturiers faced formal collaboration charges. [ 11 ]  Lelong was  acquitted of being a collaborator , with a judge overseeing his case ruling that his cooperation was minimal and had been done to save French workers (12,000 of whom worked in the couture industry), [ 10 ]  Jewish lives and protect  French culture . [ 3 ] Post-liberation and Théâtre de la Mode [ edit ] After France was liberated in 1944, living conditions did not immediately improve. [ 12 ] : 130  Raoul Dautry , the  Minister of Reconstruction and Urban Development , asked Robert Ricci (the son of  Nina Ricci ) to come up with a fundraising idea to help with war efforts. [ 13 ]  Ricci went to Lelong to discuss ideas and came up with an exhibit of fashion dolls: the  Théâtre de la Mode . [ 13 ]  The dolls were 27 inches (69 cm) high  wire figures  with plaster faces by  Joan Rebull  [ es ] , a  Catalan  sculptor. [ 13 ]  They were dressed in garments designed by 40 couturiers (including  Balenciaga ,  Schiaparelli ,  Paquin ,  Patou ,  Hermès ,  Madame Grès  and Lelong himself) and were arranged together in different settings designed by Chambre Syndicale members as well as  Jean Cocteau  and  Christian Bérard . [ 13 ]  Dolls were used so that less material was needed; Lelong said that the exhibition was \"not intended to represent luxury or lavish use of materials; it is instead a proof of ingenuity and good taste.\" [ 13 ]  The exhibition toured internationally and was seen to be a great success. [ 13 ] Lelong himself did not create the garments that bore his label; instead, he employed designers who worked for him to turn his ideas into clothing. [ 3 ]  \"He did not design himself, but worked through his designers,\" wrote  Christian Dior , who was a member of the Lelong team from 1941 until 1946, during which time he created the collections in collaboration with  Pierre Balmain . [ 14 ]  \"Nevertheless,\" Dior continued, \"in the course of his career as couturier his collections retained a style which was really his own and greatly resembled him.\" [ 14 ]  Other designers who worked for Lelong included  Nadine Robinson  and  Hubert de Givenchy . [ 3 ] Lelong used the adjective 'kinetic' to describe the silhouette that he developed from 1925 onwards, which succeeded the  garçonne  style of the early 1920s. [ 2 ] : 76  [ 1 ]  According to Lelong the silhouette was meant to \"[give] the wearer a pleasing appearance while in motion\". [ 2 ] : 76  Among Lelong's clients were Marie Duhamel,  Nora Barnacle  (wife of James Joyce),  Jeanne Ternisien  (wife of the banker Georges Nelze), the  Duchess de la Rochefoucauld ,  Greta Garbo ,  Gloria Swanson ,  Colette , and  Rose Kennedy . [ citation needed ] In 1935, Lelong designed the  wedding dress  of  Josée Laval  for her wedding to  René de Chambrun . [ 2 ] : 83  Retirement and death [ edit ] Lelong's health deteriorated in 1947 and caused the end of his career; [ 3 ]  he retired from couture in August 1948, leaving his fall collection unfinished, [ 15 ]  and only continued his perfume business. [ 16 ] \nHe married for the third time in 1954, to Sanda Dancovici, after having retired in 1952. They lived together near  Biarritz  in the commune of  Anglet , at the Domaine de Courbois, which they restored at great expense. They played golf with the  Duke of Windsor  and held receptions at the estate. They had a daughter, Christine.\n Lelong died from complications from a  stroke  in May 1958 while visiting  Anglet, France . [ 3 ] Lelong's brother Pierre ran a French textile firm called Soieries Péhel which shared Lelong's New York offices; the two brothers often traveled to America together. [ 2 ] : 79  Lelong was married three times. His wives were:\n Anne-Marie Audoy (1899-1935), whom he married in 1919 and divorced in 1927. They had one daughter, Nicole (born 1920), who became the directrice of her father's fashion house in 1947; she was also the namesake of his 1938 lipstick introduction, Nicole Pink. Anne-Marie Lelong, who returned to her maiden name after the Lelongs' divorce, married Baron Bertrand Clauzel in 1930. Sanda Annette Dancovici (1919-2001), an actress, whom he married in 1954; she was the daughter of Mircea Danovici. After Lelong's death she married, in 1959, French journalist  Maurice Goudeket , the widower of  Colette . [ 17 ] Hamish Bowles  called Lelong the \"fore-father of today's fashion industry titans\". [ 6 ] Pieces by Lelong are included in several museum collections including those of the  Metropolitan Museum of Art , [ 8 ]  the  V&A Museum , [ 18 ]  the  Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum , [ 19 ]  and  Los Angeles County Museum of Art . [ 20 ] Vivien Leigh 's 1940s embroidered Lelong jacket is in the collection of the  Fashion Museum, Bath . [ 21 ] The  Fashion Institute of Technology  in  New York  held an exhibition of Lelong's work in 2006 titled  Modern Master: Lucien Lelong, Couturier (1918-1948) . [ 6 ] Lelong was played by  John Malkovich  in  Apple TV+ 's  The New Look  in 2024. [ 10 ]","attrs_markdown":"[Jump to content](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#bodyContent)\n\nMain menu\n\nMain menu\n\nmove to sidebar\n\nhide\n\nNavigation\n\n- [Main page](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Main_Page \"Visit the main page [z]\")\n- [Contents](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Wikipedia:Contents \"Guides to browsing Wikipedia\")\n- [Current events](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Portal:Current_events \"Articles related to current events\")\n- [Random article](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:Random \"Visit a randomly selected article [x]\")\n- [About Wikipedia](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Wikipedia:About \"Learn about Wikipedia and how it works\")\n- [Contact us](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Wikipedia:Contact_us \"How to contact Wikipedia\")\n\nContribute\n\n- [Help](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Help:Contents \"Guidance on how to use and edit Wikipedia\")\n- [Learn to edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Help:Introduction \"Learn how to edit Wikipedia\")\n- [Community portal](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Wikipedia:Community_portal \"The hub for editors\")\n- [Recent changes](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:RecentChanges \"A list of recent changes to Wikipedia [r]\")\n- [Upload file](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Wikipedia:File_upload_wizard \"Add images or other media for use on Wikipedia\")\n- [Special pages](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:SpecialPages)\n\n[![](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/static\/images\/icons\/wikipedia.png) ![Wikipedia](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/static\/images\/mobile\/copyright\/wikipedia-wordmark-en.svg) ![The Free Encyclopedia](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/static\/images\/mobile\/copyright\/wikipedia-tagline-en.svg)](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Main_Page)\n\n[Search](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:Search \"Search Wikipedia [f]\")\n\nAppearance\n\n- [Donate](https:\/\/donate.wikimedia.org\/?wmf_source=donate&wmf_medium=sidebar&wmf_campaign=en.wikipedia.org&uselang=en)\n- [Create account](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Special:CreateAccount&returnto=Lucien+Lelong \"You are encouraged to create an account and log in; however, it is not mandatory\")\n- [Log in](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Special:UserLogin&returnto=Lucien+Lelong \"You're encouraged to log in; however, it's not mandatory. [o]\")\n\nPersonal tools\n\n- [Donate](https:\/\/donate.wikimedia.org\/?wmf_source=donate&wmf_medium=sidebar&wmf_campaign=en.wikipedia.org&uselang=en)\n- [Create account](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Special:CreateAccount&returnto=Lucien+Lelong \"You are encouraged to create an account and log in; however, it is not mandatory\")\n- [Log in](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Special:UserLogin&returnto=Lucien+Lelong \"You're encouraged to log in; however, it's not mandatory. [o]\")\n\nPages for logged out editors [learn more](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Help:Introduction)\n\n- [Contributions](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:MyContributions \"A list of edits made from this IP address [y]\")\n- [Talk](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:MyTalk \"Discussion about edits from this IP address [n]\")\n\n## Contents\nmove to sidebar\n\nhide\n\n- [(Top)](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong)\n- [1 Early life, education and war service](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Early_life,_education_and_war_service)\n- [2 Fashion career](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Fashion_career)\n  Toggle Fashion career subsection\n  - [2\\.1 Work in America](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Work_in_America)\n  - [2\\.2 War-time activities](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#War-time_activities)\n    - [2\\.2.1 Pre-occupation](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Pre-occupation)\n    - [2\\.2.2 Under occupation](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Under_occupation)\n  - [2\\.3 Post-liberation and Théâtre de la Mode](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Post-liberation_and_Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre_de_la_Mode)\n  - [2\\.4 Design](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Design)\n  - [2\\.5 Clientele](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Clientele)\n- [3 Retirement and death](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Retirement_and_death)\n- [4 Personal life](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Personal_life)\n  Toggle Personal life subsection\n  - [4\\.1 Marriages](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Marriages)\n- [5 Legacy](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#Legacy)\n- [6 References](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#References)\n\nToggle the table of contents\n\n# Lucien Lelong\n9 languages\n\n- [Беларуская](https:\/\/be.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/%D0%9B%D1%8E%D1%81%D1%8C%D0%B5%D0%BD_%D0%9B%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B3 \"Люсьен Лелонг – Belarusian\")\n- [Deutsch](https:\/\/de.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong \"Lucien Lelong – German\")\n- [Euskara](https:\/\/eu.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong \"Lucien Lelong – Basque\")\n- [Français](https:\/\/fr.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong \"Lucien Lelong – French\")\n- [Italiano](https:\/\/it.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong \"Lucien Lelong – Italian\")\n- [Nederlands](https:\/\/nl.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong \"Lucien Lelong – Dutch\")\n- [Русский](https:\/\/ru.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/%D0%9B%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B3,_%D0%9B%D1%8E%D1%81%D1%8C%D0%B5%D0%BD \"Лелонг, Люсьен – Russian\")\n- [Suomi](https:\/\/fi.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong \"Lucien Lelong – Finnish\")\n- [Українська](https:\/\/uk.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/%D0%9B%D1%8E%D1%81%D1%8C%D1%94%D0%BD_%D0%9B%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B3 \"Люсьєн Лелонг – 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|\n|---|---|\n| [![Photograph of Lucien Lelong wearing a suit and hat](https:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/6\/69\/Lucien_Lelong_in_1925.tif\/lossy-page1-250px-Lucien_Lelong_in_1925.tif.jpg)](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/File:Lucien_Lelong_in_1925.tif)Lelong in 1925 |   |\n| Born | (1889-10-11)October 11, 1889 [Paris](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Paris \"Paris\"), France |\n| Died | May 11, 1958(1958-05-11) (aged 68) [Anglet](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Anglet \"Anglet\"), France |\n| Alma mater | [École des hautes études commerciales](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/HEC_Paris \"HEC Paris\") |\n| Spouses | Anne-Marie Audoy   ( m. 1919; div. 1927\\)  [Natalia Pavlovna Paley](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Natalia_Pavlovna_Paley \"Natalia Pavlovna Paley\")   ( m. 1927; div. 1937\\)  Sanda Annette Dancovici   ( m. 1954\\)  |\n| Signature |   |\n| [![](https:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/9\/91\/Lucien_Lelong_-_Signature.jpg\/250px-Lucien_Lelong_-_Signature.jpg)](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/File:Lucien_Lelong_-_Signature.jpg) |   |\n\n**Lucien Lelong** (French: [\\[lysjɛ̃ ləlɔ̃\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Help:IPA\/French \"Help:IPA\/French\"); 11 October 1889 – 11 May 1958)[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) was a French [couturier](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Couturier \"Couturier\") who was prominent from the 1920s to the 1940s. His couture fashion house was one of the largest in Paris in the interwar period,[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 76  and Lelong was an important figure in the management of the French fashion industry during [World War II](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/World_War_II \"World War II\").\n\n## Early life, education and war service\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=1 \"Edit section: Early life, education and war service\")\\]\n\nLelong was born in Paris to Arthur Camille Joseph Lelong and Éléonore Marie Lambelet, couturiers and owners of a fashion store called *A.E. Lelong* on [Place de la Madeleine](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Place_de_la_Madeleine \"Place de la Madeleine\").[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1)[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) He attended the [École des hautes études commerciales](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/HEC_Paris \"HEC Paris\") in Paris between 1911 and 1913,[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) first studying [political science](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Political_science \"Political science\") but graduating with a business degree.[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) He also learned about fabric from his uncle, a fabric merchant,[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) but received no formal fashion design training.[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) The first Lelong designs were featured in *[Vogue](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vogue_\\(magazine\\) \"Vogue (magazine)\")* magazine in 1913.[\\[4\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-4)\n\nLelong was [drafted for military service](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Conscription_in_France \"Conscription in France\") in the [First World War](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/First_World_War \"First World War\") in 1914, interrupting the creation and presentation of his first collection.[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) He served as an [intelligence officer](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Intelligence_officer \"Intelligence officer\"), spent time in the trenches, and suffered shrapnel wounds to his face.[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) He was awarded the [Croix de Guerre](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Croix_de_Guerre \"Croix de Guerre\").[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 76\n\n## Fashion career\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=2 \"Edit section: Fashion career\")\\]\n\nHe returned to the family business in 1918 and by 1921, the business employed 17 people and was renamed 'Lucien Lelong'.[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) In the following years, Lucien Lelong was recognised as an up-and-coming fashion house, alongside those of [Jean Patou](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Patou \"Patou\") and [Edward Molyneux](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Edward_Molyneux \"Edward Molyneux\").[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) Lelong would offer a discount to society ladies who would agree to be photographed wearing his designs.[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3)\n\nIn 1924, Lelong moved his fashion house to [Avenue Matignon](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Avenue_Matignon&action=edit&redlink=1 \"Avenue Matignon (page does not exist)\") \\[[fr](https:\/\/fr.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Avenue_Matignon \"fr:Avenue Matignon\")\\] in [Paris' 8th arrondissment](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/8th_arrondissement_of_Paris \"8th arrondissement of Paris\") and began creating [perfume](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Perfume \"Perfume\").[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) Between 1925 and 1952, he created and sold over 40 perfumes.[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) Lelong's early perfumes were called *A*, *B*, *C*, *J* and *N*; their simple names \"created an aura of mystery and romance\".[\\[5\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-CooperHewitt-5) His perfume packaging was initially purely functional but, as demand increased, Lelong began to recognise the value of decorative packaging.[\\[5\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-CooperHewitt-5) Lelong designed most of his own perfume bottles, taking inspiration from fabrics, [garlands](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Garland \"Garland\"), [feathers](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Feather \"Feather\") and [modern architecture](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Modern_architecture \"Modern architecture\").[\\[5\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-CooperHewitt-5) For his perfume *Ting-a-Ling*, Lelong designed a gold bottle with six [jingle bells](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Jingle_bell \"Jingle bell\").[\\[5\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-CooperHewitt-5)\n\nIn 1926, Lelong was made a [Knight of the Legion of Honour](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Legion_of_Honour \"Legion of Honour\"),[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) and in 1928 he was inducted as a committee member of the [Chambre Syndicale de la Couture](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Chambre_Syndicale_de_la_Couture \"Chambre Syndicale de la Couture\"),[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79  an organisation of French haute couture fashion houses.\n\nIn the 1930s, in response to the [Great Depression](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Great_Depression \"Great Depression\"), Lelong was a pioneer of the concept of [ready-to-wear](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ready-to-wear \"Ready-to-wear\") [luxury clothing](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Luxury_goods \"Luxury goods\").[\\[6\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Bowles-6)[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) His first ready-to-wear collection was called *Robes d'Edition* and was released in 1934.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80  [Vionnet](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vionnet_\\(company\\) \"Vionnet (company)\") and [Patou](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Patou \"Patou\") had both tried similar ventures before, but neither had lasted more than a few months.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80  *Robes d'Edition* filled a niche in between manufactured and bespoke clothing; designs were made in five sizes with alterations being able to be added to the garment's cost.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80  Only a limited number of reproductions were made, with designs being frequently introduced and retired; in an interview with [Vogue](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vogue_Magazine \"Vogue Magazine\"), Lelong likened the idea to that of a limited edition of a book.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80  By the autumn of 1934, the *Edition* range alone employed 600 workers year-round.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80  The range was discontinued in 1940 after the German occupation of Paris.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 121\n\nIn 1937, Lelong was unanimously elected president of the [Chambre Syndicale de la Couture](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Chambre_Syndicale_de_la_Couture \"Chambre Syndicale de la Couture\").[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3)[\\[8\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-MET-8) In 1938, he oversaw the renegotiation of [collective agreements](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Collective_agreement \"Collective agreement\") with the Chambre Syndicale's unions, primarily the socialist [GCT](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/General_Confederation_of_Labour_\\(France\\) \"General Confederation of Labour (France)\") and Christian labour unions.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 105  He would serve as president until 1945.[\\[8\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-MET-8)\n\n### Work in America\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=3 \"Edit section: Work in America\")\\]\n\nFrench fashion was a major exporter to the US and Lelong had excellent relationships with American firms.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 77–78  In 1925, Lelong was offered a study trip to the US by the French Ministries of Fine Arts, [Public Instruction](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ministry_of_National_Education_\\(France\\) \"Ministry of National Education (France)\"), and [Labour](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Minister_of_Labour,_Employment_and_Economic_Inclusion_\\(France\\) \"Minister of Labour, Employment and Economic Inclusion (France)\").[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 78  He used the trip to visit American factories, met labour experts in [Washington, DC](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Washington,_DC \"Washington, DC\"), and observe American women in order to produce garments that met their needs.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 78  He opened a perfume branch in [Chicago](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Chicago \"Chicago\") in 1928,[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) and by July 1929 had leased a [New York](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/New_York_City \"New York City\") office at [657 Fifth Avenue](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fifth_Avenue \"Fifth Avenue\") to serve as an [East Coast](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/East_Coast_of_the_United_States \"East Coast of the United States\") headquarters and manage Lelong's sales to US [department stores](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Department_store \"Department store\").[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79\n\nLelong's 1931 visit to America was organised and publicised by [Edward Bernays](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Edward_Bernays \"Edward Bernays\"); Lelong talked about perfume and design on [CBS](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/CBS \"CBS\") and was invited by [Vogue](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vogue_Magazine \"Vogue Magazine\") editor [Edna Woolman Chase](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Edna_Woolman_Chase \"Edna Woolman Chase\") to a [Fashion Group](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fashion_Group_International \"Fashion Group International\") meeting.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79\n\nLelong traveled to America in October 1935 on a study trip commissioned by [Pierre Laval](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Pierre_Laval \"Pierre Laval\"), then [Minister for Foreign Affairs](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ministry_for_Europe_and_Foreign_Affairs_\\(France\\) \"Ministry for Europe and Foreign Affairs (France)\"), to report on working conditions in the American clothing industry.[\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1)[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 83  In the winter of 1937, Lelong visited [Hollywood](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hollywood,_Los_Angeles \"Hollywood, Los Angeles\") which was \"an emerging fashion city\" at the time.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 100\n\n### War-time activities\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=4 \"Edit section: War-time activities\")\\]\n\n#### Pre-occupation\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=5 \"Edit section: Pre-occupation\")\\]\n\nThe [Second World War](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Second_World_War \"Second World War\") had \"an immediate effect on Paris fashion\", and many houses closed, including [Mainbocher](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Mainbocher \"Mainbocher\"), [Charles James](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Charles_James_\\(designer\\) \"Charles James (designer)\"), and [Schiaparelli](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Maison_Schiaparelli \"Maison Schiaparelli\").[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) Lelong was [mobilised](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Mobilization \"Mobilization\") on 28 August 1939, at the same time as many other members of the fashion industry, as a [lieutenant](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lieutenant \"Lieutenant\") in the [3rd Cuirassier Regiment](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/3rd_Cuirassier_Regiment_\\(France\\) \"3rd Cuirassier Regiment (France)\").[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 110  Lelong closed the Chamber Syndicale's school and placed Chamber secretary Daniel Gorin in charge of the organisation.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111  Ten days after being mobilised, Lelong was demobilised and sent back to Paris; American journalist [Kathleen Cannell](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Kathleen_Eaton_Cannell \"Kathleen Eaton Cannell\") suggested that this was on the orders of the French government.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111\n\nOn 12 September, Lelong called a committee meeting where the potential for resuming work was discussed; one of the most important dilemmas was how to keep the sector's 25,000 workers employed and avoid redundancies.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111  In a [telegram](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Telegram \"Telegram\") to [Edna Woolman Chase](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Edna_Woolman_Chase \"Edna Woolman Chase\"), Lelong wrote: \"Am doing utmost to find financial and commercial solution. Allowing for the reopening of houses and the living of thousands of women.\"[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111  He negotiated with the Ministry of Labor and the [Military Commissariat](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Military_commissariat \"Military commissariat\") to provide work for unemployed workers making military uniforms, [carryalls](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Duffel_bag \"Duffel bag\") and blankets.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 113  Fashion houses began to assess which other cities would be best to relocate to: [Cannes](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Cannes \"Cannes\"), [Vichy](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vichy \"Vichy\"), or [Biarritz](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Biarritz \"Biarritz\"), where most houses already had branches.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111\n\nThe haute couture industry also faced significant financial pressures. By early October 1939, 90% of houses were closed with the remaining 10% working with reduced staff.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112  Couturiers had to keep paying taxes, rent and wages but were unable to recover credit extended to their private customers which amounted to a value of 100 million [francs](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Franc \"Franc\").[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112  Lelong expected that the lost profits from the autumn collections, the sharp reduction in clients, and the loss of foreign markets meant that fashion houses would not be able to turn a profit and lobbied the government to extend tax deadlines and give preferential terms to couturiers.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112  For unemployed workers who were owed redundancy pay, Lelong negotiated a delay citing the exceptional circumstances.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112\n\nThe French government then announced that it was important that civilian activities [continued as normal](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Business_as_usual_\\(business\\) \"Business as usual (business)\") and that the couture business should reopen since it was an important export industry.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112  In a meeting of the Chamber Syndicale on 6 October, Lelong said that \"opening one's house can be considered an act of [national duty](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Patriotic_duty \"Patriotic duty\")\".[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112  Midseason collections were organised and, despite Lelong's reluctance, he showed thirty silhouettes in a show in early November.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112  In a Christmas show, Lelong presented \"his first wartime collection\" with designs in [red, white and blue](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Flag_of_France \"Flag of France\").[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112\n\nIn March 1940, when the government introduced price regulation and [rationing](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Rationing \"Rationing\"), haute couture was \"left untouched\".[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 115  The Chamber Syndicale in April gave Lelong full responsibility for the industry during the war and he was appointed to a post in the [Ministry of Information](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ministry_of_Information_\\(France\\) \"Ministry of Information (France)\") as head of a unit in charge of developing French luxury business during wartime.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 115  He announced that \"no amount of terrorizing by the Nazis would deter them from showing their midseason collections and carrying on.\"[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 115\n\n#### Under occupation\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=6 \"Edit section: Under occupation\")\\]\n\n[![](https:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/6\/62\/Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-256-1234-06%2C_Paris%2C_Wehrmachtsparade.jpg\/250px-Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-256-1234-06%2C_Paris%2C_Wehrmachtsparade.jpg)](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/File:Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-256-1234-06,_Paris,_Wehrmachtsparade.jpg)\n\nA German tank passing a [Louis Vuitton](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Louis_Vuitton \"Louis Vuitton\") store during the occupation of Paris. Fashion houses which acquiesced to Nazi rules were allowed to stay open during the occupation.\n\nWhen [Nazi Germany](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Nazi_Germany \"Nazi Germany\") [occupied Paris](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Paris_in_World_War_II \"Paris in World War II\") in June 1940, German forces took over the Chambre Syndicale's office and seized its files with the intention of relocating Paris' fashion industry to [Berlin](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Berlin \"Berlin\") or [Vienna](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vienna \"Vienna\") to create a global fashion centre which was [more coordinated with Nazi ideals](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Gleichschaltung \"Gleichschaltung\").[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) In August 1940, Lelong presented plans to the Chambre Syndicale supporting widespread industry reorganisation along [corporatist](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Corporatism \"Corporatism\") lines in order to work within the German occupation decrees.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 120–121  The law of 16 August 1940 created [comités d'organisation](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Comit%C3%A9s_d%27organisation \"Comités d'organisation\") which would oversee production and resource distribution,[\\[9\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-9) effectively moving occupied France to a state-controlled economy.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 122  Lelong was appointed to chair Group I, a group which covered the couture sector within the new committee system of industry set up under the Ministry of Production.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 122  Between the summer of 1940 and early 1942, Lelong did not call any further meetings of the Chambre Syndicale.[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 122\n\nLelong persuaded the Nazis to keep the industry in Paris,[\\[10\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BI-10) arguing that any attempt at relocation would kill the industry due to its fragile [supply chains](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Supply_chain \"Supply chain\"); his fashion house was one of those allowed to stay open during the occupation and largely catered to the wives and daughters of Nazi officers who were some of the only people allowed to buy haute couture garments.[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3)\n\nIn January 1942, Lelong said that, during the war, \"our single preoccupation was to keep Paris Couture alive despite the innumerable difficulties\" and that his work with both the French and occupation governments was \"inspired by our only concern of defending the profession's interests.\"[\\[7\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 124  The occupying authorities sought to export haute couture for raw materials from abroad and in 1942,\n\n*[Forbes](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Forbes \"Forbes\")* describes Lelong's position during the war as \"working in a lot of grey areas\",[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) and after the war, Lelong was investigated as a [Nazi collaborator](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Collaboration_with_Nazi_Germany_and_Fascist_Italy \"Collaboration with Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy\"). However, the combination of New York's fashion press being \"eager to restore the good name of French fashion\" and the French government wanting to revive fashion as an important [export industry](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Trade_promotion_\\(international_trade\\) \"Trade promotion (international trade)\") meant that no couturiers faced formal collaboration charges.[\\[11\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-11) Lelong was [acquitted of being a collaborator](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/%C3%89puration_l%C3%A9gale \"Épuration légale\"), with a judge overseeing his case ruling that his cooperation was minimal and had been done to save French workers (12,000 of whom worked in the couture industry),[\\[10\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BI-10) Jewish lives and protect [French culture](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/French_culture \"French culture\").[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3)\n\n### Post-liberation and Théâtre de la Mode\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=7 \"Edit section: Post-liberation and Théâtre de la Mode\")\\]\n\nSee also: [Théâtre de la Mode](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre_de_la_Mode \"Théâtre de la Mode\")\n\nAfter France was liberated in 1944, living conditions did not immediately improve.[\\[12\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-IM-12): 130  [Raoul Dautry](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Raoul_Dautry \"Raoul Dautry\"), the [Minister of Reconstruction and Urban Development](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Minister_of_Reconstruction_and_Urban_Development \"Minister of Reconstruction and Urban Development\"), asked Robert Ricci (the son of [Nina Ricci](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Nina_Ricci_\\(designer\\) \"Nina Ricci (designer)\")) to come up with a fundraising idea to help with war efforts.[\\[13\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) Ricci went to Lelong to discuss ideas and came up with an exhibit of fashion dolls: the [Théâtre de la Mode](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre_de_la_Mode \"Théâtre de la Mode\").[\\[13\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) The dolls were 27 inches (69 cm) high [wire figures](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Armature_\\(sculpture\\) \"Armature (sculpture)\") with plaster faces by [Joan Rebull](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Joan_Rebull&action=edit&redlink=1 \"Joan Rebull (page does not exist)\") \\[[es](https:\/\/es.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Joan_Rebull \"es:Joan Rebull\")\\], a [Catalan](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Catalans \"Catalans\") sculptor.[\\[13\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) They were dressed in garments designed by 40 couturiers (including [Balenciaga](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga \"Cristóbal Balenciaga\"), [Schiaparelli](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Elsa_Schiaparelli \"Elsa Schiaparelli\"), [Paquin](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Jeanne_Paquin \"Jeanne Paquin\"), [Patou](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Jean_Patou \"Jean Patou\"), [Hermès](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Herm%C3%A8s \"Hermès\"), [Madame Grès](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Madame_Gr%C3%A8s \"Madame Grès\") and Lelong himself) and were arranged together in different settings designed by Chambre Syndicale members as well as [Jean Cocteau](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Jean_Cocteau \"Jean Cocteau\") and [Christian Bérard](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Christian_B%C3%A9rard \"Christian Bérard\").[\\[13\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) Dolls were used so that less material was needed; Lelong said that the exhibition was \"not intended to represent luxury or lavish use of materials; it is instead a proof of ingenuity and good taste.\"[\\[13\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) The exhibition toured internationally and was seen to be a great success.[\\[13\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13)\n\n### Design\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=8 \"Edit section: Design\")\\]\n\nLelong himself did not create the garments that bore his label; instead, he employed designers who worked for him to turn his ideas into clothing.[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) \"He did not design himself, but worked through his designers,\" wrote [Christian Dior](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Christian_Dior \"Christian Dior\"), who was a member of the Lelong team from 1941 until 1946, during which time he created the collections in collaboration with [Pierre Balmain](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Pierre_Balmain \"Pierre Balmain\").[\\[14\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Dior-14) \"Nevertheless,\" Dior continued, \"in the course of his career as couturier his collections retained a style which was really his own and greatly resembled him.\"[\\[14\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Dior-14) Other designers who worked for Lelong included [Nadine Robinson](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Nadine_Robinson&action=edit&redlink=1 \"Nadine Robinson (page does not exist)\") and [Hubert de Givenchy](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hubert_de_Givenchy \"Hubert de Givenchy\").[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3)\n\nLelong used the adjective 'kinetic' to describe the silhouette that he developed from 1925 onwards, which succeeded the [garçonne](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Flapper \"Flapper\") style of the early 1920s.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 76 [\\[1\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) According to Lelong the silhouette was meant to \"\\[give\\] the wearer a pleasing appearance while in motion\".[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 76\n\n### Clientele\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=9 \"Edit section: Clientele\")\\]\n\nAmong Lelong's clients were Marie Duhamel, [Nora Barnacle](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Nora_Barnacle \"Nora Barnacle\") (wife of James Joyce), [Jeanne Ternisien](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Jeanne_Ternisien&action=edit&redlink=1 \"Jeanne Ternisien (page does not exist)\") (wife of the banker Georges Nelze), the [Duchess de la Rochefoucauld](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Duc_de_La_Rochefoucauld \"Duc de La Rochefoucauld\"), [Greta Garbo](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Greta_Garbo \"Greta Garbo\"), [Gloria Swanson](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Gloria_Swanson \"Gloria Swanson\"), [Colette](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Colette \"Colette\"), and [Rose Kennedy](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Rose_Kennedy \"Rose Kennedy\").\\[*[citation needed](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Wikipedia:Citation_needed \"Wikipedia:Citation needed\")*\\]\n\nIn 1935, Lelong designed the [wedding dress](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Wedding_dress \"Wedding dress\") of [Josée Laval](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Jos%C3%A9e_Laval \"Josée Laval\") for her wedding to [René de Chambrun](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ren%C3%A9_de_Chambrun \"René de Chambrun\").[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 83\n\n## Retirement and death\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=10 \"Edit section: Retirement and death\")\\]\n\nLelong's health deteriorated in 1947 and caused the end of his career;[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) he retired from couture in August 1948, leaving his fall collection unfinished,[\\[15\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-15) and only continued his perfume business.[\\[16\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-16) He married for the third time in 1954, to Sanda Dancovici, after having retired in 1952. They lived together near [Biarritz](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Biarritz \"Biarritz\") in the commune of [Anglet](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Anglet \"Anglet\"), at the Domaine de Courbois, which they restored at great expense. They played golf with the [Duke of Windsor](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Edward_VIII \"Edward VIII\") and held receptions at the estate. They had a daughter, Christine.\n\nLelong died from complications from a [stroke](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Stroke \"Stroke\") in May 1958 while visiting [Anglet, France](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Anglet,_France \"Anglet, France\").[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3)\n\n## Personal life\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=11 \"Edit section: Personal life\")\\]\n\nLelong's brother Pierre ran a French textile firm called Soieries Péhel which shared Lelong's New York offices; the two brothers often traveled to America together.[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79\n\n### Marriages\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=12 \"Edit section: Marriages\")\\]\n\nLelong was married three times. His wives were:\n\n- Anne-Marie Audoy (1899-1935), whom he married in 1919 and divorced in 1927. They had one daughter, Nicole (born 1920), who became the directrice of her father's fashion house in 1947; she was also the namesake of his 1938 lipstick introduction, Nicole Pink. Anne-Marie Lelong, who returned to her maiden name after the Lelongs' divorce, married Baron Bertrand Clauzel in 1930.\n\n- Princess [Natalie Paley](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Natalia_Pavlovna_Paley \"Natalia Pavlovna Paley\") (1905–1981), who had worked as a saleswoman in the Lelong perfume department and became one of the house's fashion models in the 1930s.[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) They married on 10 August 1927. The couple separated in 1931,[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79  and divorced in 1936.[\\[3\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) After splitting from Lelong, she pursued a career in acting in [Hollywood](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Cinema_of_the_United_States \"Cinema of the United States\").[\\[2\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79  She was a daughter of [Grand Duke Paul Alexandrovich of Russia](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Grand_Duke_Paul_Alexandrovich_of_Russia \"Grand Duke Paul Alexandrovich of Russia\") and his [morganatic](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Morganatic \"Morganatic\") wife, [Olga Karnovich](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Olga_Valerianovna_Paley \"Olga Valerianovna Paley\") and married John Chapman Wilson in 1937.\n\n- Sanda Annette Dancovici (1919-2001), an actress, whom he married in 1954; she was the daughter of Mircea Danovici. After Lelong's death she married, in 1959, French journalist [Maurice Goudeket](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Maurice_Goudeket&action=edit&redlink=1 \"Maurice Goudeket (page does not exist)\"), the widower of [Colette](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Colette \"Colette\").[\\[17\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-17)\n\n## Legacy\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=13 \"Edit section: Legacy\")\\]\n\n[Hamish Bowles](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hamish_Bowles \"Hamish Bowles\") called Lelong the \"fore-father of today's fashion industry titans\".[\\[6\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Bowles-6)\n\nPieces by Lelong are included in several museum collections including those of the [Metropolitan Museum of Art](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art \"Metropolitan Museum of Art\"),[\\[8\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-MET-8) the [V\\&A Museum](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/V%26A_Museum \"V&A Museum\"),[\\[18\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-18) the [Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fashion_Institute_of_Design_%26_Merchandising_Museum \"Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum\"),[\\[19\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-19) and [Los Angeles County Museum of Art](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Los_Angeles_County_Museum_of_Art \"Los Angeles County Museum of Art\").[\\[20\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-20) [Vivien Leigh](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vivien_Leigh \"Vivien Leigh\")'s 1940s embroidered Lelong jacket is in the collection of the [Fashion Museum, Bath](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fashion_Museum,_Bath \"Fashion Museum, Bath\").[\\[21\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-21)\n\nThe [Fashion Institute of Technology](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology \"Fashion Institute of Technology\") in [New York](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/New_York_City \"New York City\") held an exhibition of Lelong's work in 2006 titled *Modern Master: Lucien Lelong, Couturier (1918-1948)*.[\\[6\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Bowles-6)\n\nLelong was played by [John Malkovich](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/John_Malkovich \"John Malkovich\") in [Apple TV+](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Apple_TV%2B \"Apple TV+\")'s *[The New Look](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/The_New_Look_\\(TV_series\\) \"The New Look (TV series)\")* in 2024.[\\[10\\]](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BI-10)\n\n## References\n\\[[edit](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=14 \"Edit section: References\")\\]\n\n1. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-2) [***d***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-3) [***e***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-4) [***f***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-5) [***g***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-6) [***h***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-7) [***i***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-8) [***j***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-9) [***k***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-10) [***l***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-11) [***m***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-12) [***n***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-13)\n   Papenberg, Daniela (2021). [\"Lelong, Lucien\"](https:\/\/www.degruyter.com\/database\/AKL\/entry\/_6468fe48-60a0-480a-808b-fc6511f02ab7\/html). *[Allgemeines Künstlerlexikon Online](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Allgemeines_K%C3%BCnstlerlexikon \"Allgemeines Künstlerlexikon\")* (in German). Vol. 84. Berlin: [K. G. Saur](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/K._G._Saur_Verlag \"K. G. Saur Verlag\"). p. 45. Retrieved 27 October 2024.\n2. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-2) [***d***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-3) [***e***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-4) [***f***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-5) [***g***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-6) [***h***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-7) [***i***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-8) [***j***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-9) [***k***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-10) [***l***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-11) [***m***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-12) [***n***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-13) [***o***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-14) [***p***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-15) [***q***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-16) [***r***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-17) [***s***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-18) [***t***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-19) [***u***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-20) [***v***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-21)\n   Véronique Pouillard (2021). \"3 - Dressing for Crisis\". *Paris to New York: The Transatlantic Fashion Industry in the Twentieth Century*. [Harvard University Press](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Harvard_University_Press \"Harvard University Press\"). pp. 69–106\\. [doi](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Doi_\\(identifier\\) \"Doi (identifier)\"):[10\\.4159\/9780674259485](https:\/\/doi.org\/10.4159%2F9780674259485). [ISBN](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/ISBN_\\(identifier\\) \"ISBN (identifier)\")\n   \n   [9780674259485](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:BookSources\/9780674259485 \"Special:BookSources\/9780674259485\")\n   \n   .\n3. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-2) [***d***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-3) [***e***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-4) [***f***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-5) [***g***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-6) [***h***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-7) [***i***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-8) [***j***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-9) [***k***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-10) [***l***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-11) [***m***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-12) [***n***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-13) [***o***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-14) [***p***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-15) [***q***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-16)\n   Rachel Elspeth Gross (16 February 2024). [\"Lucien Lelong: Christian Dior's Mentor Before The New Look\"](https:\/\/www.forbes.com\/sites\/rachelelspethgross\/2024\/02\/16\/lucien-lelong-christian-diors-mentor-before-the-new-look\/). *[Forbes](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Forbes \"Forbes\")*. Retrieved 27 October 2024.\n4. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-4)** *Vogue*, 15 January 1913, p. 56.\n5. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-CooperHewitt_5-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-CooperHewitt_5-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-CooperHewitt_5-2) [***d***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-CooperHewitt_5-3)\n   Susan Teichman (3 June 2018). [\"Ting-A-Ling, the Perfume Bottle that Sings\"](https:\/\/www.cooperhewitt.org\/2018\/06\/03\/ting-a-ling-the-perfume-bottle-that-sings\/). *[Cooper Hewitt](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Cooper_Hewitt,_Smithsonian_Design_Museum \"Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum\")*. Retrieved 3 November 2024.\n6. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Bowles_6-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Bowles_6-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Bowles_6-2)\n   [Hamish Bowles](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hamish_Bowles \"Hamish Bowles\") (February 2006). \"Gilt by association\". *[Vogue](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vogue_Magazine \"Vogue Magazine\")*. Vol. 196, no. 2. p. 148.\n7. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-2) [***d***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-3) [***e***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-4) [***f***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-5) [***g***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-6) [***h***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-7) [***i***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-8) [***j***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-9) [***k***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-10) [***l***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-11) [***m***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-12) [***n***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-13) [***o***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-14) [***p***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-15) [***q***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-16) [***r***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-17) [***s***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-18) [***t***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-19) [***u***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-20) [***v***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-21) [***w***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-22) [***x***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-23)\n   Véronique Pouillard (2021). \"4 - Fashion in World War II\". *Paris to New York: The Transatlantic Fashion Industry in the Twentieth Century*. [Harvard University Press](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Harvard_University_Press \"Harvard University Press\"). pp. 107–137\\. [doi](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Doi_\\(identifier\\) \"Doi (identifier)\"):[10\\.4159\/9780674259485](https:\/\/doi.org\/10.4159%2F9780674259485). [ISBN](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/ISBN_\\(identifier\\) \"ISBN (identifier)\")\n   \n   [9780674259485](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:BookSources\/9780674259485 \"Special:BookSources\/9780674259485\")\n   \n   .\n8. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-MET_8-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-MET_8-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-MET_8-2)\n   [\"Evening dress - Lucien Lelong\"](https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/art\/collection\/search\/138249). *[Metropolitan Museum of Art](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art \"Metropolitan Museum of Art\")*. Retrieved 28 October 2024.\n9. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-9)**\n   Filippo Occhino; Kim Oosterlinck; Eugene N. White (March 2006). [\"How occupied France financed its own exploitation in World War II\"](https:\/\/www.nber.org\/system\/files\/working_papers\/w12137\/w12137.pdf) (PDF). *[National Bureau of Economic Research](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/National_Bureau_of_Economic_Research \"National Bureau of Economic Research\")*. pp. 15–16. Retrieved 28 October 2024.\n10. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BI_10-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BI_10-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BI_10-2)\n    Steven MacKenzie (26 February 2024). \"John Malkovich dreams about fabric\". *[Big Issue](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Big_Issue \"Big Issue\")*. No. 1604. pp. 32–33\\.\n11. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-11)**\n    Jill Fields (February 2007). \"7 - Return of the Repressed (Waist), 1947–1952\". *An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality*. [University of California Press](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/University_of_California_Press \"University of California Press\"). pp. 256–271\\. [ISBN](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/ISBN_\\(identifier\\) \"ISBN (identifier)\")\n    \n    [9780520223691](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:BookSources\/9780520223691 \"Special:BookSources\/9780520223691\")\n    \n    .\n12. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-IM_12-0)**\n    Ilaria Maselli (2018). \"Lucien Lelong and the Théâtre de la Mode: the Preservation of Haute Couture during Wartime\". *Almatourism: Journal of Tourism, Culture and Territorial Development*. **9** (9): 129–137\\. [doi](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Doi_\\(identifier\\) \"Doi (identifier)\"):[10\\.6092\/issn.2036-5195\/8806](https:\/\/doi.org\/10.6092%2Fissn.2036-5195%2F8806).\n13. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-1) [***c***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-2) [***d***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-3) [***e***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-4) [***f***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-5)\n    Lilah Ramzi (29 February 2024). [\"The Fascinating History Behind The Doll Exhibition In The New Look\"](https:\/\/www.vogue.co.uk\/article\/the-new-look-doll-exhibition). *[British Vogue](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/British_Vogue \"British Vogue\")*. Retrieved 3 November 2024.\n14. ^ [***a***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Dior_14-0) [***b***](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Dior_14-1) Christian Dior, \"Je suis couturier\", [ELLE](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/ELLE \"ELLE\"), 13 August 1951\n15. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-15)**\n    [\"People: The Working Class\"](https:\/\/content.time.com\/time\/subscriber\/article\/0,33009,888405-2,00.html). *[Time](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Time_Magazine \"Time Magazine\")*. 2 August 1948. Retrieved 27 October 2024.\n16. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-16)**\n    \"Lelong Denies Reports of New Enterprise\". *Women's Wear Daily*. 10 January 1950.\n17. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-17)**\n    [\"Sorcerer's Apprentice\"](https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/books\/99\/10\/17\/specials\/colette-delights.html). *www.nytimes.com*.\n18. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-18)**\n    [\"Evening Dress - 1925 (made)\"](https:\/\/collections.vam.ac.uk\/item\/O72819\/evening-dress-lucien-lelong\/). *[V\\&A Museum](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/V%26A_Museum \"V&A Museum\")*. Retrieved 28 October 2024.\n19. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-19)**\n    [\"Parfums Lucien Lelong: The Peter Fink Collection\"](https:\/\/asufidmmuseum.asu.edu\/learn\/articles\/parfums-lucien-lelong-peter-fink-collection). *[Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fashion_Institute_of_Design_%26_Merchandising_Museum \"Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum\")*. Retrieved 28 October 2024.\n20. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-20)**\n    [\"Lucien Lelong\"](https:\/\/collections.lacma.org\/node\/169357). *[Los Angeles County Museum of Art](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Los_Angeles_County_Museum_of_Art \"Los Angeles County Museum of Art\")*. Retrieved 28 October 2024.\n21. **[^](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-21)**\n    Lisa Stead (March 2021). \"6 -\"The Vivien Leigh room\": Memorializing a local star\". *Reframing Vivien Leigh: Stardom, Gender, and the Archive*. [Oxford University Press](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Oxford_University_Press \"Oxford University Press\"). pp. 184–204\\. [ISBN](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/ISBN_\\(identifier\\) \"ISBN (identifier)\")\n    \n    [9780190906504](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:BookSources\/9780190906504 \"Special:BookSources\/9780190906504\")\n    \n    . \"The Fashion Museum holds Leigh's embroidered jacket from the 1940s made by Parisian couturier Lucien Lelong, one of her Balmain dresses, and a brown and black blouse.\"\n\n| [v](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Template:Grands_couturiers \"Template:Grands couturiers\") [t](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Template_talk:Grands_couturiers \"Template talk:Grands couturiers\") [e](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Special:EditPage\/Template:Grands_couturiers \"Special:EditPage\/Template:Grands couturiers\")Members of the [Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/F%C3%A9d%C3%A9ration_de_la_Haute_Couture_et_de_la_Mode \"Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode\") |   |\n|---|---|\n| Members | [Adeline André](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Adeline_Andr%C3%A9 \"Adeline André\") [Chanel](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Chanel \"Chanel\") [Dior](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Dior \"Dior\") [Julien Fournié](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Julien_Fourni%C3%A9 \"Julien Fournié\") [Maurizio Galante](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Maurizio_Galante&action=edit&redlink=1 \"Maurizio Galante (page does not exist)\") [Jean Paul Gaultier](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Jean_Paul_Gaultier \"Jean Paul Gaultier\") [Givenchy](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Givenchy \"Givenchy\") [Bouchra Jarrar](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Bouchra_Jarrar \"Bouchra Jarrar\") [Alexis Mabille](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Alexis_Mabille \"Alexis Mabille\") [Maison Margiela](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Maison_Margiela \"Maison Margiela\") [Stéphane Rolland](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/St%C3%A9phane_Rolland \"Stéphane Rolland\") [Schiaparelli](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Maison_Schiaparelli \"Maison Schiaparelli\") [Franck Sorbier](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Franck_Sorbier \"Franck Sorbier\") [Giambattista Valli](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Giambattista_Valli \"Giambattista Valli\") [Alexandre Vauthier](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Alexandre_Vauthier \"Alexandre Vauthier\") |\n| See also | [List of grand couturiers](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/List_of_grand_couturiers \"List of grand couturiers\") |\n\n‹ The [template](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Help:Template \"Help:Template\") below (*[Authority control (arts)](https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Template:Authority_control_\\(arts\\) \"Template:Authority control (arts)\")*) is being considered for deletion. 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Boilerpipe Text	French fashion designer (1889–1958) Lucien Lelong ( French: [lysjɛ̃ ləlɔ̃] ; 11 October 1889 – 11 May 1958) [ 1 ] was a French couturier who was prominent from the 1920s to the 1940s. His couture fashion house was one of the largest in Paris in the interwar period, [ 2 ] : 76 and Lelong was an important figure in the management of the French fashion industry during World War II . Early life, education and war service [ edit ] Lelong was born in Paris to Arthur Camille Joseph Lelong and Éléonore Marie Lambelet, couturiers and owners of a fashion store called A.E. Lelong on Place de la Madeleine . [ 1 ] [ 3 ] He attended the École des hautes études commerciales in Paris between 1911 and 1913, [ 1 ] first studying political science but graduating with a business degree. [ 3 ] He also learned about fabric from his uncle, a fabric merchant, [ 1 ] but received no formal fashion design training. [ 3 ] The first Lelong designs were featured in Vogue magazine in 1913. [ 4 ] Lelong was drafted for military service in the First World War in 1914, interrupting the creation and presentation of his first collection. [ 1 ] He served as an intelligence officer , spent time in the trenches, and suffered shrapnel wounds to his face. [ 3 ] He was awarded the Croix de Guerre . [ 2 ] : 76 He returned to the family business in 1918 and by 1921, the business employed 17 people and was renamed 'Lucien Lelong'. [ 1 ] In the following years, Lucien Lelong was recognised as an up-and-coming fashion house, alongside those of Jean Patou and Edward Molyneux . [ 1 ] Lelong would offer a discount to society ladies who would agree to be photographed wearing his designs. [ 3 ] In 1924, Lelong moved his fashion house to Avenue Matignon [ fr ] in Paris' 8th arrondissment and began creating perfume . [ 1 ] Between 1925 and 1952, he created and sold over 40 perfumes. [ 1 ] Lelong's early perfumes were called A , B , C , J and N ; their simple names "created an aura of mystery and romance". [ 5 ] His perfume packaging was initially purely functional but, as demand increased, Lelong began to recognise the value of decorative packaging. [ 5 ] Lelong designed most of his own perfume bottles, taking inspiration from fabrics, garlands , feathers and modern architecture . [ 5 ] For his perfume Ting-a-Ling , Lelong designed a gold bottle with six jingle bells . [ 5 ] In 1926, Lelong was made a Knight of the Legion of Honour , [ 1 ] and in 1928 he was inducted as a committee member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture , [ 2 ] : 79 an organisation of French haute couture fashion houses. In the 1930s, in response to the Great Depression , Lelong was a pioneer of the concept of ready-to-wear luxury clothing . [ 6 ] [ 1 ] His first ready-to-wear collection was called Robes d'Edition and was released in 1934. [ 2 ] : 80 Vionnet and Patou had both tried similar ventures before, but neither had lasted more than a few months. [ 2 ] : 80 Robes d'Edition filled a niche in between manufactured and bespoke clothing; designs were made in five sizes with alterations being able to be added to the garment's cost. [ 2 ] : 80 Only a limited number of reproductions were made, with designs being frequently introduced and retired; in an interview with Vogue , Lelong likened the idea to that of a limited edition of a book. [ 2 ] : 80 By the autumn of 1934, the Edition range alone employed 600 workers year-round. [ 2 ] : 80 The range was discontinued in 1940 after the German occupation of Paris. [ 7 ] : 121 In 1937, Lelong was unanimously elected president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture . [ 3 ] [ 8 ] In 1938, he oversaw the renegotiation of collective agreements with the Chambre Syndicale's unions, primarily the socialist GCT and Christian labour unions. [ 2 ] : 105 He would serve as president until 1945. [ 8 ] French fashion was a major exporter to the US and Lelong had excellent relationships with American firms. [ 2 ] : 77–78 In 1925, Lelong was offered a study trip to the US by the French Ministries of Fine Arts, Public Instruction , and Labour . [ 2 ] : 78 He used the trip to visit American factories, met labour experts in Washington, DC , and observe American women in order to produce garments that met their needs. [ 2 ] : 78 He opened a perfume branch in Chicago in 1928, [ 1 ] and by July 1929 had leased a New York office at 657 Fifth Avenue to serve as an East Coast headquarters and manage Lelong's sales to US department stores . [ 2 ] : 79 Lelong's 1931 visit to America was organised and publicised by Edward Bernays ; Lelong talked about perfume and design on CBS and was invited by Vogue editor Edna Woolman Chase to a Fashion Group meeting. [ 2 ] : 79 Lelong traveled to America in October 1935 on a study trip commissioned by Pierre Laval , then Minister for Foreign Affairs , to report on working conditions in the American clothing industry. [ 1 ] [ 2 ] : 83 In the winter of 1937, Lelong visited Hollywood which was "an emerging fashion city" at the time. [ 2 ] : 100 War-time activities [ edit ] The Second World War had "an immediate effect on Paris fashion", and many houses closed, including Mainbocher , Charles James , and Schiaparelli . [ 3 ] Lelong was mobilised on 28 August 1939, at the same time as many other members of the fashion industry, as a lieutenant in the 3rd Cuirassier Regiment . [ 7 ] : 110 Lelong closed the Chamber Syndicale's school and placed Chamber secretary Daniel Gorin in charge of the organisation. [ 7 ] : 111 Ten days after being mobilised, Lelong was demobilised and sent back to Paris; American journalist Kathleen Cannell suggested that this was on the orders of the French government. [ 7 ] : 111 On 12 September, Lelong called a committee meeting where the potential for resuming work was discussed; one of the most important dilemmas was how to keep the sector's 25,000 workers employed and avoid redundancies. [ 7 ] : 111 In a telegram to Edna Woolman Chase , Lelong wrote: "Am doing utmost to find financial and commercial solution. Allowing for the reopening of houses and the living of thousands of women." [ 7 ] : 111 He negotiated with the Ministry of Labor and the Military Commissariat to provide work for unemployed workers making military uniforms, carryalls and blankets. [ 7 ] : 113 Fashion houses began to assess which other cities would be best to relocate to: Cannes , Vichy , or Biarritz , where most houses already had branches. [ 7 ] : 111 The haute couture industry also faced significant financial pressures. By early October 1939, 90% of houses were closed with the remaining 10% working with reduced staff. [ 7 ] : 112 Couturiers had to keep paying taxes, rent and wages but were unable to recover credit extended to their private customers which amounted to a value of 100 million francs . [ 7 ] : 112 Lelong expected that the lost profits from the autumn collections, the sharp reduction in clients, and the loss of foreign markets meant that fashion houses would not be able to turn a profit and lobbied the government to extend tax deadlines and give preferential terms to couturiers. [ 7 ] : 112 For unemployed workers who were owed redundancy pay, Lelong negotiated a delay citing the exceptional circumstances. [ 7 ] : 112 The French government then announced that it was important that civilian activities continued as normal and that the couture business should reopen since it was an important export industry. [ 7 ] : 112 In a meeting of the Chamber Syndicale on 6 October, Lelong said that "opening one's house can be considered an act of national duty ". [ 7 ] : 112 Midseason collections were organised and, despite Lelong's reluctance, he showed thirty silhouettes in a show in early November. [ 7 ] : 112 In a Christmas show, Lelong presented "his first wartime collection" with designs in red, white and blue . [ 7 ] : 112 In March 1940, when the government introduced price regulation and rationing , haute couture was "left untouched". [ 7 ] : 115 The Chamber Syndicale in April gave Lelong full responsibility for the industry during the war and he was appointed to a post in the Ministry of Information as head of a unit in charge of developing French luxury business during wartime. [ 7 ] : 115 He announced that "no amount of terrorizing by the Nazis would deter them from showing their midseason collections and carrying on." [ 7 ] : 115 A German tank passing a Louis Vuitton store during the occupation of Paris. Fashion houses which acquiesced to Nazi rules were allowed to stay open during the occupation. When Nazi Germany occupied Paris in June 1940, German forces took over the Chambre Syndicale's office and seized its files with the intention of relocating Paris' fashion industry to Berlin or Vienna to create a global fashion centre which was more coordinated with Nazi ideals . [ 3 ] In August 1940, Lelong presented plans to the Chambre Syndicale supporting widespread industry reorganisation along corporatist lines in order to work within the German occupation decrees. [ 7 ] : 120–121 The law of 16 August 1940 created comités d'organisation which would oversee production and resource distribution, [ 9 ] effectively moving occupied France to a state-controlled economy. [ 7 ] : 122 Lelong was appointed to chair Group I, a group which covered the couture sector within the new committee system of industry set up under the Ministry of Production. [ 7 ] : 122 Between the summer of 1940 and early 1942, Lelong did not call any further meetings of the Chambre Syndicale. [ 7 ] : 122 Lelong persuaded the Nazis to keep the industry in Paris, [ 10 ] arguing that any attempt at relocation would kill the industry due to its fragile supply chains ; his fashion house was one of those allowed to stay open during the occupation and largely catered to the wives and daughters of Nazi officers who were some of the only people allowed to buy haute couture garments. [ 3 ] In January 1942, Lelong said that, during the war, "our single preoccupation was to keep Paris Couture alive despite the innumerable difficulties" and that his work with both the French and occupation governments was "inspired by our only concern of defending the profession's interests." [ 7 ] : 124 The occupying authorities sought to export haute couture for raw materials from abroad and in 1942, Forbes describes Lelong's position during the war as "working in a lot of grey areas", [ 3 ] and after the war, Lelong was investigated as a Nazi collaborator . However, the combination of New York's fashion press being "eager to restore the good name of French fashion" and the French government wanting to revive fashion as an important export industry meant that no couturiers faced formal collaboration charges. [ 11 ] Lelong was acquitted of being a collaborator , with a judge overseeing his case ruling that his cooperation was minimal and had been done to save French workers (12,000 of whom worked in the couture industry), [ 10 ] Jewish lives and protect French culture . [ 3 ] Post-liberation and Théâtre de la Mode [ edit ] After France was liberated in 1944, living conditions did not immediately improve. [ 12 ] : 130 Raoul Dautry , the Minister of Reconstruction and Urban Development , asked Robert Ricci (the son of Nina Ricci ) to come up with a fundraising idea to help with war efforts. [ 13 ] Ricci went to Lelong to discuss ideas and came up with an exhibit of fashion dolls: the Théâtre de la Mode . [ 13 ] The dolls were 27 inches (69 cm) high wire figures with plaster faces by Joan Rebull [ es ] , a Catalan sculptor. [ 13 ] They were dressed in garments designed by 40 couturiers (including Balenciaga , Schiaparelli , Paquin , Patou , Hermès , Madame Grès and Lelong himself) and were arranged together in different settings designed by Chambre Syndicale members as well as Jean Cocteau and Christian Bérard . [ 13 ] Dolls were used so that less material was needed; Lelong said that the exhibition was "not intended to represent luxury or lavish use of materials; it is instead a proof of ingenuity and good taste." [ 13 ] The exhibition toured internationally and was seen to be a great success. [ 13 ] Lelong himself did not create the garments that bore his label; instead, he employed designers who worked for him to turn his ideas into clothing. [ 3 ] "He did not design himself, but worked through his designers," wrote Christian Dior , who was a member of the Lelong team from 1941 until 1946, during which time he created the collections in collaboration with Pierre Balmain . [ 14 ] "Nevertheless," Dior continued, "in the course of his career as couturier his collections retained a style which was really his own and greatly resembled him." [ 14 ] Other designers who worked for Lelong included Nadine Robinson and Hubert de Givenchy . [ 3 ] Lelong used the adjective 'kinetic' to describe the silhouette that he developed from 1925 onwards, which succeeded the garçonne style of the early 1920s. [ 2 ] : 76 [ 1 ] According to Lelong the silhouette was meant to "[give] the wearer a pleasing appearance while in motion". [ 2 ] : 76 Among Lelong's clients were Marie Duhamel, Nora Barnacle (wife of James Joyce), Jeanne Ternisien (wife of the banker Georges Nelze), the Duchess de la Rochefoucauld , Greta Garbo , Gloria Swanson , Colette , and Rose Kennedy . [ citation needed ] In 1935, Lelong designed the wedding dress of Josée Laval for her wedding to René de Chambrun . [ 2 ] : 83 Retirement and death [ edit ] Lelong's health deteriorated in 1947 and caused the end of his career; [ 3 ] he retired from couture in August 1948, leaving his fall collection unfinished, [ 15 ] and only continued his perfume business. [ 16 ] He married for the third time in 1954, to Sanda Dancovici, after having retired in 1952. They lived together near Biarritz in the commune of Anglet , at the Domaine de Courbois, which they restored at great expense. They played golf with the Duke of Windsor and held receptions at the estate. They had a daughter, Christine. Lelong died from complications from a stroke in May 1958 while visiting Anglet, France . [ 3 ] Lelong's brother Pierre ran a French textile firm called Soieries Péhel which shared Lelong's New York offices; the two brothers often traveled to America together. [ 2 ] : 79 Lelong was married three times. His wives were: Anne-Marie Audoy (1899-1935), whom he married in 1919 and divorced in 1927. They had one daughter, Nicole (born 1920), who became the directrice of her father's fashion house in 1947; she was also the namesake of his 1938 lipstick introduction, Nicole Pink. Anne-Marie Lelong, who returned to her maiden name after the Lelongs' divorce, married Baron Bertrand Clauzel in 1930. Sanda Annette Dancovici (1919-2001), an actress, whom he married in 1954; she was the daughter of Mircea Danovici. After Lelong's death she married, in 1959, French journalist Maurice Goudeket , the widower of Colette . [ 17 ] Hamish Bowles called Lelong the "fore-father of today's fashion industry titans". [ 6 ] Pieces by Lelong are included in several museum collections including those of the Metropolitan Museum of Art , [ 8 ] the V&A Museum , [ 18 ] the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum , [ 19 ] and Los Angeles County Museum of Art . [ 20 ] Vivien Leigh 's 1940s embroidered Lelong jacket is in the collection of the Fashion Museum, Bath . [ 21 ] The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York held an exhibition of Lelong's work in 2006 titled Modern Master: Lucien Lelong, Couturier (1918-1948) . [ 6 ] Lelong was played by John Malkovich in Apple TV+ 's The New Look in 2024. [ 10 ]
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[o]") Pages for logged out editors [learn more](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Introduction) - [Contributions](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:MyContributions "A list of edits made from this IP address [y]") - [Talk](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:MyTalk "Discussion about edits from this IP address [n]") ## Contents move to sidebar hide - [(Top)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong) - [1 Early life, education and war service](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Early_life,_education_and_war_service) - [2 Fashion career](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Fashion_career) Toggle Fashion career subsection - [2\.1 Work in America](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Work_in_America) - [2\.2 War-time activities](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#War-time_activities) - [2\.2.1 Pre-occupation](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Pre-occupation) - [2\.2.2 Under occupation](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Under_occupation) - [2\.3 Post-liberation and Théâtre de la Mode](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Post-liberation_and_Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre_de_la_Mode) - [2\.4 Design](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Design) - [2\.5 Clientele](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Clientele) - [3 Retirement and death](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Retirement_and_death) - [4 Personal life](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Personal_life) Toggle Personal life subsection - [4\.1 Marriages](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Marriages) - [5 Legacy](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#Legacy) - [6 References](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#References) Toggle the table of contents # Lucien Lelong 9 languages - [Беларуская](https://be.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9B%D1%8E%D1%81%D1%8C%D0%B5%D0%BD_%D0%9B%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B3 "Люсьен Лелонг – Belarusian") - [Deutsch](https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong "Lucien Lelong – German") - [Euskara](https://eu.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong "Lucien Lelong – Basque") - [Français](https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong "Lucien Lelong – French") - [Italiano](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong "Lucien Lelong – Italian") - [Nederlands](https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong "Lucien Lelong – Dutch") - [Русский](https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9B%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B3,_%D0%9B%D1%8E%D1%81%D1%8C%D0%B5%D0%BD "Лелонг, Люсьен – Russian") - [Suomi](https://fi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong "Lucien Lelong – Finnish") - [Українська](https://uk.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9B%D1%8E%D1%81%D1%8C%D1%94%D0%BD_%D0%9B%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B3 "Люсьєн Лелонг – Ukrainian") [Edit links](https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Special:EntityPage/Q2572377#sitelinks-wikipedia "Edit interlanguage links") - [Article](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong "View the content page [c]") - [Talk](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Lucien_Lelong "Discuss improvements to the content page [t]") English - [Read](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong) - [Edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit "Edit this page [e]") - [View history](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=history "Past revisions of this page [h]") Tools Tools move to sidebar hide Actions - [Read](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong) - [Edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit "Edit this page [e]") - [View history](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=history) General - [What links here](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:WhatLinksHere/Lucien_Lelong "List of all English Wikipedia pages containing links to this page [j]") - [Related changes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:RecentChangesLinked/Lucien_Lelong "Recent changes in pages linked from this page [k]") - [Upload file](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:File_Upload_Wizard "Upload files [u]") - [Permanent link](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&oldid=1279417514 "Permanent link to this revision of this page") - [Page information](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=info "More information about this page") - [Cite this page](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:CiteThisPage&page=Lucien_Lelong&id=1279417514&wpFormIdentifier=titleform "Information on how to cite this page") - [Get shortened URL](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:UrlShortener&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FLucien_Lelong) - [Download QR code](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:QrCode&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FLucien_Lelong) Print/export - [Download as PDF](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:DownloadAsPdf&page=Lucien_Lelong&action=show-download-screen "Download this page as a PDF file") - [Printable version](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&printable=yes "Printable version of this page [p]") In other projects - [Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lucien_Lelong) - [Wikidata item](https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Special:EntityPage/Q2572377 "Structured data on this page hosted by Wikidata [g]") Appearance move to sidebar hide From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia French fashion designer (1889–1958) \| Lucien Lelong \| \| \|---\|---\| \| [![Photograph of Lucien Lelong wearing a suit and hat](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/Lucien_Lelong_in_1925.tif/lossy-page1-250px-Lucien_Lelong_in_1925.tif.jpg)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Lucien_Lelong_in_1925.tif)Lelong in 1925 \| \| \| Born \| (1889-10-11)October 11, 1889 [Paris](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris "Paris"), France \| \| Died \| May 11, 1958(1958-05-11) (aged 68) [Anglet](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglet "Anglet"), France \| \| Alma mater \| [École des hautes études commerciales](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HEC_Paris "HEC Paris") \| \| Spouses \| Anne-Marie Audoy ( m. 1919; div. 1927\) [Natalia Pavlovna Paley](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natalia_Pavlovna_Paley "Natalia Pavlovna Paley") ( m. 1927; div. 1937\) Sanda Annette Dancovici ( m. 1954\) \| \| Signature \| \| \| [![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/91/Lucien_Lelong_-_Signature.jpg/250px-Lucien_Lelong_-_Signature.jpg)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Lucien_Lelong_-_Signature.jpg) \| \| Lucien Lelong (French: [\[lysjɛ̃ ləlɔ̃\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:IPA/French "Help:IPA/French"); 11 October 1889 – 11 May 1958)[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) was a French [couturier](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Couturier "Couturier") who was prominent from the 1920s to the 1940s. His couture fashion house was one of the largest in Paris in the interwar period,[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 76 and Lelong was an important figure in the management of the French fashion industry during [World War II](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_War_II "World War II"). ## Early life, education and war service \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=1 "Edit section: Early life, education and war service")\] Lelong was born in Paris to Arthur Camille Joseph Lelong and Éléonore Marie Lambelet, couturiers and owners of a fashion store called A.E. Lelong on [Place de la Madeleine](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Place_de_la_Madeleine "Place de la Madeleine").[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1)[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) He attended the [École des hautes études commerciales](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HEC_Paris "HEC Paris") in Paris between 1911 and 1913,[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) first studying [political science](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Political_science "Political science") but graduating with a business degree.[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) He also learned about fabric from his uncle, a fabric merchant,[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) but received no formal fashion design training.[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) The first Lelong designs were featured in [Vogue](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogue_\(magazine\) "Vogue (magazine)") magazine in 1913.[\[4\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-4) Lelong was [drafted for military service](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conscription_in_France "Conscription in France") in the [First World War](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_World_War "First World War") in 1914, interrupting the creation and presentation of his first collection.[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) He served as an [intelligence officer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intelligence_officer "Intelligence officer"), spent time in the trenches, and suffered shrapnel wounds to his face.[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) He was awarded the [Croix de Guerre](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Croix_de_Guerre "Croix de Guerre").[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 76 ## Fashion career \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=2 "Edit section: Fashion career")\] He returned to the family business in 1918 and by 1921, the business employed 17 people and was renamed 'Lucien Lelong'.[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) In the following years, Lucien Lelong was recognised as an up-and-coming fashion house, alongside those of [Jean Patou](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patou "Patou") and [Edward Molyneux](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edward_Molyneux "Edward Molyneux").[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) Lelong would offer a discount to society ladies who would agree to be photographed wearing his designs.[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) In 1924, Lelong moved his fashion house to [Avenue Matignon](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Avenue_Matignon&action=edit&redlink=1 "Avenue Matignon (page does not exist)") \[[fr](https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avenue_Matignon "fr:Avenue Matignon")\] in [Paris' 8th arrondissment](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8th_arrondissement_of_Paris "8th arrondissement of Paris") and began creating [perfume](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume "Perfume").[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) Between 1925 and 1952, he created and sold over 40 perfumes.[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) Lelong's early perfumes were called A, B, C, J and N; their simple names "created an aura of mystery and romance".[\[5\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-CooperHewitt-5) His perfume packaging was initially purely functional but, as demand increased, Lelong began to recognise the value of decorative packaging.[\[5\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-CooperHewitt-5) Lelong designed most of his own perfume bottles, taking inspiration from fabrics, [garlands](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garland "Garland"), [feathers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feather "Feather") and [modern architecture](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modern_architecture "Modern architecture").[\[5\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-CooperHewitt-5) For his perfume Ting-a-Ling, Lelong designed a gold bottle with six [jingle bells](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jingle_bell "Jingle bell").[\[5\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-CooperHewitt-5) In 1926, Lelong was made a [Knight of the Legion of Honour](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Legion_of_Honour "Legion of Honour"),[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) and in 1928 he was inducted as a committee member of the [Chambre Syndicale de la Couture](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chambre_Syndicale_de_la_Couture "Chambre Syndicale de la Couture"),[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79 an organisation of French haute couture fashion houses. In the 1930s, in response to the [Great Depression](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Depression "Great Depression"), Lelong was a pioneer of the concept of [ready-to-wear](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ready-to-wear "Ready-to-wear") [luxury clothing](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luxury_goods "Luxury goods").[\[6\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Bowles-6)[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) His first ready-to-wear collection was called Robes d'Edition and was released in 1934.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80 [Vionnet](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vionnet_\(company\) "Vionnet (company)") and [Patou](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patou "Patou") had both tried similar ventures before, but neither had lasted more than a few months.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80 Robes d'Edition filled a niche in between manufactured and bespoke clothing; designs were made in five sizes with alterations being able to be added to the garment's cost.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80 Only a limited number of reproductions were made, with designs being frequently introduced and retired; in an interview with [Vogue](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogue_Magazine "Vogue Magazine"), Lelong likened the idea to that of a limited edition of a book.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80 By the autumn of 1934, the Edition range alone employed 600 workers year-round.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 80 The range was discontinued in 1940 after the German occupation of Paris.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 121 In 1937, Lelong was unanimously elected president of the [Chambre Syndicale de la Couture](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chambre_Syndicale_de_la_Couture "Chambre Syndicale de la Couture").[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3)[\[8\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-MET-8) In 1938, he oversaw the renegotiation of [collective agreements](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collective_agreement "Collective agreement") with the Chambre Syndicale's unions, primarily the socialist [GCT](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Confederation_of_Labour_\(France\) "General Confederation of Labour (France)") and Christian labour unions.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 105 He would serve as president until 1945.[\[8\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-MET-8) ### Work in America \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=3 "Edit section: Work in America")\] French fashion was a major exporter to the US and Lelong had excellent relationships with American firms.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 77–78 In 1925, Lelong was offered a study trip to the US by the French Ministries of Fine Arts, [Public Instruction](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ministry_of_National_Education_\(France\) "Ministry of National Education (France)"), and [Labour](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minister_of_Labour,_Employment_and_Economic_Inclusion_\(France\) "Minister of Labour, Employment and Economic Inclusion (France)").[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 78 He used the trip to visit American factories, met labour experts in [Washington, DC](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Washington,_DC "Washington, DC"), and observe American women in order to produce garments that met their needs.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 78 He opened a perfume branch in [Chicago](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicago "Chicago") in 1928,[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) and by July 1929 had leased a [New York](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_City "New York City") office at [657 Fifth Avenue](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifth_Avenue "Fifth Avenue") to serve as an [East Coast](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/East_Coast_of_the_United_States "East Coast of the United States") headquarters and manage Lelong's sales to US [department stores](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Department_store "Department store").[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79 Lelong's 1931 visit to America was organised and publicised by [Edward Bernays](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edward_Bernays "Edward Bernays"); Lelong talked about perfume and design on [CBS](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CBS "CBS") and was invited by [Vogue](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogue_Magazine "Vogue Magazine") editor [Edna Woolman Chase](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edna_Woolman_Chase "Edna Woolman Chase") to a [Fashion Group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_Group_International "Fashion Group International") meeting.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79 Lelong traveled to America in October 1935 on a study trip commissioned by [Pierre Laval](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Laval "Pierre Laval"), then [Minister for Foreign Affairs](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ministry_for_Europe_and_Foreign_Affairs_\(France\) "Ministry for Europe and Foreign Affairs (France)"), to report on working conditions in the American clothing industry.[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1)[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 83 In the winter of 1937, Lelong visited [Hollywood](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hollywood,_Los_Angeles "Hollywood, Los Angeles") which was "an emerging fashion city" at the time.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 100 ### War-time activities \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=4 "Edit section: War-time activities")\] #### Pre-occupation \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=5 "Edit section: Pre-occupation")\] The [Second World War](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_World_War "Second World War") had "an immediate effect on Paris fashion", and many houses closed, including [Mainbocher](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mainbocher "Mainbocher"), [Charles James](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_James_\(designer\) "Charles James (designer)"), and [Schiaparelli](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maison_Schiaparelli "Maison Schiaparelli").[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) Lelong was [mobilised](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobilization "Mobilization") on 28 August 1939, at the same time as many other members of the fashion industry, as a [lieutenant](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lieutenant "Lieutenant") in the [3rd Cuirassier Regiment](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3rd_Cuirassier_Regiment_\(France\) "3rd Cuirassier Regiment (France)").[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 110 Lelong closed the Chamber Syndicale's school and placed Chamber secretary Daniel Gorin in charge of the organisation.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111 Ten days after being mobilised, Lelong was demobilised and sent back to Paris; American journalist [Kathleen Cannell](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kathleen_Eaton_Cannell "Kathleen Eaton Cannell") suggested that this was on the orders of the French government.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111 On 12 September, Lelong called a committee meeting where the potential for resuming work was discussed; one of the most important dilemmas was how to keep the sector's 25,000 workers employed and avoid redundancies.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111 In a [telegram](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telegram "Telegram") to [Edna Woolman Chase](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edna_Woolman_Chase "Edna Woolman Chase"), Lelong wrote: "Am doing utmost to find financial and commercial solution. Allowing for the reopening of houses and the living of thousands of women."[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111 He negotiated with the Ministry of Labor and the [Military Commissariat](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Military_commissariat "Military commissariat") to provide work for unemployed workers making military uniforms, [carryalls](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duffel_bag "Duffel bag") and blankets.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 113 Fashion houses began to assess which other cities would be best to relocate to: [Cannes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannes "Cannes"), [Vichy](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vichy "Vichy"), or [Biarritz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biarritz "Biarritz"), where most houses already had branches.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 111 The haute couture industry also faced significant financial pressures. By early October 1939, 90% of houses were closed with the remaining 10% working with reduced staff.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112 Couturiers had to keep paying taxes, rent and wages but were unable to recover credit extended to their private customers which amounted to a value of 100 million [francs](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franc "Franc").[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112 Lelong expected that the lost profits from the autumn collections, the sharp reduction in clients, and the loss of foreign markets meant that fashion houses would not be able to turn a profit and lobbied the government to extend tax deadlines and give preferential terms to couturiers.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112 For unemployed workers who were owed redundancy pay, Lelong negotiated a delay citing the exceptional circumstances.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112 The French government then announced that it was important that civilian activities [continued as normal](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Business_as_usual_\(business\) "Business as usual (business)") and that the couture business should reopen since it was an important export industry.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112 In a meeting of the Chamber Syndicale on 6 October, Lelong said that "opening one's house can be considered an act of [national duty](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patriotic_duty "Patriotic duty")".[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112 Midseason collections were organised and, despite Lelong's reluctance, he showed thirty silhouettes in a show in early November.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112 In a Christmas show, Lelong presented "his first wartime collection" with designs in [red, white and blue](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_of_France "Flag of France").[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 112 In March 1940, when the government introduced price regulation and [rationing](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rationing "Rationing"), haute couture was "left untouched".[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 115 The Chamber Syndicale in April gave Lelong full responsibility for the industry during the war and he was appointed to a post in the [Ministry of Information](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ministry_of_Information_\(France\) "Ministry of Information (France)") as head of a unit in charge of developing French luxury business during wartime.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 115 He announced that "no amount of terrorizing by the Nazis would deter them from showing their midseason collections and carrying on."[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 115 #### Under occupation \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=6 "Edit section: Under occupation")\] [![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/62/Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-256-1234-06%2C_Paris%2C_Wehrmachtsparade.jpg/250px-Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-256-1234-06%2C_Paris%2C_Wehrmachtsparade.jpg)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-256-1234-06,_Paris,_Wehrmachtsparade.jpg) A German tank passing a [Louis Vuitton](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Vuitton "Louis Vuitton") store during the occupation of Paris. Fashion houses which acquiesced to Nazi rules were allowed to stay open during the occupation. When [Nazi Germany](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nazi_Germany "Nazi Germany") [occupied Paris](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris_in_World_War_II "Paris in World War II") in June 1940, German forces took over the Chambre Syndicale's office and seized its files with the intention of relocating Paris' fashion industry to [Berlin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berlin "Berlin") or [Vienna](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vienna "Vienna") to create a global fashion centre which was [more coordinated with Nazi ideals](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gleichschaltung "Gleichschaltung").[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) In August 1940, Lelong presented plans to the Chambre Syndicale supporting widespread industry reorganisation along [corporatist](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corporatism "Corporatism") lines in order to work within the German occupation decrees.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 120–121 The law of 16 August 1940 created [comités d'organisation](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comit%C3%A9s_d%27organisation "Comités d'organisation") which would oversee production and resource distribution,[\[9\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-9) effectively moving occupied France to a state-controlled economy.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 122 Lelong was appointed to chair Group I, a group which covered the couture sector within the new committee system of industry set up under the Ministry of Production.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 122 Between the summer of 1940 and early 1942, Lelong did not call any further meetings of the Chambre Syndicale.[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 122 Lelong persuaded the Nazis to keep the industry in Paris,[\[10\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BI-10) arguing that any attempt at relocation would kill the industry due to its fragile [supply chains](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supply_chain "Supply chain"); his fashion house was one of those allowed to stay open during the occupation and largely catered to the wives and daughters of Nazi officers who were some of the only people allowed to buy haute couture garments.[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) In January 1942, Lelong said that, during the war, "our single preoccupation was to keep Paris Couture alive despite the innumerable difficulties" and that his work with both the French and occupation governments was "inspired by our only concern of defending the profession's interests."[\[7\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP4-7): 124 The occupying authorities sought to export haute couture for raw materials from abroad and in 1942, [Forbes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forbes "Forbes") describes Lelong's position during the war as "working in a lot of grey areas",[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) and after the war, Lelong was investigated as a [Nazi collaborator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collaboration_with_Nazi_Germany_and_Fascist_Italy "Collaboration with Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy"). However, the combination of New York's fashion press being "eager to restore the good name of French fashion" and the French government wanting to revive fashion as an important [export industry](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trade_promotion_\(international_trade\) "Trade promotion (international trade)") meant that no couturiers faced formal collaboration charges.[\[11\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-11) Lelong was [acquitted of being a collaborator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89puration_l%C3%A9gale "Épuration légale"), with a judge overseeing his case ruling that his cooperation was minimal and had been done to save French workers (12,000 of whom worked in the couture industry),[\[10\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BI-10) Jewish lives and protect [French culture](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_culture "French culture").[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) ### Post-liberation and Théâtre de la Mode \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=7 "Edit section: Post-liberation and Théâtre de la Mode")\] See also: [Théâtre de la Mode](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre_de_la_Mode "Théâtre de la Mode") After France was liberated in 1944, living conditions did not immediately improve.[\[12\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-IM-12): 130 [Raoul Dautry](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raoul_Dautry "Raoul Dautry"), the [Minister of Reconstruction and Urban Development](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minister_of_Reconstruction_and_Urban_Development "Minister of Reconstruction and Urban Development"), asked Robert Ricci (the son of [Nina Ricci](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nina_Ricci_\(designer\) "Nina Ricci (designer)")) to come up with a fundraising idea to help with war efforts.[\[13\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) Ricci went to Lelong to discuss ideas and came up with an exhibit of fashion dolls: the [Théâtre de la Mode](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre_de_la_Mode "Théâtre de la Mode").[\[13\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) The dolls were 27 inches (69 cm) high [wire figures](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armature_\(sculpture\) "Armature (sculpture)") with plaster faces by [Joan Rebull](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Joan_Rebull&action=edit&redlink=1 "Joan Rebull (page does not exist)") \[[es](https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joan_Rebull "es:Joan Rebull")\], a [Catalan](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalans "Catalans") sculptor.[\[13\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) They were dressed in garments designed by 40 couturiers (including [Balenciaga](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga "Cristóbal Balenciaga"), [Schiaparelli](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparelli "Elsa Schiaparelli"), [Paquin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeanne_Paquin "Jeanne Paquin"), [Patou](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Patou "Jean Patou"), [Hermès](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s "Hermès"), [Madame Grès](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madame_Gr%C3%A8s "Madame Grès") and Lelong himself) and were arranged together in different settings designed by Chambre Syndicale members as well as [Jean Cocteau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Cocteau "Jean Cocteau") and [Christian Bérard](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christian_B%C3%A9rard "Christian Bérard").[\[13\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) Dolls were used so that less material was needed; Lelong said that the exhibition was "not intended to represent luxury or lavish use of materials; it is instead a proof of ingenuity and good taste."[\[13\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) The exhibition toured internationally and was seen to be a great success.[\[13\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BV-13) ### Design \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=8 "Edit section: Design")\] Lelong himself did not create the garments that bore his label; instead, he employed designers who worked for him to turn his ideas into clothing.[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) "He did not design himself, but worked through his designers," wrote [Christian Dior](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christian_Dior "Christian Dior"), who was a member of the Lelong team from 1941 until 1946, during which time he created the collections in collaboration with [Pierre Balmain](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Balmain "Pierre Balmain").[\[14\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Dior-14) "Nevertheless," Dior continued, "in the course of his career as couturier his collections retained a style which was really his own and greatly resembled him."[\[14\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Dior-14) Other designers who worked for Lelong included [Nadine Robinson](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Nadine_Robinson&action=edit&redlink=1 "Nadine Robinson (page does not exist)") and [Hubert de Givenchy](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hubert_de_Givenchy "Hubert de Givenchy").[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) Lelong used the adjective 'kinetic' to describe the silhouette that he developed from 1925 onwards, which succeeded the [garçonne](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flapper "Flapper") style of the early 1920s.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 76 [\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-AKL-1) According to Lelong the silhouette was meant to "\[give\] the wearer a pleasing appearance while in motion".[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 76 ### Clientele \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=9 "Edit section: Clientele")\] Among Lelong's clients were Marie Duhamel, [Nora Barnacle](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nora_Barnacle "Nora Barnacle") (wife of James Joyce), [Jeanne Ternisien](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jeanne_Ternisien&action=edit&redlink=1 "Jeanne Ternisien (page does not exist)") (wife of the banker Georges Nelze), the [Duchess de la Rochefoucauld](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duc_de_La_Rochefoucauld "Duc de La Rochefoucauld"), [Greta Garbo](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greta_Garbo "Greta Garbo"), [Gloria Swanson](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gloria_Swanson "Gloria Swanson"), [Colette](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colette "Colette"), and [Rose Kennedy](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rose_Kennedy "Rose Kennedy").\[[citation needed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed "Wikipedia:Citation needed")\] In 1935, Lelong designed the [wedding dress](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wedding_dress "Wedding dress") of [Josée Laval](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jos%C3%A9e_Laval "Josée Laval") for her wedding to [René de Chambrun](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ren%C3%A9_de_Chambrun "René de Chambrun").[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 83 ## Retirement and death \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=10 "Edit section: Retirement and death")\] Lelong's health deteriorated in 1947 and caused the end of his career;[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) he retired from couture in August 1948, leaving his fall collection unfinished,[\[15\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-15) and only continued his perfume business.[\[16\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-16) He married for the third time in 1954, to Sanda Dancovici, after having retired in 1952. They lived together near [Biarritz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biarritz "Biarritz") in the commune of [Anglet](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglet "Anglet"), at the Domaine de Courbois, which they restored at great expense. They played golf with the [Duke of Windsor](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edward_VIII "Edward VIII") and held receptions at the estate. They had a daughter, Christine. Lelong died from complications from a [stroke](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stroke "Stroke") in May 1958 while visiting [Anglet, France](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglet,_France "Anglet, France").[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) ## Personal life \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=11 "Edit section: Personal life")\] Lelong's brother Pierre ran a French textile firm called Soieries Péhel which shared Lelong's New York offices; the two brothers often traveled to America together.[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79 ### Marriages \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=12 "Edit section: Marriages")\] Lelong was married three times. His wives were: - Anne-Marie Audoy (1899-1935), whom he married in 1919 and divorced in 1927. They had one daughter, Nicole (born 1920), who became the directrice of her father's fashion house in 1947; she was also the namesake of his 1938 lipstick introduction, Nicole Pink. Anne-Marie Lelong, who returned to her maiden name after the Lelongs' divorce, married Baron Bertrand Clauzel in 1930. - Princess [Natalie Paley](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natalia_Pavlovna_Paley "Natalia Pavlovna Paley") (1905–1981), who had worked as a saleswoman in the Lelong perfume department and became one of the house's fashion models in the 1930s.[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) They married on 10 August 1927. The couple separated in 1931,[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79 and divorced in 1936.[\[3\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Forbes-3) After splitting from Lelong, she pursued a career in acting in [Hollywood](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinema_of_the_United_States "Cinema of the United States").[\[2\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-VP3-2): 79 She was a daughter of [Grand Duke Paul Alexandrovich of Russia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Duke_Paul_Alexandrovich_of_Russia "Grand Duke Paul Alexandrovich of Russia") and his [morganatic](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morganatic "Morganatic") wife, [Olga Karnovich](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olga_Valerianovna_Paley "Olga Valerianovna Paley") and married John Chapman Wilson in 1937. - Sanda Annette Dancovici (1919-2001), an actress, whom he married in 1954; she was the daughter of Mircea Danovici. After Lelong's death she married, in 1959, French journalist [Maurice Goudeket](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Maurice_Goudeket&action=edit&redlink=1 "Maurice Goudeket (page does not exist)"), the widower of [Colette](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colette "Colette").[\[17\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-17) ## Legacy \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=13 "Edit section: Legacy")\] [Hamish Bowles](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamish_Bowles "Hamish Bowles") called Lelong the "fore-father of today's fashion industry titans".[\[6\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Bowles-6) Pieces by Lelong are included in several museum collections including those of the [Metropolitan Museum of Art](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art "Metropolitan Museum of Art"),[\[8\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-MET-8) the [V\&A Museum](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V%26A_Museum "V&A Museum"),[\[18\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-18) the [Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Design_%26_Merchandising_Museum "Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum"),[\[19\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-19) and [Los Angeles County Museum of Art](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Angeles_County_Museum_of_Art "Los Angeles County Museum of Art").[\[20\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-20) [Vivien Leigh](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vivien_Leigh "Vivien Leigh")'s 1940s embroidered Lelong jacket is in the collection of the [Fashion Museum, Bath](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_Museum,_Bath "Fashion Museum, Bath").[\[21\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-21) The [Fashion Institute of Technology](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology "Fashion Institute of Technology") in [New York](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_City "New York City") held an exhibition of Lelong's work in 2006 titled Modern Master: Lucien Lelong, Couturier (1918-1948).[\[6\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-Bowles-6) Lelong was played by [John Malkovich](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Malkovich "John Malkovich") in [Apple TV+](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_TV%2B "Apple TV+")'s [The New Look](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_New_Look_\(TV_series\) "The New Look (TV series)") in 2024.[\[10\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_note-BI-10) ## References \[[edit](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&action=edit&section=14 "Edit section: References")\] 1. ^ [*a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-2) [d](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-3) [e](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-4) [f](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-5) [g](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-6) [h](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-7) [i](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-8) [j](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-9) [k](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-10) [l](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-11) [m](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-12) [n](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-AKL_1-13) Papenberg, Daniela (2021). ["Lelong, Lucien"](https://www.degruyter.com/database/AKL/entry/_6468fe48-60a0-480a-808b-fc6511f02ab7/html). [Allgemeines Künstlerlexikon Online](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allgemeines_K%C3%BCnstlerlexikon "Allgemeines Künstlerlexikon")* (in German). Vol. 84. Berlin: [K. G. Saur](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K._G._Saur_Verlag "K. G. Saur Verlag"). p. 45. Retrieved 27 October 2024. 2. ^ [*a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-2) [d](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-3) [e](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-4) [f](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-5) [g](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-6) [h](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-7) [i](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-8) [j](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-9) [k](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-10) [l](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-11) [m](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-12) [n](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-13) [o](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-14) [p](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-15) [q](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-16) [r](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-17) [s](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-18) [t](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-19) [u](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-20) [v](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP3_2-21) Véronique Pouillard (2021). "3 - Dressing for Crisis". Paris to New York: The Transatlantic Fashion Industry in the Twentieth Century. [Harvard University Press](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harvard_University_Press "Harvard University Press"). pp. 69–106\. [doi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doi_\(identifier\) "Doi (identifier)"):[10\.4159/9780674259485](https://doi.org/10.4159%2F9780674259485). [ISBN](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISBN_\(identifier\) "ISBN (identifier)") [9780674259485](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780674259485 "Special:BookSources/9780674259485") . 3. ^ [a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-2) [d](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-3) [e](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-4) [f](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-5) [g](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-6) [h](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-7) [i](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-8) [j](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-9) [k](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-10) [l](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-11) [m](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-12) [n](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-13) [o](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-14) [p](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-15) [q](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Forbes_3-16) Rachel Elspeth Gross (16 February 2024). ["Lucien Lelong: Christian Dior's Mentor Before The New Look"](https://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelelspethgross/2024/02/16/lucien-lelong-christian-diors-mentor-before-the-new-look/). [Forbes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forbes "Forbes"). Retrieved 27 October 2024. 4. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-4)* Vogue, 15 January 1913, p. 56. 5. ^ [*a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-CooperHewitt_5-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-CooperHewitt_5-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-CooperHewitt_5-2) [d](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-CooperHewitt_5-3) Susan Teichman (3 June 2018). ["Ting-A-Ling, the Perfume Bottle that Sings"](https://www.cooperhewitt.org/2018/06/03/ting-a-ling-the-perfume-bottle-that-sings/). [Cooper Hewitt](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooper_Hewitt,_Smithsonian_Design_Museum "Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum"). Retrieved 3 November 2024. 6. ^ [a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Bowles_6-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Bowles_6-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Bowles_6-2) [Hamish Bowles](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamish_Bowles "Hamish Bowles") (February 2006). "Gilt by association". [Vogue](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogue_Magazine "Vogue Magazine"). Vol. 196, no. 2. p. 148. 7. ^ [a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-2) [d](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-3) [e](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-4) [f](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-5) [g](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-6) [h](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-7) [i](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-8) [j](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-9) [k](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-10) [l](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-11) [m](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-12) [n](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-13) [o](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-14) [p](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-15) [q](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-16) [r](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-17) [s](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-18) [t](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-19) [u](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-20) [v](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-21) [w](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-22) [x](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-VP4_7-23) Véronique Pouillard (2021). "4 - Fashion in World War II". Paris to New York: The Transatlantic Fashion Industry in the Twentieth Century. [Harvard University Press](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harvard_University_Press "Harvard University Press"). pp. 107–137\. [doi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doi_\(identifier\) "Doi (identifier)"):[10\.4159/9780674259485](https://doi.org/10.4159%2F9780674259485). [ISBN](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISBN_\(identifier\) "ISBN (identifier)") [9780674259485](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780674259485 "Special:BookSources/9780674259485") . 8. ^ [a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-MET_8-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-MET_8-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-MET_8-2) ["Evening dress - Lucien Lelong"](https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/138249). [Metropolitan Museum of Art](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art "Metropolitan Museum of Art"). Retrieved 28 October 2024. 9. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-9)* Filippo Occhino; Kim Oosterlinck; Eugene N. White (March 2006). ["How occupied France financed its own exploitation in World War II"](https://www.nber.org/system/files/working_papers/w12137/w12137.pdf) (PDF). [National Bureau of Economic Research](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Bureau_of_Economic_Research "National Bureau of Economic Research"). pp. 15–16. Retrieved 28 October 2024. 10. ^ [*a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BI_10-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BI_10-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BI_10-2) Steven MacKenzie (26 February 2024). "John Malkovich dreams about fabric". [Big Issue](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Issue "Big Issue"). No. 1604. pp. 32–33\. 11. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-11)* Jill Fields (February 2007). "7 - Return of the Repressed (Waist), 1947–1952". An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality. [University of California Press](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/University_of_California_Press "University of California Press"). pp. 256–271\. [ISBN](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISBN_\(identifier\) "ISBN (identifier)") [9780520223691](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780520223691 "Special:BookSources/9780520223691") . 12. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-IM_12-0) Ilaria Maselli (2018). "Lucien Lelong and the Théâtre de la Mode: the Preservation of Haute Couture during Wartime". Almatourism: Journal of Tourism, Culture and Territorial Development. 9 (9): 129–137\. [doi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doi_\(identifier\) "Doi (identifier)"):[10\.6092/issn.2036-5195/8806](https://doi.org/10.6092%2Fissn.2036-5195%2F8806). 13. ^ [*a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-1) [c](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-2) [d](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-3) [e](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-4) [f](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-BV_13-5) Lilah Ramzi (29 February 2024). ["The Fascinating History Behind The Doll Exhibition In The New Look"](https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/the-new-look-doll-exhibition). [British Vogue](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Vogue "British Vogue"). Retrieved 3 November 2024. 14. ^ [a](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Dior_14-0) [b](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-Dior_14-1) Christian Dior, "Je suis couturier", [ELLE](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ELLE "ELLE"), 13 August 1951 15. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-15)* ["People: The Working Class"](https://content.time.com/time/subscriber/article/0,33009,888405-2,00.html). [Time](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time_Magazine "Time Magazine"). 2 August 1948. Retrieved 27 October 2024. 16. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-16) "Lelong Denies Reports of New Enterprise". Women's Wear Daily. 10 January 1950. 17. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-17) ["Sorcerer's Apprentice"](https://www.nytimes.com/books/99/10/17/specials/colette-delights.html). www.nytimes.com. 18. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-18) ["Evening Dress - 1925 (made)"](https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O72819/evening-dress-lucien-lelong/). [V\&A Museum](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V%26A_Museum "V&A Museum"). Retrieved 28 October 2024. 19. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-19) ["Parfums Lucien Lelong: The Peter Fink Collection"](https://asufidmmuseum.asu.edu/learn/articles/parfums-lucien-lelong-peter-fink-collection). [Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Design_%26_Merchandising_Museum "Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum"). Retrieved 28 October 2024. 20. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-20) ["Lucien Lelong"](https://collections.lacma.org/node/169357). [Los Angeles County Museum of Art](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Angeles_County_Museum_of_Art "Los Angeles County Museum of Art"). Retrieved 28 October 2024. 21. [^](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong#cite_ref-21) Lisa Stead (March 2021). "6 -"The Vivien Leigh room": Memorializing a local star". Reframing Vivien Leigh: Stardom, Gender, and the Archive. [Oxford University Press](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxford_University_Press "Oxford University Press"). pp. 184–204\. [ISBN](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISBN_\(identifier\) "ISBN (identifier)") [9780190906504](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780190906504 "Special:BookSources/9780190906504") . "The Fashion Museum holds Leigh's embroidered jacket from the 1940s made by Parisian couturier Lucien Lelong, one of her Balmain dresses, and a brown and black blouse." \| [v](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Grands_couturiers "Template:Grands couturiers") [t](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template_talk:Grands_couturiers "Template talk:Grands couturiers") [e](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Grands_couturiers "Special:EditPage/Template:Grands couturiers")Members of the [Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F%C3%A9d%C3%A9ration_de_la_Haute_Couture_et_de_la_Mode "Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode") \| \| \|---\|---\| \| Members \| [Adeline André](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adeline_Andr%C3%A9 "Adeline André") [Chanel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanel "Chanel") [Dior](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dior "Dior") [Julien Fournié](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julien_Fourni%C3%A9 "Julien Fournié") [Maurizio Galante](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Maurizio_Galante&action=edit&redlink=1 "Maurizio Galante (page does not exist)") [Jean Paul Gaultier](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Paul_Gaultier "Jean Paul Gaultier") [Givenchy](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Givenchy "Givenchy") [Bouchra Jarrar](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouchra_Jarrar "Bouchra Jarrar") [Alexis Mabille](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexis_Mabille "Alexis Mabille") [Maison Margiela](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maison_Margiela "Maison Margiela") [Stéphane Rolland](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St%C3%A9phane_Rolland "Stéphane Rolland") [Schiaparelli](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maison_Schiaparelli "Maison Schiaparelli") [Franck Sorbier](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franck_Sorbier "Franck Sorbier") [Giambattista Valli](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giambattista_Valli "Giambattista Valli") [Alexandre Vauthier](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexandre_Vauthier "Alexandre Vauthier") \| \| See also \| [List of grand couturiers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_grand_couturiers "List of grand couturiers") \| ‹ The [template](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Template "Help:Template") below ([Authority control (arts)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Authority_control_\(arts\) "Template:Authority control (arts)")) is being considered for deletion. See [templates for discussion](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Templates_for_discussion/Log/2025_August_22#Template:Authority_control_\(arts\) "Wikipedia:Templates for discussion/Log/2025 August 22") to help reach a consensus. › \| [Authority control databases](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Authority_control "Help:Authority control") [![Edit this at Wikidata](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/8/8a/OOjs_UI_icon_edit-ltr-progressive.svg/20px-OOjs_UI_icon_edit-ltr-progressive.svg.png)](https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2572377#identifiers "Edit this at Wikidata") \| \| \|---\|---\| \| International \| [VIAF](https://viaf.org/viaf/29797119) [GND](https://d-nb.info/gnd/134182596) \| \| National \| [United States](https://id.loc.gov/authorities/no2008164608) [France](https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb148080946) [BnF data](https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb148080946) \| \| Artists \| [Victoria](https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/explore/collection/artist/28689/) \| \| Other \| [SNAC](https://snaccooperative.org/ark:/99166/w6tx4kdh) \| ![](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:CentralAutoLogin/start?type=1x1&usesul3=1) Retrieved from "<https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Lelong&oldid=1279417514>" [Categories](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Category "Help:Category"): - [1889 births](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:1889_births "Category:1889 births") - [1958 deaths](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:1958_deaths "Category:1958 deaths") - [20th-century designers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:20th-century_designers "Category:20th-century designers") - [Fashion designers from Paris](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Fashion_designers_from_Paris "Category:Fashion designers from Paris") - [French perfumers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:French_perfumers "Category:French perfumers") - [HEC Paris alumni](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:HEC_Paris_alumni "Category:HEC Paris alumni") - [Knights of the Legion of Honour](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Knights_of_the_Legion_of_Honour "Category:Knights of the Legion of Honour") - [Recipients of the Croix de Guerre (France)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Recipients_of_the_Croix_de_Guerre_\(France\) "Category:Recipients of the Croix de Guerre (France)") - [Paris in World War II](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Paris_in_World_War_II "Category:Paris in World War II") Hidden categories: - [CS1 German-language sources (de)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:CS1_German-language_sources_\(de\) "Category:CS1 German-language sources (de)") - [Articles with short description](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description "Category:Articles with short description") - [Short description matches Wikidata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata "Category:Short description matches Wikidata") - [Use dmy dates from September 2020](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_September_2020 "Category:Use dmy dates from September 2020") - [Biography with signature](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Biography_with_signature "Category:Biography with signature") - [Articles with hCards](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hCards "Category:Articles with hCards") - [Pages with French IPA](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Pages_with_French_IPA "Category:Pages with French IPA") - [All articles with unsourced statements](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements "Category:All articles with unsourced statements") - [Articles with unsourced statements from November 2024](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_November_2024 "Category:Articles with unsourced statements from November 2024") - This page was last edited on 8 March 2025, at 12:49 (UTC). - Text is available under the [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Text_of_the_Creative_Commons_Attribution-ShareAlike_4.0_International_License "Wikipedia:Text of the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License"); additional terms may apply. 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